Selecting & Sourcing Timber For Legs Of My First Workbench

[pollys13]

http://www.instructables.com/id/Buildin ... workbench/
In the plans he uses construction grade 4 x 4 timber. Wickes or B&Q don't carry 4x4 I then thought fencing 4 x 4 posts but the builders merchants I looked at. All they have is 4 x 4 pressure treated and rough sawn. Browsing I found this site, https://www.jastimber.co.uk/4x4-pse-red ... x100mm-par
I want to ensure the timber I get is perfectly flat and will not have or develop any splits, shakes, free from defects and is kiln dried. I can if needs be dress rough timber on my planer. Also the timber cleanly cut to the lengths I want unless doing this significantly adds to cost, otherwise will cut myself.
If possible thought would be nice to get timber to go with the Beech worktop I have.
If I can get matching, complementary timber then will get the same for the stretchers.
Or might be cheaper to stain the legs to match if the timber is suitable to do this. I have Bob Flexners finishing books
Can anyone suggest suitable timber for the legs at reasonable cost from a reputable timber merchant?I'm in Wiltshire so if can collect can avoid delivery charge
Thanks,
Peter.

 

[novocaine]

laminate 2 pieces with opposing grain direction. best way to get a stable and very strong leg. also allows you to cheat on the stretcher mortises.

 

[Jacob]

You need a good stockist who can supply 100x 100 "green split centre free" sawn redwood. This is kept for newel posts mainly, and in other sizes.

 

[pollys13]

laminate 2 pieces with opposing grain direction. best way to get a stable and very strong leg. also allows you to cheat on the stretcher mortises.

Yes I've heard about that laminating technique with the grain. Beech is straight grained though Oak I think can be all over the place?

 

[Woody2Shoes]

+1 for centre-free redwood (i.e. pinus sylvestris - "unsorted" is the best grade) you'll need to decide whether or not you want planed (PAR/PSE) or rough sawn (a bit cheaper but you'll obviously have to plane and true it up yourself which will lose you a few mm all round). The absence of the 'pith' from the centre of the tree is what helps to keep the timber stable.

I've found Sydenhams very good in the past - I see that they have several branches in Wiltshire (I assume most of the larger branches will have what you're looking for) - I'm sure if you explain what you're after they will be helpful:

http://www.sydenhams.co.uk/branches/default.aspx

Cheers, W2S

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Also: http://www.sydenhams.co.uk/sawn-joinery.aspx

 

[pollys13]

+1 for centre-free redwood (i.e. pinus sylvestris - "unsorted" is the best grade) you'll need to decide whether or not you want planed (PAR/PSE) or rough sawn (a bit cheaper but you'll obviously have to plane and true it up yourself which will lose you a few mm all round). The absence of the 'pith' from the centre of the tree is what helps to keep the timber stable.

I've found Sydenhams very good in the past - I see that they have several branches in Wiltshire (I assume most of the larger branches will have what you're looking for) - I'm sure if you explain what you're after they will be helpful:

http://www.sydenhams.co.uk/branches/default.aspx

Cheers, W2S

Spot on, thanks for that

 

[pollys13]

Sydenhams couldn't do, as getting from their mill in Poole wouldn't be viable They said try A1 Grade Timber, contacted them and have correct grade/type of Redwood £9+vat per metre. Only 9 miles away will collect in car tomorrow.