Setting distance to fence on router table

[LancsRick]

So I'd say that I'm a very basic freehand router user, with my main saving grace being that I know I'm a novice. Whilst I do have a table, I really don't know anything about getting the most from it.

One operation that feels like it should be simple but baffles me is how to easily set the distance from fence to the edge of a cut accurately. Making some spacer jigs would be very easy, but I can't believe that's the best way to set up a table. As such, I always cut dados with an edge and pair of rods.

Let's use an example - I'm going to cut a dado in a piece of wood 33mm from the edge of the workpiece, with a 12mm cutter. How would I set that up without a 33mm insert between the bit and the fence?

Enlightenment welcomed!

Thanks.

 

[MusicMan]

Measuring to the inside of a cutter can be tricky. An easy way is to set it up as near as you can, then take trial cuts on a pice of scrap and measure them.

 

[Adam9453]

I'd recommend the digital depth gauge that trend sell. It makes setting the height of the bit of the fence position very easy and accurate

 

[custard]

I wouldn't cut dados with a router table. I'd use a user made jig (a bit like a T-Square) where the router bit is run straight through the wooden fence that sits against the long grain edge of the workpiece. That little cut out will give you an exact position for the cutter which you can line up against your marks. Furthermore by sticking to the same cutter in conjunction with this jig you can repeat the process over and over again, you can even use it to cut dados wider than the router bit by bumping it along the workpiece and making a second cut.

Using a router table for dados is possible, but you have to solve several additional problems to get there. How would you cut a dado in the centre of 2 metre long board for example? You can do it, but you'd need a sliding fence that's set precisely 90 degrees to the fence's axis of travel, possible but not exactly simple.

Good luck!

 

[Wuffles]

I wouldn't cut dados with a router table. I'd use a user made jig (a bit like a T-Square) where the router bit is run straight through the wooden fence that sits against the long grain edge of the workpiece. That little cut out will give you an exact position for the cutter which you can line up against your marks. Furthermore by sticking to the same cutter in conjunction with this jig you can repeat the process over and over again, you can even use it to cut dados wider than the router bit by bumping it along the workpiece and making a second cut.

Using a router table for dados is possible, but you have to solve several additional problems to get there. How would you cut a dado in the centre of 2 metre long board for example? You can do it, but you'd need a sliding fence that's set precisely 90 degrees to the fence's axis of travel, possible but not exactly simple.

Good luck!

Totally this, so many uses if you build an adjustable one.

 

[ComfortablyNumb]

http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... uge+dkb100

I use this for setting spindle moulders and router table. Lovely bit of kit for £15

 

[LancsRick]

I wouldn't cut dados with a router table. I'd use a user made jig (a bit like a T-Square) where the router bit is run straight through the wooden fence that sits against the long grain edge of the workpiece. That little cut out will give you an exact position for the cutter which you can line up against your marks. Furthermore by sticking to the same cutter in conjunction with this jig you can repeat the process over and over again, you can even use it to cut dados wider than the router bit by bumping it along the workpiece and making a second cut.

Using a router table for dados is possible, but you have to solve several additional problems to get there. How would you cut a dado in the centre of 2 metre long board for example? You can do it, but you'd need a sliding fence that's set precisely 90 degrees to the fence's axis of travel, possible but not exactly simple.

Good luck!

Totally this, so many uses if you build an adjustable one.

I've already built one of these (not adjustable), just thought I must be missing something!

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Myfordman]

Ruler to set an initial cut followed by a test cut and tweak as needed. To tweak, loosen one end of the fence slightly and tap it about twice the amount of the error. Lock and re-test.

hth

Of course we all know that dados should be cut on the table saw with a stacked dado head.

 

[LancsRick]

Ruler to set an initial cut followed by a test cut and tweak as needed. To tweak, loosen one end of the fence slightly and tap it about twice the amount of the error. Lock and re-test.

hth

Of course we all know that dados should be cut on the table saw with a stacked dado head.

Depending on what it is it either gets cut with my freehand round and T-jig at the moment (need to read up on adjustable ones!), or through many cuts on my RAS. Without a dado stack. So many, many cuts .

 

[Wuffles]

Ruler to set an initial cut followed by a test cut and tweak as needed. To tweak, loosen one end of the fence slightly and tap it about twice the amount of the error. Lock and re-test.

hth

Of course we all know that dados should be cut on the table saw with a stacked dado head.

Depending on what it is it either gets cut with my freehand round and T-jig at the moment (need to read up on adjustable ones!), or through many cuts on my RAS. Without a dado stack. So many, many cuts .

Don't let the word "adjustable" throw you, it's probably what you have now just my interpretation of it, or not. I just mean one you can set for width without too many heavy bushing calculations

 

[LancsRick]

Ah, I did the overkill version. 30mm slot to take a perfect fit of the largest Bush I've got, all other cutters then run central. Overkill but simple!

 

[Wuffles]

Ah, I did the overkill version. 30mm slot to take a perfect fit of the largest Bush I've got, all other cutters then run central. Overkill but simple!

Thinking outside the box there Rick. Like it.