Setting Up My Bandsaw

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pollys13

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Hi,
I have a question, I'm trying to set the fence up accurately, properly. Looking at attached photo A. I've tightened up the nut at the end of the bandsaw fence so the rubber grommet makes firm contact with the slider rail. However the only way I can move the fence accurately. Is by grasping the middle of the fence with my left hand and holding the locking handle with my right.It then slides backwards and forwards. On tablesaw, I can move the fence backwards and forwards just by holding the fence handle with my right hand.There doesn't seem to be any adjustment at the handle end of the bandsaw fence unlike my tablesaw.
If I try to move the bandsaw fence just by using my right hand on the locking handle it pivots in to the guide rail and stops in position and fence is then askew.
Thanks.
 

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try it with the end rubber grommet loose. That far locator is only a guide and does not need to be a friction fit.
All the locking effect should be on the lever.
 
Agree with sunnybob re trying loosening the rubber grommit a bit. Don't know the make of the saw, but on my tablesaw you adjusted the front of the fence by rotating the handle so that the handle cam was tighter or looser when the handle was locked.
 
YorkshireMartin":fvq4evf8 said:
Have you got a small gap between the bottom side of fence and the table or not? Sounds like just friction to me.
I had a look, see attached photos, correct gap between main fence and table.The rip fence which is bolted to the main fence I noticed one side of it was in contact with the table, see photo. I removed it still problem with the main fence.
On my tablesaw, the rubber grommet isn't in contact with the guide rail. To move the fence I grasp the locking handle and the fence glides effortlessly and precisely along the track, and locks down precisely.

Perhaps my bandsaw fence is mean't to be moved along with both hands. Using manual says nothing about adjusting fence and Draper haven't come back to me. I unbolted the allen bolts under the handle thinking that might give me some play to move the handle a bit more along the fence, no joy. Attached some more photos.
Any ideas anybody?
Thanks.
 

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sunnybob":2egtpp6j said:
try it with the end rubber grommet loose. That far locator is only a guide and does not need to be a friction fit.
All the locking effect should be on the lever.
Hi, see my latest post on this.
 
paulm":92h7ai5k said:
Agree with sunnybob re trying loosening the rubber grommit a bit. Don't know the make of the saw, but on my tablesaw you adjusted the front of the fence by rotating the handle so that the handle cam was tighter or looser when the handle was locked.
The handle doesn't rotate.
 
Whats the model number of the saw? it might help to diagnose.

I had this exact problem on my first bandsaw years ago which was a proline or something, I forget. In any case, the solution was lubrication. Not saying thats the case here, but have you thought of trying some machine wax, it does sound like its sticking somewhere.
 
How does the handle lock the fence ? Do you push it down to lock ?

If so, and the handle doesn't rotate to tighten or loosen the locking then there may be a nut inside the fence that tightens or loosens the handle ? My guess is that the locking mechanism is a bit tight and causing the fence to bind even though the handle is unlocked.

Might be wrong though, could just be a poor design or poorly made, Draper aren't the best sadly !
 
YorkshireMartin":3qiz0kdx said:
Whats the model number of the saw? it might help to diagnose.

I had this exact problem on my first bandsaw years ago which was a proline or something, I forget. In any case, the solution was lubrication. Not saying thats the case here, but have you thought of trying some machine wax, it does sound like its sticking somewhere.
3 HP Draper 13766 depth of cut 250 mm I've waxed the bed, do you think I should apply some wax to the track that the handle runs along?
Thanks.
 
paulm":2r4yt3ev said:
How does the handle lock the fence ? Do you push it down to lock ?

If so, and the handle doesn't rotate to tighten or loosen the locking then there may be a nut inside the fence that tightens or loosens the handle ? My guess is that the locking mechanism is a bit tight and causing the fence to bind even though the handle is unlocked.

Might be wrong though, could just be a poor design or poorly made, Draper aren't the best sadly !
Yes, push down to lock. I think there is only the lock at the end with grommet on. The handle is bolted to the fence with the 4 allen bolts I mentioned earlier. I undid thinking I might have a bit of play to move the handle part down the fence but no go.
 
pollys13":35hqzbjr said:
YorkshireMartin":35hqzbjr said:
Whats the model number of the saw? it might help to diagnose.

I had this exact problem on my first bandsaw years ago which was a proline or something, I forget. In any case, the solution was lubrication. Not saying thats the case here, but have you thought of trying some machine wax, it does sound like its sticking somewhere.
3 HP Draper 13766 depth of cut 250 mm I've waxed the bed, do you think I should apply some wax to the track that the handle runs along?
Thanks.

Right, so this is not a cheap machine, not at all. If I'm looking at the right one, it's a about £1,000 and considered a professional model.

Therefore I would completely not accept this kind of minor niggle with the fence! I'm sorry, I'd assumed when you said Draper that this was something costing £100 or so. I didn't know they made machines at this sort of price range.

In any event, it's a solveable problem, just needs the cause pinning down, although any suggestions I might have had going forward, about filing components etc, just went out of the window. I really think Draper should be solving this for you.

Applying wax cannot do any harm I don't think but thats as far as I'd go, anything more serious than that and I'd get the retailer involved. Maybe even consider returning it.

These machines are made in China. It doesn't matter what brand name it is, up to about the £3k mark, it's all produce of China. As such, quality control varies. People have vastly differing experiences.

But it's still the retailer/draper's responsibility to sort this for you and in my humble opinion, you run the risk of spending far too much of your own time and energy sorting this yourself. Sorry pal, I just hate how companies so often get away with retailing sub standard products in any sector and expect the end user to sort out the mess the manufacturer created, really boils my blood.

I hope you get this sorted. Don't give them an inch of wiggle room. If it's marketed as a professional product it should work as such and having to piss about with the fence is not something a professional would expect to be doing, outside of initial/routine calibration.
 
I stick to my first post.
pics 3&4 show the sliding casting too far away from the table, being forced up into the air. That bearing in pic 2 appears to be the wrong way round unless the pic is sideways. The bearing should run along the table edge.
Loosen off the bearing at the rear of the table. If the fence still does not slide, call draper.
 
Hi Polly,
I would not mess around too much with the fence and revert back to the seller. Start off asking for help and explaining the issue by phone and writing. If you don't get any joy, quickly follow this up with a 14 day letter, plenty of examples on the internet which is a letter that states you want them to fix it within 14 days. If this does not resolve the problem, and assuming you bought it on a credit card contact your credit card company and ask them to resolve it. Acting quickly when you aware of the problem is the key. Messing around trying to resolve it yourself only places you in a less secure position legally for getting it resolved / money back. Good luck
 
YorkshireMartin":10w245l2 said:
pollys13":10w245l2 said:
YorkshireMartin":10w245l2 said:
Whats the model number of the saw? it might help to diagnose.



I hope you get this sorted. Don't give them an inch of wiggle room. If it's marketed as a professional product it should work as such and having to water about with the fence is not something a professional would expect to be doing, outside of initial/routine calibration.

This is a £1300+ bandsaw which I bought at a discounted price of £945 from an Ebay seller. The build quality is excellent, the fence however, I'm not sure if it working as it should.

As you say, I've paid for what I understood as being a professional quality machine and that includes a professional quality fence.
Pretty much ready to go straight out of the box..... off the palett, none of this fathing about.

When the machine was delivered I wasn't happy about the condition a knob part of the rise and fall mechanism had a gash in the finish. Several of the plastic stickers weren't stuck down properly. I went to the Ebay seller and told him, that if if I pay £945 for a new machine, I expect it to be in pristine, brand new, mint, perfect condition.

Actually the Ebay seller was very good about things. I didn't get shirty or anything. But said to forward my concerns to Draper, that I wanted a replacement part and tools and instructions on how to remove it and put the replacement in.Also suitable glue for the stickers and how to apply without bodging up the stickers. Anyway to and throwing with Draper went on for about 10 days. I also added I wanted a partial cash refund for the inconvenience and not being able to use the bandsaw. Draper said didn't have a replacement as machine being discontinued Draper wouldn't have any of it.( The same machine is still currently available from several retailers ) I bought the machine earlier this year 26th April I've been busy with other woodwork stuff and only just mounted the table on the saw. In the end Draper agreed to give me 3 new Draper bandsaw blades, ones I thought might come in useful and 3 new Draper chrome vanadium spanners. They wouldn't budge, so I accepted, the retailer/Draper did offer to have the saw returned and give me a full refund. I didn't want to return the saw as the only other close in its class was a Charnwood, think it was 3 HP and 300 mm cut and more money.

But I don't like the colour scheme of Charnwoods stuff and...... anyway doesn't match my T shirt :)
See my other post tonight about update on trying to get the fence up.

As long as it cuts OK and get the fence sorted out I think I'll be a happy bunny.
 
sunnybob":32mpfkb9 said:
I stick to my first post.
pics 3&4 show the sliding casting too far away from the table, being forced up into the air. That bearing in pic 2 appears to be the wrong way round unless the pic is sideways. The bearing should run along the table edge.
Loosen off the bearing at the rear of the table. If the fence still does not slide, call draper.
Hi,
I think one of the pictures I took was of the fence off the table upside down to more clearly show the mechanism.
I attach some more pictures of the grommet.

With the handle unlocked and if I tighten the grommet to make contact with the slider rail.
If I then try to move the fence it does move quite easily just by my hand on the locking handle. Though to do this I have to push the handle toward the table.Though the fence is still slightly askew moving backwards and forwards. If I tighten up the grommet too much then the fence seems to bind and the handle pivots toward the table.
As I say on my tablesaw I just move the fence holding the handle and it glides effortlessly backwards and forwards precisely. No having to push the handle into toward the table.
 

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Uum :)
After reading about the naff, useless quality of the fences that come with bandsaws, unless they are really expensive top end ones.
I've preety much decided to junk the fence and get A Kreg precision fence.
 
Asking around, I understand that very often the fence that comes with bandsaw. Is more often or not sub standard unless you get a really expensive bandsaw. Mine is a Draper 3 HP with a 16 inch throat, 250 mm depth of cut they describe it as a professional bandsaw. For a professional bandsaw discounted from around £1300 to £945 I expect to get a professional precision fence to go with it.
So am a bit cheesed off not having one. The quality build of the machine is excellent, the only issue is the naff fence. ( Unless I'm going to have some nasty unexpected surprises when I start using it )

Anyway, earlier today I bought a Kreg precision bandsaw fence, and the following to use on it. Kreg precision micro adjuster, Kreg swing stop and a Kreg 7 inch resaw guide.
Peter.
 
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