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KingAether

Eternal noob
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Dorset.
Afternoon,
I know there are plenty of threads about it, but of course as time goes on the market changes!
My current tablesaw is a bit of a beast, a quiet 3hp dewalt with a straight fence *but* but being an older contractors model it has no dust extraction, no mitre slots and once i gets to 40~ degrees it starts to push on the table and the arbor seizes up
I'm looking around to upgrade it among other things and curious what names to keep and eye for! Im not 100% on a budget but likely no more than £400~...

I'm also thinking about the option of finding a cast iron cabinet-saw thats been gutted or broken to transplant; has anyone done something similar?
 
I've just been offered a Wadkin AGS 10" for what seems a really good price; most of the threads i can find about them are asking questions about parts etc.. Good saw ? Likely less powerful than what i have if its even 1ph but much more solid and sturdy for sure
 
Motor power seems hard to compare in my experience, just based on ratings. I have an old Multico table saw and the motor is allegedly less powerful than the Draper cast iron one I bought for temporary use. In reality the Multico is a LOT more powerful.

Wadkin make lovely machines that last forever. Wallace, of this forum, is an expert on them.
 
Motor power seems hard to compare in my experience, just based on ratings. I have an old Multico table saw and the motor is allegedly less powerful than the Draper cast iron one I bought for temporary use. In reality the Multico is a LOT more powerful.

Wadkin make lovely machines that last forever. Wallace, of this forum, is an expert on them.

I guess that’s a mixture of blade momentum, gear/belt ratio and the torque/speed characteristic of the actual motor, would make for an interesting spider diagram

Aidan
 
Great saw, many of us on here have one. Bearings are easy to come by but everything else is like hen's teeth. You can break it down and move it pretty easily and it's easy to strip down to get any bits moving correctly that you need to. There is a manual on the internet shown an exploded view.

There is a newer and older model that differ in how the arbor is attached. One has a detachable housing and one is part of the main casting. If you're buying one give all the castings a good check over for cracks as they would be hard to repair.

They are often missing the extension tables, as is mine, and these are expensive to replace so if you need/plan to break down big sheets, you'll need them or to build the saw into a larger table etc.
 
Blade momentum and gear:belt is another reason for the upgrade actually.. The bearings in the dewalt are incredible for its age; i know because it doesn't have a break and spins for 2+ minuites after power down. I assume its because its a direct drive to some extent.
I believe it to be an older model but im still waiting on some pictures or to be able to see it, apparently its been kept well and in good condition. Not sure about extension tables but to be honest, i don't have the room what so ever.
I originally put the feelers out in search of a cabinet for a transplant for my current one but might just call it a trade out for this one, its only 2HP 3ph compared to the current 2.2kw but a vfd should be easy enough to add for now
 
I've just been offered a Wadkin AGS 10" for what seems a really good price; most of the threads i can find about them are asking questions about parts etc.. Good saw ? Likely less powerful than what i have if its even 1ph but much more solid and sturdy for sure
If it is complete (ie with fence, guard, riving knife) and if the tilt and rise/fall work (backlash allowed) then snap their hands off. I'm another that has one and it is marvellous. Mine is 3phase 2.2 HP driven off a single to 3 phase 415V converter, from a 13A plug, and it is great. If the one you are looking at is only 1 HP though, I would budget to change the motor as I think that would be underpowered.

The other important difference between the old/new models is the riving knife. Later models have a true riving knife, that tilts, rises and falls with the blade. The older ones have what is more properly called a splitter, which tilts with the blade but does not rise and fall with it. There is enough adjustment length and space to get it close to the bade manually, but that's a bit of a faff. Mine is the older one, but I am still hanging on to it.
 
If it is complete (ie with fence, guard, riving knife) and if the tilt and rise/fall work (backlash allowed) then snap their hands off. I'm another that has one and it is marvellous. Mine is 3phase 2.2 HP driven off a single to 3 phase 415V converter, from a 13A plug, and it is great. If the one you are looking at is only 1 HP though, I would budget to change the motor as I think that would be underpowered.

The other important difference between the old/new models is the riving knife. Later models have a true riving knife, that tilts, rises and falls with the blade. The older ones have what is more properly called a splitter, which tilts with the blade but does not rise and fall with it. There is enough adjustment length and space to get it close to the bade manually, but that's a bit of a faff. Mine is the older one, but I am still hanging on to it.

Thank you, very informative and helpful post, I'm expecting to get to see it today. I plan to run it on a VFD which is added cost but im hoping to not have to spend more than that, covering the cost of the saw by selling my own so if it looks like ill have to change the motor ill probably leave it behind but it is 2hp so should be fine. Ill likely buy it before getting to selling the current one so i can give them a test and see how it does side by side, its 1hp less than im used to but belt driven induction motor vs direct drive universal motor so im sure there is some differences there too
 
Thanks. The other plus about the right VFD is that you can program it to soft start and also to stop in less than 10s (mine takes about 8). Better safety (since most saw accidents used to occur when the saw is switched off and slowing down) and never any startup surges. I think the AGS will take up to 3 HP.
 
Might have to wait until tomorrow to see it now due to weather but apparently its the older type as it has a splitter not a riving-knife but it has all the parts inc extension tables.
How much would people consider is a good price for one, inc the tables, splitter, fence, etc. Apparently just needs a clean down!
 
Mine was £200 a few years ago, which I thought was a very good price (not including the VFD), especially since it needed just a cleanup. It was badly advertised on eBay so I think I was lucky. All I have spent on it was the VFD (£400 for a 415 V 3PH 3HP drive) and new blades. If for some reason I had to buy another, I would certainly go to £400. What are you being asked?
 
118728867_2775337719369716_4219874324044535404_n.jpg
This is the motor; am i right in saying it would need 240v dual option to wire right for a VFD, or is it the 380v ?
 
I think it would need the full voltage option, but MyfordMan is the person to ask. However, if you go to Drives Direct as I did, the engineer Dave is very helpful on which product you would need and how to wire it. [email protected] and send him the pic of the motor plate.
 
I'm back to looking for recommendations of other names to keep an eye for. It was in good outward condition but was not all that in the end, just a cabinet, top, side tables and motor but no raise/lower or tilting mechanism, fence, rails, adjustment wheels, etc 😬
 
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That is a fixed star motor so you can either buy one of drives direct highly expensive off the shelf custom modified inverters of Pick open the star point, convert to Delta and use a standard inverter for less than half the money (typically)
 
I'm back to looking for recommendations of other names to keep an eye for. It was in good outward condition but was not all that in the end, just a cabinet, top, side tables and motor but no raise/lower or tilting mechanism, fence, rails, adjustment wheels, etc 😬
Only good for spares then. Someone might want the side tables, but not worth that much. Bad luck.
 
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