Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I have a Gransfors small carpenters axe with a very straight and thin edge, more like a very wide chisel.
Scribing to a stone wall
- Thread starter Prizen
- Start date
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Spear & Jackson no.4 hatchet? Something you might see Ray Mears mucking about with. (Seriously off topic now, so we are).
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
What's the difference between an axe and a hatchet? 
They're spelt different.What's the difference between an axe and a hatchet?
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
A hatchet is designed for single handed use.
I never thought I'd find myself admiring another man's chopper
hikingcharlotte
New member
Following this thread, would you then fill any gaps where the wood doesnt fit snuggly - and what type of filler would you use?
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
Probably look a lot nicer if you get a scribe as near as you can and leave it at that. Filler more likely to highlight probs than hide them. Depends on the details.
I'm installing new kitchen units with solid block beech worktops into our utility room which is a converted galley kitchen built in the 19th Century as a 'modernisation' i.e. built using ironstone stuck on the back of the 300-year-old stone cottage. There isn't a straight wall or right angle in it, so I have had to scribe every unit, side panel and two worktops. I bought a Saker Scriber which has been a godsend for the worktops and units.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09W8RC9FP/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item
I needed infills to fill in gaps in three end panels where the wall was bowed beyond the width of the panels, and this was a bit trickier and needed several re-scribes as outlined above by others. I have to say that the scriber has been excellent but there are many other cheaper techniques. The two worktops came out well but note the gap in the end panel - it looks straight in the picture but is as wobbly as they come and then other side is much worse, up to 30mm gap.
Have a look at @petermillard excellent videos on the subject
hope this is useful
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09W8RC9FP/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_TE_item
I needed infills to fill in gaps in three end panels where the wall was bowed beyond the width of the panels, and this was a bit trickier and needed several re-scribes as outlined above by others. I have to say that the scriber has been excellent but there are many other cheaper techniques. The two worktops came out well but note the gap in the end panel - it looks straight in the picture but is as wobbly as they come and then other side is much worse, up to 30mm gap.
Have a look at @petermillard excellent videos on the subject
hope this is useful
AJB Temple
Finely figured
I'm surprised that some trades people here (exc. Jacob) have never seen a carpenters axe on site. Nor an adze. I have a really old and well used granfors axe, which was given to me as a "framing axe" of "rigging axe" along with a small adze by a guy who used to do a lot of oak framing. Extremely useful when you are erecting a green oak frame and need to do a bit of trimming without getting down from the structure. The rigging axe is lightweight and small, and has gradually acquired an offset bevel. I always have it to hand when doing green oak work. The adze is fantastic for stropping off bark, for doing scallop cuts and trimming up curves.
I can understand that anyone doing softwood roofing would be bemused though.
I can understand that anyone doing softwood roofing would be bemused though.
rogxwhit
Established Member
Not quite the same thing though - which you'd know if you stopped to think - in that case all the discrepancies will be hidden by the plaster as it's run up to the work. I sense that in the current case the whole face of the scribe will be visible. And I think it's been dealt with above how to deal with it. You scribe from the stonework in the plane of where the outer face of the work is going to be, and cut that as precisely as you can, then undercut behind that plane as appropriate.
What tools you use are up to you - it's only the result that counts.
rogxwhit
Established Member
That doesn't relate to the current enquiry - you're spouting off.
rogxwhit
Established Member
What on earth has a block plane to do with scribing to stonework?
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
It is the same thing but not covered by plaster, as I describe above.
Quite handy following on from the axe. Use it with the workpiece on a saw stool with your knee on it and use the plane down across the edge. Just one of those things you might discover if you do enough site work.
AJB Temple
Finely figured
I am deeply sorry and apologise profusely. I have not been called a spout before but shall quickly turn myself off as offending people like you is heart wrenching. The thread had turned in a axe direction as OP had solved his problem but I am mortified that I had not understood that you wanted to keep talking about scribing. It should be forbidden to deviate even slightly from the original topic. But thank you for your expertise and constructive contribution. Oh yes.
rogxwhit
Established Member
Good for the highs - not much use in the hollows ... ps I could do without the news about your knees :-(. Or your stools :-(((.
Had he? I missed that. :-(
There's a first, then!
Jacob
Pint of bass, porkpie, and packet of crisps please
Yes. Well spotted. Congratulations.
A cambered blade helps.
rogxwhit
Established Member
Of course! That's the default, isn't it?
