Secret fixing for a hanging shelf unit

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colinc

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Hi, I was wondering if anyone has an ideas how best to hang a shelf unit I'm making? It's a copy of an elegant Shaker design with two vertical and five horizontals, about 42 inches hign and 20 inches wide. The wood is all 1/2 inch thick and the widest shelf 5 inches. The construction is sliding dovetails. It is not going to be carrying any great weight.

The drawing I'm working from suggests brass plates screwed to a shelf, but I think they will be an eyesore on such a simple tidy piece, and I wanted to hide the fixings.

A brass plates with a keyhole slot, let into the back of the sides would be preferred but because they are so slender I dont think that's practicable.

Does anyone have a pet scheme to recommend? I was wondering about using a square hook on the wall and routing a 1/4 inch slot in each vertical with a part-depth infill in it that engages the hook.

Alternatively, is there anything available commercially?

Suggestions appreciated as I want to prepare the sides before I glue it up if I can.

Colin
 
colinc":1qi0l59j said:
A brass plates with a keyhole slot, let into the back of the sides would be preferred but because they are so slender I dont think that's practicable.Colin

I think it would be ok with the keyholes, you would need to put 2 or even 3 on each vertical to ensure it will take the weight.
 
Hi Colin
What about drilling a simple hole into the shelf back's at an angle, for to fit onto a "coat peg" type thing fixed into the wall. The wallpeg should be angled upwards say 10 degree's and the hole in the shelf drilled to a matching angle, when the shelf is placed on it, simple gravity acting on an inclined plane will hold it to the wall?? You say it wont have to carry a lot of weight so some arrangement like that might wprk?? Just a thought as to what I might do, but I'm one for cheap and simple solutions :wink: :lol:

PS the holes would be drilled in the vertiacl uprights not the actual "shelves" as such :lol:
 
Brass is easy enough to work that you could make your own key hole plates to fit on the uprights. If they are let in to fitted recesses and screwed in place, I think a pair of them would be plenty strong. If the shelves and uprights are all only 1/2" thick, the shelf unit can't be very large nor very heavy. You won't have any trouble with two plates.
 
All good ideas so far, I'd say.

You could also use a French Cleat- a bevelled board screwed to the wall and a mating one joining the two uprights of your shelves. Strong and neat.

If you want to go with glass plates you could consider fixing them to the uprights but so they are on the inside face, not the outside (assuming you have no back to this). They will be very unobtrusive.
 
waterhead37":1deji1q2 said:
Colin,

I have hung quite heavy shelf units on screws after routing keyhole slots in the uprights (no plate)

Chris, I like that idea but the sides are 12.7 mm (1/2 inch) and the smallest cutter I can find is Wealden's T1550 http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Keyhole_253.html which is 9.5mm dia at the base. I'm a bit nervous of putting it through the side. What do you think?

Certainly a good idea on other projects though, thanks.

Colin
 
Colin,
Have just measured my smallest cutter - it is also 9.5mm which is indeed a bit tight in 12.7mm sides. Not impossible however and I would try in a piece of scrap and then, if you are happy with the result, go for it.

You can always cover any breakthrough with a little piece of veneer as an accent. :wink:
 
Thanks Chris,

I think I'll buy one and see, it'll come in useful even if I don't succeed on this.

Thanks also inspector, the links are interesting.

I have almost decided upon a radical solution which is to actually screw thro the frame and cover the holes with buttons. My camera's flat but I'll show you what I mean tomorrow.

I have decided that it needs to be a restraining fixing, not just hooked on, there's a few valuable things going on it and the cleaner's a bit brutal at times!

Colin
 

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