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Anonymous

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Has anyone done a tradeoff evaluation between the Lie-Nielsen 85 Cabinet Makers Scraper, Lie-Nielsen 112 Large Scraping Plane or the Veritas Scraping Plane? I am leaning toward the Lie-Nielsen 112 and am looking for any sage advice on these Planes from anyone who owns one or has used any of the above.

Thanks

Roger
 

MikeW

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Hi Roger, welcome to the forum!

I do own the LN 112 and have used the LN 85. But...

Here's some links to get you started. A couple are from the search here at UK Forum. First on the list is one from our members, Alf, who does wonderful reviews. The second is also a forum member, Philly, who had a bit of a problem at first. Included because it is helpful regardless.

The 4th one down may be the best as far as a comparison goes. Look for rfeeser (bob Feeser) reply part way down.

Have fun. Mike

LV Scraper Plane: Alf's review

LV Scraper Plane: Philly

LN 85 vs. Veritas Scraper plane

Stanley 112 vs LN 85

Which scraper, LN 112, 85 or Veritas

General, good info
 
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Anonymous

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Mike,

Thanks for the links, very good information and will help a great deal with my decision.

Roger
 

Alf

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Welcome to the forum, Roger. FWIW, since doing the scraper plane review I've subsequently sold my L-N #112. The intention was to get the L-V instead, but so far I haven't actually needed a scraper plane, so it's become a moot point as to whether I'll get one at all. I don't know what your scraper experience is, but it might be you'd be better served with a #80 f'rinstance.

Cheers, Alf
 

Scott

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I only have a Veritas 80 and it does me fine (FWIW)
 

Frank D.

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I have a Veritas 80 and a LN 112. Since I got my 112 my 80 has pretty well been gathering dust even though I still think it's a good tool. I like the flatness and control that a plane-type scraper gives me. I use it for panels or laminations with difficult grain, and thick veneer. I've also tried the Veritas 112 but I use a thick blade only, and really like the feel of the LN.
FWIW
 

MikeW

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Frank uses his like I do mine. Mainly for panels. Which makes the #85 not the right choice for me.

The LV does have an optional 1/8" blade (same as the LN version). The combined cost of the LV / thick replacement blade is still significantly less than the LN. The thin blade I think has advatages at times.

I use the LV version of the #80 for the flexible blade used in localized scraping. Had LV brought their scraper plane out sooner, I would have seriously looked at it instead of the LN version in order to have the thinner blade available for those times.

A couple more thoughts to confuse the issue :lol:

Mike
 

Ed451

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Ok, here's where I show my ignorance: does the thicker blade give a thinner shaving or better surface or???? I'll freely admit I know nothing about scraping planes. I like a medium-thickness card scraper, but I have a feeling these don't exactly compare. Thanks in advance.

Ed :)
 

MikeW

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Hi Ed,

Well, here's where I show my ignorance...

I can only offer personal observation as I don't think I've ever heard or read why.

A thinner blade allows one to arc the blade, which in turn allows a smaller area than the width of the blade to be scraped. It's a trade-off. The wider the area the blade attempts to scrape, the more likely one will introduce chatter if too heavy a shaving is attempted.

A thick blade allows a wider contact area and I think it doesn't need sharpened/reshaped as often.

So, for me, a thinner blade is better for small areas, the bigger, thicker blade for larger surfaces.

This is how I use my scraper planes:

The thinner blade on my LV #80 a-like, unless I have it bowed, it cannot take a full shaving without chatter. It is not really made for prolonged, full-width scraping anyway. I use it more for scraping veneer in small areas or glue lines, etc.

My Stanley #12, with a thin blade cannot take a decent shaving, but with a Hock blade in it, it does a wonderful job. I use it for full veneered surfaces, but smaller ones and or thin veneer. I use it more "delicately" than I do the #112.

The LN #112 doesn't have the ability to bow a thin blade, nor would I think I would want to. I use it for work on either solid wood tops, panels, etc, or on shop-sawn thick veneer. It can take wonderful shavings off highly figured woods (as per Frank's picture).

The LV version of the #112 can accept both a thin blade, used bowed for localized scraping as well as a thick blade for full-width scraping as one would do over a large surface. For this reason, I would have most likely gotten the LV version if it had been available.

Mike
 

bugbear

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Of course, the new generation of High Effective cutting (however achieved) ) angle planes may make scrapers a lot less helpful than they once were.

BugBear
 

MikeW

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bugbear":btjzxkig said:
Of course, the new generation of High Effective cutting (however achieved) ) angle planes may make scrapers a lot less helpful than they once were.
BugBear
I personally don't think they'll (BU / HA) planes will eliminate the need / usefullness of a scraper, whether handheld or mounted in a plane body.

At least where veneer and or highly figured wood is concerned. Whereas I can take a mighty thin shaving with the BU configured very HA (or the LN #4 1/2), there is still tearout in highly figured wood. I wouldn't risk it on veneer.

Too, with a scraper plane, one can take a fairly aggressive cut without tearout. Which means I can level with it (after planing down to nearly the finished surface) without incident quickly. Sub 1 thou shavings aren't helpful at that point. Unless one has a lot of time (and much more energy than I have :wink: ).

Mike
 

Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)

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I am leaning toward the Lie-Nielsen 112 and am looking for any sage advice on these Planes from anyone who owns one or has used any of the above
Hi Roger

Both Bugbear and Mike have made pertinent observations about the new generation of bevel up- and scraper planes.

My own experience is that I do not recall when I last used my scraper planes, which include a Stanley #112 with LN blade and two #80s. The fact is that the LV LA Smoother and LV BU Smoother, when used with a 62 degree cutting angle, are exceptional with difficult grain. It never ceases to amaze me when I plane into the grain as easily as with it, as I was doing yesteday with Jarrah and Camphor. I measured consistently between .0000" (my digital caliper does not go below that) and .0005 for full width shavings. Unbelievable! This is what Bugbear was refering to.

But Mike has a point, too, and a scraper is still needed on occasions. When this is so, I find it much more useful to turn to a card scraper since we are talking about touch-ups, not smoothing large sections.

So the question that I ask you, that you really need to answer, is what you intend to use a scraper plane on? Is it intended as a super smoother on hardwood, or a scraper on veneer, or what.

One last point - keep in mind that a scraper is not a choice for softwoods. You need a plane for these.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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Anonymous

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Derek,

My primary use for a scraper would be smoothing hardwood panels, table tops and occasionally figured maple, therefore I am not interested in hand scrapers. I am using a Performax 16/32 drum sander currently and am not totally satisfied with the results.

Roger
 

bugbear

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therefore I am not interested in hand scrapers.
Dereks point was that he's getting such good results from his planing that a hand scraper is all that's needed to fix up the few small remaining defects.

BugBear
 
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