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Scheppach TS2500

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whybob71

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Hi guys
I am new in this amazing forum!! :lol:
I would like to buy a scheppach TS2500 table saw in the standard configuration. Were can I find online a review? It's a good machine? Would you recommend some (veeery expensive!!) optional? May use a dado set on it (like the CMT one?)
 

wizer

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welcome to the forum whybob

best thing to do is search this forum for TS2500 . You will find LOTS of threads on the subject
 

Woodythepecker

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Hi Whybob, welcome to the forum.

My son has the Scheppach TS2500, but it is the older non cast iron model which you couldn't use a dado head cutter with.

Sorry if i am giving you the wrong information here (i am sure someone will correct me if i am wrong), but although you can use some sort of dado on the new model (TS2500CI), i believe that it is more like a wobble blade or adjustable groover as they call it, and if this is the case you would be unable to use the CMT.

Is it a good saw? Yes i think so. My son loves it, and now that it comes with a cast iron table i believe that it will be even better.

A number of other members have this saw and it will not be long before they give you their verdict.

Another good table saw which i had a go on last week is the Jet JTS-250S, this also comes with a sliding table.

If you are a fan of the New Yankee Workshop then one other saw that i have never used, but heard a lot of good things about from other members, is the Excalibur 805. This is a clone of Norms Delta Uni-saw and you certainly can use dado head cutters in this. Ask Philly about it and you will find that he's its biggest fan.

Regards

Woody

Edit: while searching google to try and get some info about the adjustable groover, i came upon the following at D B Keighley http://www.dbkeighley.co.uk/masters/ts2500.htm As you see it appears that the non cast iron ts2500 is still on the market, is this right? Because that page also has a link to the ts2500ci
 

Waka

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Whybob

Welcome to the forum.

Can't help you on the Scheppach TS2500 but if your thinking of the Xcalibar then thats a different story.
 

Adam

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I've got a TS2500 and love it. The long capability of the sliding table for me, is the #1 benefit of it over all other saws. The long "north-south" capability that the sliding table gives you compared to other saws is especially useful for cutting sheet material. I believe the new Cast Iron version will take a grooving head - (its not a wobble saw I don't think) but you'll have to check if it will take one from another manufacturer.

I'd buy another TS2500 (even though its "only" the aly topped version that I've got) without a second thought.

Two negatives that I can think of A) the instruction manual isn't really an instruction manual - its just an exploded view of the parts - I had my local dealer make mine up for me, and every person I know has said that assembly is hard work as they don't have clear assembly instructions.

B) the wheel kit is so rubbish, (or at least the 2 wheel version I got) so if you are going to be moving it about, find another solution - even if they offer it to you for "free". It really is appalling.

Those two aside, I'm very pleased with mine.

Adam
 

devonwoody

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Whybob, Good day.
I recently purchased the 2500ci and the groover is not a true dado and to be honest I haven't put it yet to the test. I can vouch for the sliding table assembly, it must be better than most on the scene upto this price range because it has bearings.

Its just as well mind you that the sliding carriage is good because I would not want to rely on the mitre fence slots without some modifications being done. There is too much slack in my opinion or was on my model.

Nice depth of cut around the 85mm mark and if you turn the timber over that makes 170mm depth: thats neary 7" and the set up can stand it.
 

dennyk

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I'll second what Devon said about the 2500CI.

I had the original 2500TS with the aluminium table, I sold it to a good friend who was going to buy the smaller version, that Sheppach had at the time.

I bought the 250CI with the Dado set and the sliding table also the new wheel set that Sheppach brought out to go with the 2500CI, the wheel set works that well, I bought another one and fixed it to my large router table, with a small workshop 200 Sq Ft, I need to be able to move all my heavy gear about to give me room to work
 

tim

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Most has been said already. I have one and use it every day - its now about 4 years old and has been used for work for two of them.

Good points: In addition to those already listed it is robust and accurate (aside from the poor mitre slots in the ally top one).

Weak points: These relate to the ally top version.
Its easy for the table to get scratched or damaged.
If you have the sliding table (a must IMO) while its easy to remove its difficult to store and it does need to be removed when doing any rip cut where the offcut is wider than about 6 inches.
The RH extension table is not of the best quality.
Dust collection isn't magic (this could be levelled at a bunch of TS though)
I'm not sure how I rate the NMA guys either. They seem helpful but very disengaged if you need info and not very clued up on specifics. Given that this is fairly high up the Sheppach range order, I don't think thats so impressive.

Depends on your budget but if you wanted to go with Sheppach I would opt for the 4010 instead. Whatever, I would get teh 2m rail instead of the 1.4 simply so that you can cross cut full sheets of ply.

All in all though, I have run it hard without a single fault for four years (thats tempting fate isn't it!)

Where are you btw? You can come and have a look if you are my way.

Cheers

Tim
 

devonwoody

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Dust extraction is now superb on my scheppach2500ci.

there has been a modification because when looking inside my cabinet below the c.i. table the dust extraction system does not compare with the manual. There was hardly and sawdust lying around either when viewing, although my dustbin collector (RecordRSDE1) was complketely full the other day.

I would be pleased to hear of anyone that has used the grooving attachment cutter and advice or performance.
 

whybob71

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thanks a lot for the replay!

the model I like is the TS2500ci. Do I really need the sliding table??? May save money and build a shop made jig for crosscutting?

It's possible to make a "zero clearance" insert on this table saw?
 

devonwoody

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You could........but.............

zero clearance insert would be possible, I intend one day to use the existing insert plates which are a very nice fit to the table and build up closer tolerances to the blade from under the inserts.
 

tim

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DW":37nfgpeo said:
zero clearance insert would be possible, I intend one day to use the existing insert plates which are a very nice fit to the table and build up closer tolerances to the blade from under the inserts.
That won't give you zero clearnce since the gap at the top of the surface plate is what counts. You need to make (unless they sell) a sacrificial plate the same thickness as the current plate, fix it in place with the blade lowered and the n very slowly bring the spinning blade up through the sacrificial plate. Then the edges of the plate will be as close to the edge of the blade as is possible and therefore create a zero clearance.

Where are you btw? You can come and have a look if you are my way.
okay - so not that close then!

Cheers


Tim
 

dennyk

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I have made a zero clearance insert from 1/4" thick perspex, it fits in place of the left hand half of the existing insert, I have found it works fine
 

devonwoody

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Tim: I agree with what you wrote, my thought was to put a backing under the existing plates and then rebuild the top surface flush with the table and let the blade cut a new aperture steadily raising up the saw blade. The reason being is that the existing plates are so flush with the top it would be sad to lose that setup.

I must get round to doing this because my present project has required quite a lot of strips and many fell down the side of the blade into the cabinet.
 
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