Seasoning wood in a breathable membrane or environmesh tent?

[RichardG]

Most of the wood I’ve tried to season for turning always seems to get infested with beetle or wood worm. I’ve now started to remove the bark in the hope this will make the wood less attractive to the the little pippers. My wife uses something called environmesh which is a very fine net which she places over her veggies to keep off pests so you don’t have to use any spray. I was thinking that perhaps a tent made of this would effectively seal the wood from any insect attack? My mind wandered further and thought, if I used breathable roofing membrane then it would not only keep the insects out but would also keep the water off as well?

Is this a totally made idea, will the wood just get mouldy instead?

Edit: pippers = b u g g e r s, I’ve been censored

 

[Cabinetman]

You can’t use that word! We’re all children on here, I hate that censorship! Sorry rant over.
I suspect the b uggers are already in the sapwood, but it would be interesting to find out if that mesh stuff works, Aren’t you keeping your bits of wood in the dry anyway?

 

[Myfordman]

I think you will be best served by a cover larger than the plan area of the stack but open sides to encourage airflow.
Mesh etc will considerably affect airflow and slow down the process. Certainly remove bark and some would say any sapwood too as that is more digestible by the bu88ers.
Alternatively bring it into a drying shed with controlled airflow and a dehumidifier.

 

[RichardG]

I use various improvised covers, tarp, spare piece of conservatory roofing, corrugated iron sheet, under the oil tank! Perhaps I should invest a bit of time and make something more permanent? Our firewood which I dry from a small coppice always gets totally infested despite being in a proper log store with vented sides and doors. I now only bring in enough wood that we‘ll burn in the evening as I don’t like leaving it in the house, right pain! Never had a problem when I lived nearer the sea….

 

[Cabinetman]

I think you will be best served by a cover larger than the plan area of the stack but open sides to encourage airflow.
Mesh etc will considerably affect airflow and slow down the process. Certainly remove bark and some would say any sapwood too as that is more digestible by the bu88ers.
Alternatively bring it into a drying shed with controlled airflow and a dehumidifier.

The drying shed idea works well I have one and it produces a huge amount of water from the dehumidifier, but for pieces for turning you will have to be very careful or they will split.
Woodworm normally emerge in the summer months so I wouldn’t worry too much about your firewood in the house in the winter. Ian

 

[Myfordman]

I'm not a turner but an experienced friend who is, roughs out green wood and slathers the blanks with pva and dries the wood and seems not to have splitting problems.

 

[Inspector]

You might consider a vacuum kiln to dry your roughed bowls. They can take them from green to dry in a week or less with few if any defects. Here is a little book that tells you how. Vacuum Kiln Drying for Woodworkers: How to Build and Use a Vacuum Kiln for Drying Wood: Salesin, Joshua: 9781546686125: Books - Amazon.ca Depending on how much you turn you should be able to dry the stock faster than you can use it up.
I have a 10 gallon pressure paint pot I may convert for the job. No bugs to worry about in our climate.......assuming you can find wood to turn.

The cloth your wife uses is known as row cover here. It breaths a lot better than the roofing membrane you're thinking of using. I would be tempted to make a metal shed with enough openings or open sides and cover them with the cloth. You could have storm shutters you can close when there might be a lot of high wind. The cloth will only last a season or two but it isn't like it is difficult to work with or expensive. You would have to consider the environmental aspect of the product but the energy used in a vacuum kiln is in there too.

Pete