sawing plywood

benrymnd · 9 Oct 2016

I have just cut some 6mm plywood patterns using a no2 blade and find that the plywood is splintering it isn't cheap plywood is there any way to avoid the splintering.
Regards Ray

bodgerbaz · 10 Oct 2016

By splintering, do you mean you're getting 'tear-out' (fuzzies) along the cut line? Is the #2 blade a 'reverse-tooth' blade? These blades usually eliminate much of the tear-out. If you haven't come across them before they are basically standard blades with all the teeth pointing in one direction but the last few teeth face in the opposite direction so you end up with a two-way cutting action.

Usually, splintering or tear-out occurs where the choice of blade teeth is too aggressive but that shouldn't happen with a #2 blade.

You could try running a strip of masking tape along the middle of the cut line to see if that makes any difference?

Barry

ChrisR · 10 Oct 2016

As Barry said, try using reverse tooth blades, also you state that your ply is good quality, by this do you mean that it is good quality construction ply, which can have a tendency to splinter.

The best ply for intricate scroll saw work is grade (A) Baltic birch, but it does have a higher price tag.

Chris.

benrymnd · 10 Oct 2016

The splintering is always on the underside I have tried using masking tape on the underside as well as the top/pattern side but it doesn't eliminate it although the splintering is slightly less.
I will order somerevers tooth blades to see if it helps.

bodgerbaz · 11 Oct 2016

Your problem sounds a bit like someone cutting thin ply with a tenon saw. A #2 blade should leave a very sharp clean cut on the top and slight tear-out on the bottom (and clean both sides if you use a reverse-toothed blade. It sounds like Chris may be right in that it may be the ply you are using. Try and get some good quality Baltic Birch. Most model shops (if you have one close by) usual stock some small sheets.

scrimper · 11 Oct 2016

benrymnd":3eoxlfjo said:
The splintering is always on the underside I have tried using masking tape on the underside as well as the top/pattern side but it doesn't eliminate it although the splintering is slightly less.
I will order somerevers tooth blades to see if it helps.

You will always get some splintering no matter what wood you use or type of blade, as others say reverse tooth blades do help and considering that they cost very little more than normal blades they are well worth using, however do bear in mind that only the bottom 3 or 4 teeth on the blade point upwards so if you use a thick supplementary table the reverse teeth my not touch the wood.

Even normal blades should only cause minimal splintering so it suggests poor quality plywood, what I do is stack cut even when I only want one piece, the bottom piece is sacrificial and takes the splintering leaving the top one clean.

I find the best way to stack cut is to hold the material together using veneer or panel pins in the waste areas, this keeps the wood tightly together and with decent wood the splintering on the layers above is virtually non existent.

If you don't use a supplementary table; consider making one, the main advantage is that you can leave a very small hole for the blade to pass through giving a lot more support for your work. Don't make it too thick or you will negate the use of reverse tooth blades (as mentioned above) I made mine out of 6mm mdf with a trim around the outside that holds it in place on the main table.