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Scheppach TS2000 flimsy throat plate?

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archpa

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Hi all

I'm a new Scheppach owner, and very happy with my new saw. Just one question:

The throat plate is made of thinish aluminium and runs the length of the table. A spring lifts it up against a screw for easy removal. The plate seems to bend slightly. (noticed when I bring the fence of the sliding carriage over the plate, it touches briefly when over that part of the table)

Is this a problem? Does this affect the cuts?
I guess I could remove the spring to improve things, or, is there a better material to make the plate from? It is very thin, so I'm not sure what other material would be suitable. It would also be nice to make a zero clearance plate anyway.

Any comments please

Thanks.
 

Adam

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You could talk to NMA, or wait until he gets back of his hols!

Chris might have some suggestions, as he used to have this saw. (Stitching him up for a reply yet again :roll: )

Adam :wink:
 

gidon

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Hi
I agree - the throat plate isn't the most nicely finished part of the saw. Its fit depends on the adjustment of the two side tables. But this isn't too important. I haven't found it to affect the cuts and it appears flat to the table when screwed down. The spring makes it nice and easy to remove for blade change.
I have considered a zero clearance plate but never made one. It could be made from wood. Although the rebate to hold it in would be thin, the rest of it could be thicker. Or there's probably another way of holding it in - I'll have to have a look when I'm next at my saw.
Cheers
Gidon
 

archpa

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Thanks for the 2 fast replies already!

Gideon,

Yes I'd be interested in your comments about making a new plate after you've had a look at the saw.


Does the spring on yours flex the plate ?
 

Chris Knight

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archpa,

I never found the throat plate caused me any problems - I should say that never noticed it bend either.

I never did make a zero clearance plate for the saw as it always seemed to be such a hassle given the dimensions of everything. My new TS 4010 got one almost on day one but that has a very easy design.

For your saw, I think it would be best to make one with another piece of aluminium of the same size and then to inset a suitable sized bit of wood into a larger opening than the present plate has. The inlay would need to come up from the bottom and have a "flange" that could be glued or screwed to the top with countersunk headed screws or bolts. It should not be too difficult really, I was just too idle I guess.
 

archpa

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I've had another look at the plate - I removed it from the table, and it's actually bent! - about half a cm deflection.

The screw almost pulls it flat again, but not quite.

Is this normal? Surly the plate should be perfectly flat before you screw it in?

Thanks
 

Adam

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That sounds like damage to me - get onto the shipping company ASAP.

Adam
 

gidon

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Archpa

It's the same on my TS2000 - the screw pulls it flat. Hasn't been a problem for me. Appears to be designed that way.

I did have a look at a way of a mounting a home made throat plate - but looks a little more tricky than I thought. We give it further thought.

Cheers

Gidon
 

archpa

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Hi, Gideon

It's good to know it's at least designed that way.
Mind is within a mil or 2 of flat once screwed down. Is that about the same as yours?
 

gidon

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Archpa
No - mine is flat when screwed down. I would speak to NMA if I was you - they will sort you out with a new throat plate if they think it's necessary. Certainly shouldn't be a mm out - you won't get the sliding table or mitre gauge working across that sort of undulation I wouldn't think.
Cheers
Gidon
 
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