seperating morse taper
- Thread starter sunnybob
- Start date
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Gerry
Established Member
If there is no hole for a drift then it should have a built in ejector. Bump the handle upwards against the stop to eject the taper.
Gerry
Gerry
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Drill-Chuck-Rem ... 0480357587
At that price? I dont think so.
looks like I need to get creative.
At that price? I dont think so.
looks like I need to get creative.
Myfordman
AKA 9Fingers
Are you sure it actually has a Morse taper arbour? I feel it is highly unlikely that it does if there is no obvious ejector.
Leaving out the MT is one of the many ways the Chinese have taken cost out of their machines.
Using folding wedges to remove the chuck will possibly leave you with a short male B series taper. These are the same angle as MT and fit Chinese chucks only. UK/US/EU chucks mainly use Jacobs tapers (JT).
Leaving out the MT is one of the many ways the Chinese have taken cost out of their machines.
Using folding wedges to remove the chuck will possibly leave you with a short male B series taper. These are the same angle as MT and fit Chinese chucks only. UK/US/EU chucks mainly use Jacobs tapers (JT).
Its this model
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... ill-101925
According to the spec its a B16 spindle taper.
means nothing to me.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... ill-101925
According to the spec its a B16 spindle taper.
means nothing to me.
woodbrains
Established Member
sunnybob":103q4e1r said:
Hello,
This is the B taper that myfordman just mentioned. If you get the chuck off it will have the female taper in it and the male B16 taper will be sticking down from your drill arbour.
Why do you need to remove it?
Mike
Not so much need, as want to.
I used the adjustable depth stop the other day, and was surprised to find that the holes were different depths to the stop measurement.
So I investigated and the depth stop is mounted on a plastic ring, that flexes.
Being used to solid stops, I pull the arm down to a firm stop, and this plastic thing will deflect anything up to 3 mm, being different every time depending on force used.
So i want to reinforce that with a a metal plate, but cant get it off untill the chuck is removed.
When I assembled the press, the chuck had a male taper, which I tapped into the quill with a block of wood and a hammer.
I used the adjustable depth stop the other day, and was surprised to find that the holes were different depths to the stop measurement.
So I investigated and the depth stop is mounted on a plastic ring, that flexes.
Being used to solid stops, I pull the arm down to a firm stop, and this plastic thing will deflect anything up to 3 mm, being different every time depending on force used.
So i want to reinforce that with a a metal plate, but cant get it off untill the chuck is removed.
When I assembled the press, the chuck had a male taper, which I tapped into the quill with a block of wood and a hammer.
CHJ
Established Member
How long was the male taper? 20-30mm or 70-100mm if the former it's not Morse and the taper is probably machined integral with the Chuck body. The wedges are the way to go.sunnybob":10o8cx31 said:
from memory, must be the longer of your options, but I didnt take much notice at the time.
Wedges are going to be a problem because the plastic ring that holds the depth stop is lower than the metal surround. I suspect if i use wedges the plastic will get destroyed.
I've emailed axminster for their advice. Luckily its not urgent so I shall have to wait till tomorrow some time.
Wedges are going to be a problem because the plastic ring that holds the depth stop is lower than the metal surround. I suspect if i use wedges the plastic will get destroyed.
I've emailed axminster for their advice. Luckily its not urgent so I shall have to wait till tomorrow some time.
Bob Graham
Established Member
I remembered seeing this video on youtube, I don't know if it will help you or not. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hi6JlzDly2I
Robbo3
Established Member
Chuck removal wedges are about £6 from Arc Euro. Delivery is POA for the EEC
- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... dges---NEW
- http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue ... dges---NEW
I've worked around the problem for today. I loosened the plastic ring and fitted a piece of 4 mm ali across it to stiffen it. Complete fail. The plastic ring is so pliable that it still flexes around the actual collar. Another example of making something down to such a low price that it is no longer fit for use. Alloy rather than plastic would be fine, but obviously cost another 50 pence.
I dont have the machinery to make a metal collar, so I shall just have to live with what I have.
I dont have the machinery to make a metal collar, so I shall just have to live with what I have.
If it is a simple ring collar, I'd be happy to make it for you if you can provide a sketch with accurate dimensions. It's a quick job on a metal lathe. Once you get your wedges (which is the right solution for getting the taper out) that should be easy to do.
Keith
Keith
Keith, a very kind offer.
Its a ring, but with complications. I will get a picture and measurements to you once I remove the chuck.
I'll wait for axminsters reply (should be monday) before getting physical with it.
Its a ring, but with complications. I will get a picture and measurements to you once I remove the chuck.
I'll wait for axminsters reply (should be monday) before getting physical with it.
Bob
OK that's fine.
Keith
OK that's fine.
Keith
Robbo3
Established Member
According to the manual (page 19) the quill has slots for a drift. On mine (not Axminster) you have to lower the chuck to see them.
Manual - http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf
On the product page they show 2 manuals. I didn't investigate any differences or whether it's just the Axminster idiots duplicating them.
- http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... ill-101925
Manual - http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf
On the product page they show 2 manuals. I didn't investigate any differences or whether it's just the Axminster idiots duplicating them.
- http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... ill-101925
Hi,
My cheapo Challenge drill has exactly the same problem with the addition that I managed to break the plastic collar that held the stud that made the depth stop. My solution was to bend a strip of metal, attach the stud with a nut and fix it to the collar with a stainless steel jubilee clip. Its not perfect but only flexes by about 1mm now. Photo of botch attached. I've given up trying to get the chuck out.
My cheapo Challenge drill has exactly the same problem with the addition that I managed to break the plastic collar that held the stud that made the depth stop. My solution was to bend a strip of metal, attach the stud with a nut and fix it to the collar with a stainless steel jubilee clip. Its not perfect but only flexes by about 1mm now. Photo of botch attached. I've given up trying to get the chuck out.
