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Scheppach HMS260 Planer/Surfacer

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gwaithcoed

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I had to move my planer to my garage while I had a new roof on my little workshop.and I did more dragging and tugging, than lifting and carrying, since its return I am finding it is not surface planing true as before. As the timber leaves the adjustable table it leaves a slight scallop in the last 3/4 inch of timber. Can anyone advise me on the procedure to set up the planer surfaces please.????? Heres Hoping Alan Daft
 

Argee

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Sounds like the infeed table is too high/outfeed too low (whichever method your planer uses), so that when the stock passes over the cutters, it then goes "downhill" to the outfeed table. Once the last 3/4" passes over the cutter and is denied the support of the infeed, it takes a dive, giving you the result you describe. To start setting up, both tables need to be in line, which shouldn't remove anything from the stock. A straightedge should be all that's necessary to confirm this, then ease the infeed table down accordingly.

Ray.
 

Aragorn

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Hi Alan. Welcome to the forum
Please tell me you didn't drag/carry the planer by its tables??!!
The weight of the machine can bow the tables, leaving you with the un-fixable problem of bow in everything you plane :cry: :cry: (DAMHIKT :roll: )
The snipe you're getting at the end of the board is as Argee says, and should be easily fixable.
Do your instructions give the procedure for setting the tables?
If not (or not adequately) it might be best to phone NMA Agencies who deal with Scheppach in the UK. They can send you more detailed instructions on adjusting the machine, which is handy for future reference as well.

Hope it works out!
 

gwaithcoed

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Argee":3o43rd9t said:
Sounds like the infeed table is too high/outfeed too low (whichever method your planer uses), so that when the stock passes over the cutters, it then goes "downhill" to the outfeed table. Once the last 3/4" passes over the cutter and is denied the support of the infeed, it takes a dive, giving you the result you describe. To start setting up, both tables need to be in line, which shouldn't remove anything from the stock. A straightedge should be all that's necessary to confirm this, then ease the infeed table down accordingly.

Ray.
Hi Ray, Thanks for your reply. A quick check shows both infeed and outfeed tables appear to dip to the cutter block. Will check further
Thanks Alan.
 

gwaithcoed

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Aragorn":2ance9jm said:
Hi Alan. Welcome to the forum
Please tell me you didn't drag/carry the planer by its tables??!!
The weight of the machine can bow the tables, leaving you with the un-fixable problem of bow in everything you plane :cry: :cry: (DAMHIKT :roll: )
The snipe you're getting at the end of the board is as Argee says, and should be easily fixable.
Do your instructions give the procedure for setting the tables?
If not (or not adequately) it might be best to phone NMA Agencies who deal with Scheppach in the UK. They can send you more detailed instructions on adjusting the machine, which is handy for future reference as well.

Hope it works out!
Hi Aragorn, Thanks for your reply. No I didn't drag it by the tables, not all the way.. I do have some instructions for the problem I described it just says" Adjust the tables". I will try NMA as you suggest.
Thanks Alan.
 

gwaithcoed

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waterhead37":15f7a8og said:
I'd be surprised if you have actually distorted the tables - more likely that the smallish bolts holding the tables in position have slipped a bit.

See this post for NMA contact details
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... aner+table
Hi, waterhead37 Thanks for your reply, am going to contact NMA for detailed instructions Thanks Alan.
 
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Anonymous

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I have this exact same problem with my Scheppach 260.

Will check out the tables really thoroughly tonight, but did you manage to resolve this on your own table Alan?
 

simuk

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I have had the same problem, and its a real pain setting them up right. :evil: would never have have bought the machine if i knew the amount of hassle it is to get them set up right . even with the straightest straight edge in the world it can take hours to get them right.

Simon
 
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Anonymous

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Hi All,
I had this problem myself and called NMA. They suggested that the cutter height was not correct. They told me there is a slight dip in the outfeed table by design so I would not be too worried about this. The lump of metal that is provided for setting the cutter height might not be the best. (Is that diplomatic enough?)

I was told to use a piece of wood and make the marks on it only 1.5mm apart (approx). My piece of wood is the length of the outfeed table and I apply a small amount of pressure to it to make sure the cutter picks it up. The concept is that the cutter block picks up the piece of wood and moves it 1.5mm. I would admit that it is a little fiddly but it seems to work for me.

I could of course be talking a load of b***s.

Gareth
 

gwaithcoed

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biglouie wrote
but did you manage to resolve this on your own table Alan?
The answer is yes, I sent a PM to him along with a copy of my user manual for what its worth. If anyone else is interested this is how I fixed mine. Having owned the machine from new I knew that the problem arose after I had moved the machine to my garage while having a new roof put on to my workshop.Replys from the forum members pointed me to the problem that the outfeed table must be set too low(why didn't I think of that) Looking at the infeed table I couldn't see how that could have moved, it does have adjusters on it but it is also "staked", so from that I took it that this was in the correct position,and I would take all my references from that.
I purchased a 3ft straight edge (actually it was an aluminium spirit level) and placed it on the infeed table, and could see right away the the outfeed table was low.Checking with a feeler gauge it was about 2mil.
I then removed the blade guard, and slackened off the eccentric clamp so that the outfeed table was sitting on the adjusters. I then scribed a mark on all four adjusters so that if all went pear shaped I could at least go back to where I started from.

This is where you need lots of time and patience as its a matter of off with the table lift the adjusters ,back on again,check with the feelers, further adjust until you cannot get feelers between the straight edge and the outfeed table.

In my case it didn't take too long, I think what I had done was to lift on the outer end of the outfeed table which had pushed down on the adjusters nearest to the planer block.

After replacing the guard and tightening all the bolts,tried it and problem solved, There may be other ways of doing it but this worked for me.


Cheers Alan.
 

Manny

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simuk wrote

I have had the same problem, and its a real pain setting them up right. would never have have bought the machine if i knew the amount of hassle it is to get them set up right . even with the straightest straight edge in the world it can take hours to get them right.
I feel the same way - great machine except for setting the tables. Is it the same with the new cast iron tables?

agrajag you wrote "They told me there is a slight dip in the outfeed table by design" could you explain the dip - thanks

John
 

gwaithcoed

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Manny wrote
Is it the same with the new cast iron tables?
When I contacted NMA about my problem they indicated that it is far more difficult to set up the tables on the cast iron ones

Alan
 
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Manny":215r7pwf said:
simuk wrote
agrajag you wrote "They told me there is a slight dip in the outfeed table by design" could you explain the dip - thanks

John
When I placed a straight edge on the table there was a slight dip. (fx: scurries off to get feeler gauges and straight edge) OK I am back now. I apologise for owning such a thing as a set of feeler gauges, however, I was originally an engineer. I will throw them in the bin forthwith. BTW you think that the wood working fraternity get into to tizzy over tools, techniques etc. Get three marine engineers in a room and you will 4 opinions!

The dip is a massive 0.15mm at worst measure from corner to corner, front to back it is 0.10mm.

I might possibly be missing the point here, but... I would have thought that as long as the outfeed table is parallel to the in feed table there should be no real issue. You do not need to have the infeed and out feed tables level with each other when the infeed is set to 0, it might be nice but I have yet to require a surfacing cut of 0. However if the cutters are not set up correctly with respect to the out feed table you are really going to have problems.
 

Manny

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"I apologise for owning such a thing as a set of feeler gauges" - thats what I use, I'm not going to bin mine. Interesting and odd that it's designed with a slight dip in the outfeed table.

John
 
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Anonymous

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ok, so now I have a manual, I have read this thread top to bottom over and over, I have a 1 meter straight edge and have spent a couple hours on the machine...

its really should have to be this hard...But I spose once its done it done..

Its still not done btw...
 

gwaithcoed

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Hello biglouie, I know, I know, Tell me about it, been there, done that :( :( but I forgot to mention in my earlier post that after you have set the outfeed table you must then readjust the planing knives as these will be set relative to the position that the table was in before
arajag wrote
I might possibly be missing the point here, but... I would have thought that as long as the outfeed table is parallel to the in feed table there should be no real issue. You do not need to have the infeed and out feed tables level with each other when the infeed is set to 0, it might be nice but I have yet to require a surfacing cut of 0. However if the cutters are not set up correctly with respect to the out feed table you are really going to have problems.
You will never get a zero cut as the planer knives are always set slightly higher than the outfeed table when you use the setting gauge. As for surface planing as you say provided that the infeed and outfeed table are parallel there should be no problems. The problem arises on a P/T if the infeed table has moved down on one side, then the outfeed table is set parallel to it. the knives are then set to the outfeed table, when you come to use the thicknesser, this table will not be parallel to the surfacing tables and you will get a difference in thickness across the timber.

I think thats right,I hope its right ,if not :oops: :oops: :oops: :oops:


Alan
 

simuk

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Hi, all
Have been using the machine today, and my off button is sticking have to tap it a couple of times to get to turn off. Blown air over it but still sticking any ideas.

Simon
 
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