Saw blades / Scheppach TS 2500 CI

[LeeElms]

I have a Scheppach TS 2500 CI table saw. I need some guidance as to suitable blades.

The supplied blade is a labelled:

Scheppach 270 x 3.2 x 30 Z=24
It also has 2 pinholes either side of the central bore, approx 42mm apart (centres)

The Scheppach brochure only lists 250mm blades, similarly the Axminster catalogue 'Perform' and 'CMT' blades. It also appears that the Perform blades do not have pinholes.

Any thoughts on the size of blade & the pinholes ?

 

[jasonB]

Wealden do most of their blades in 270mm dia, not sure about holes for drive pins. Does your arbor have pins that locate in the holes or is it just a blade that will fit other saws as well :?:

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Cir ... es_23.html

Jason

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi Jason

Do you know how the Wealden blades compare to Freud, in terms of quality and value for money?

Cheers
Neil

 

[Chris Knight]

Someone with the 2500 will likely confirm but my 4010 (alu top) came with a 12 inch blade with no pinholes but it shares the common 30mm bore with the 2500 and I doubt very much if the pin holes in Lee's blade are related to the arbor bushing.

 

[jasonB]

Not used any freud blades but I have got a couple of the wealden blades and have had no problems with them even after a couple of sharpenings there is still plenty of carbide left. I do tend to buy the CMT ones now from Axminster.

Jason

 

[Philly]

I've been using a Frued recently (dude :roll: ) and it is the best. Never had such clean x and rip cuts. Thin kerf jobby too-less waste!
CHeers
Philly

 

[Noel]

I have the Freud thin kerf rip and 60T crosscut. Excellent finish. Have also been using a CMT industrial crosscut and it seem as good but early days yet.

Noel

 

[LeeElms]

There are 2 pins that fit in the pin-holes on the component that fits between the blade and the nut that secures the blade (i.e. arbor / blade / component with pins / nut). So I guess I do need the pin-holes (?).

Will there be any problem with a 250mm blade, apart from some loss of depth of cut ?

 

[Chris Knight]

I haven't tried a thin kerf blade on my big saw but when I had the Scheppach TS2000, using the (Frued Fried?) Freud(!) blade was less than ecstatic because of the blade vibration.

I suspect many folk don't realise that a less than perfect cut is often down to the blade wobbling and rippling as it cuts the wood. Startup and slowdown often provoke blade vibration as does cutting thin plywood which resonates worse than Philly's guitar :wink:

Cures include:- changing the blade, cutting slower and using blade stabilisers. For the most part a rather expensive blade fixes most issues.

Fired, Fried and Freud blades cost about the same and are lowball. Scheppach blades cost somewhere in the middle and perform lowball. Trend blades cost a lot but are good. Somewhere in the middle is a host of variously germanically named blades that don't sound like Perform, CMS and other Chaiwanese or Italian names.

 

[ike]

There are 2 pins that fit in the pin-holes on the component that fits between the blade and the nut that secures the blade (i.e. arbor / blade / component with pins / nut). So I guess I do need the pin-holes (?).

Are the pins removable?. If so, you don't actuallyneed them. Drive pin(s) are though, a safety feature. If the blade nut loosens, without the arbor positively engaging the blade with these pins, the blade, if it stalled in the cut, can cause the blade nut to suddenly spin loose. With the drive pin(s) in, the result is a vibrating blade but won't end with sudden catastrophy.

That said, most saws don't use drive pins, but use larger diameter blade washers to provide more than adequate friction at full power.

cheers

Ike

 

[LeeElms]

It is not obvious that the pins could be removed.

I don't think I was that clear in my previous description; the pins aren't on the arbor, they are part of a substantial 'blade washer'; they pass through the blade and then into holes on the arbor.

So it appears I need blades with pin holes; I assume that the spacing is 'standard' ?

What about the diameter ... the supplied blade is 270mm, but the Scheppach brochure only lists 250mm blades, and 270mm seems 'rare' compared with 250mm ?

 

[Philly]

Lee
I think you should give the men at NMA a call to get to the bottom of this.
Cheers
Philly

 

[ike]

I don't think I was that clear in my previous description;

Yes, you were!

So it appears I need blades with pin holes; I assume that the spacing is 'standard' ?

Live in hope.....

What about the diameter ... the supplied blade is 270mm, but the Scheppach brochure only lists 250mm blades, and 270mm seems 'rare' compared with 250mm ?

Scheppach do this with their site saw (which I have) with a 315mm blade. But as you probably know, you generally find only 300mm replacements.

Echo Philly's advice to talk to NMA. Push come to shove, if twere I and I got a lot of static about sticking to Scheppach blades, I'd probably cut the pins off - but that's me, and it doesn't constitute advice to you or others.

cheers

Ike

 

[gav]

Presumably if you went for a thin kerf blade you would need to adjust the riving knife to match?

Just thought I'd ask as I haven't yet purchased any additional blades for my TS and I'd always assumed I would have to get the same kerf as the supplied blade to match.

Gav

 

[Woody Alan]

Lee

I have just assembled my 2500ci today and I wanted to try my OMAS fine blade, it had no holes in to align with those of the scheppach drive washer, so I simply put the washer in the vice and drifted out the hardened sprung steel pins. Whatever you do, don't try to cut them off as they are harder than the washer material, so could only end in grief. also by drifting them out, you can always drift them in again....not that you ever will

cheers Alan

 

[LeeElms]

Alan

I was considering doing that myself; nice to hear of someone else a little bolder doing it first !

-- Lee