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Setting up Planer /Thicknesser

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beech1948

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So there I was yesterday trying to fit new blades into a recently acquired P/T. What a palaver...and time consuming. The manufacturers instructions were amusing and involved some fiddly little gadget about 18mm square..ha!? :twisted: .

So I started to think about some way to simplify this process. :idea: I think that the best approach might be to use two dial test indicators. First to get the projection right and then to make sure that as blades are adjusted at one end the other end does not move or if it does I know how much it has moved. :?

So my question is. What do you guys do or use. :wink: If a DTI then of what accuracy 0.01 or 0.001. I also wonder if more accuracy = better blade performance.? :?:
 
A

Anonymous

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Beech

When setting the blades, I just use a 12" steel ruler. I lay the ruler on it's edge on the outfeed table and rotate the cutter block slowly by hand until the ruler is just touched by it and moves about 0.5mm as the blade passes by. I keep adjusting until this 0.5mm movement is achieved.
Lock and repeat at the other end. Works a treat :wink:
 

Waka

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I use a marked up piece of stock and rotate the cutter head so that the movement of the wood matches the marks. Works fine but I fined that it;s time consuming to get it exact.

I have been toying with the idea of getting the magnet blocks from Rutlands, has anyone used these and are they worth the price?
 

CHJ

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Waka":2gqssay4 said:
I have been toying with the idea of getting the magnet blocks from Rutlands, has anyone used these and are they worth the price?
They would be my choice if I did not have a setting jig.

Almost identical to the more expensive accessories for the german thicknesser in this shed.

I am surprised that the better models are not supplied with setting gauges, my cheapo charnwood unit came with setting Jig.
 

devonwoody

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This is how I set up my p/thicknesser the two blocks of waste timber hold the aliminum ruler upright and the cutter drives the ruler along from the outfeed edge of its table and providing all measurements are in the range of 6 to 9mm and all same length of movement everything is unky dory.

 

beech1948

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Thanks all for your replies.

The method of using a ruler and a couple of wooden blocks is OK but its a bit slow and I am a bit concerned about accuracy.

I find that the problem for me is that when I adjust one end of the blade and snug it up the other end will raise up 0.002 to 0.007. So I end up with blades which are not parallel to the outfeed table and not parallel with each other.

Actual visible difference on planed wood is hard to see but I have this nagging doubt about squareness and accuracy...no I'm definitley not a perfectionist :oops: :roll: what ever mywife says
 

dance

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My planer/thicknesser (an EB HC260) had two holes on each blade and little matching mating studs on the blade 'roller'. Does this mean my P/T does not require this fine adjustment?
 

mailee

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OK Beech, try this one. If your tables are cast iron you can make a jig to set the blades. Take a piece of MDF the same size as the outfeed table and four rare earth magnets. Drill the MDF with a forstner bit at each corner of the mdf the same diameter as the magnet and to the exact depth of the magnet so it will sit flush with the face. Glue the magnets in place with epoxy. Now place the 'jig' on the outfeed table and slide it over the cutter block, then rotate the cutter block until the blade is held by the two magnets at top dead centre. Now the blade is level with the outfeed table along its length and can be nipped up. remove the jig and fully tighten the blade and then repeat for the other blades. HTH. :wink:
 

beech1948

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So there I was on the 21st of March 2005 setting up my planer blades. :p . This thread is 6 yrs old by now.

I did use the Dial test indicator method for a while. OK but a bit fiddley. In June of 2005 I used the method described above by mailee and found it OK, quicker etc. Then I found out that my infeed table was a bit out. Took me a week of shimming and experimentation to level it.

All works well now though.

regards
Alan
 

beech1948

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So there I was on the 21st of March 2005 setting up my planer blades. [ :p ] . This thread is 6 yrs old by now.

I did use the Dial test indicator method for a while. OK but a bit fiddley. In June of 2005 I used the method described above by mailee and found it OK, quicker etc. Then I found out that my infeed table was a bit out. Took me a week of shimming and experimentation to level it.

All works well now though.

regards
Alan
 

beaver

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Hi Beech
You might like to take a look at Axminsters deluxe planer knives setting jig,they got a very good review in the woodworker this month, it uses battery powered magnets to hold the knives at the correct height to the outfeed table whilst you tighten the nuts
 

devonwoody

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I had my P/T blade sharpened by Ian when it was Dragon Saws and I have not taken out the blade or replaced and it is now entering its third season. I keep my fingers crossed each session , its a lousy task setting up a replacement set and being happy with the outcome.

I do have a couple of nicks at one end but I never would machine anthing over 8" wide anyway.
 

knappers

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Not sure I get the advantage of those, is it just that they are cheap and disposable?

Si.
 
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