Sash Window Refurb

[sammybrush]

Forum,
Virgin poster, experienced lurker.

I am looking to refurbish 7 sliding sash windows in my house, that are approx 100 years old.
There is a mixture of re-painting, re-glazing, re-cording and draft proofing through to replacement of at least one maybe two complete units.
After doing a bit of research I have an idea of what needs to be done regarding draft proofing but would like to ask the members of the board a few questions -

1. Other than the obvious physical differences, what the main differences are between the brush and the rubber weather seal/pile draft proofing systems and which would people recommend? (i am thinking brush pile for the parting and staff beads, reversing the parting bead around at the meeting rail and then rubber weather strip for the meeting rails)

2. Does anybody know any suppliers of sash hardware based in the northwest? The two that i have found on the web are Reddiseals and Mighton. However, there seems to be a reasonable price difference between the two? Has anybody used either company products and would be able to offer a recommendation. I don't mind ordering online but i am not a fan of doing it blind, so to speak.

Thanks for reading and keep up the good work

 

[eezageeza]

You might find it useful to post this sot of query on a period property forum, rather than here.

Mods - am I allowed to put a link to one on here ?

 

[Jacob]

Forum,
Virgin poster, experienced lurker.

I am looking to refurbish 7 sliding sash windows in my house, that are approx 100 years old.
There is a mixture of re-painting, re-glazing, re-cording and draft proofing through to replacement of at least one maybe two complete units.
After doing a bit of research I have an idea of what needs to be done regarding draft proofing but would like to ask the members of the board a few questions -

1. Other than the obvious physical differences, what the main differences are between the brush and the rubber weather seal/pile draft proofing systems and which would people recommend? (i am thinking brush pile for the parting and staff beads, reversing the parting bead around at the meeting rail and then rubber weather strip for the meeting rails)

2. Does anybody know any suppliers of sash hardware based in the northwest? The two that i have found on the web are Reddiseals and Mighton. However, there seems to be a reasonable price difference between the two? Has anybody used either company products and would be able to offer a recommendation. I don't mind ordering online but i am not a fan of doing it blind, so to speak.

Thanks for reading and keep up the good work

I used to do a lot of sashes - from minor repairs to complete replication.
I gave up on draught proofing early on for various reasons:
1 it's very difficult to fit to old windows where things aren't in good condition to start with
2 It becomes a maintenance problem in it's own right - coming adrift, too tight, getting in the way of paintwork, water getting into the machined slots, etc
3 But more than anything because a sash window properly set up, old or new, is surprisingly draught proof without any add -ons. It may not seem likely when you look at an old draughty window but is true. Not 100% draughtproof but this is undesirable anyway - there has to be a trickle of fresh air and an escape route for condensation.

 

[RobinBHM]

I would start by measuring the frame and sash sections then add these to a sectional drawing (horizontal and vertical sections) of a box sash window. That will then help you work out what room you have available for weatherseals, if any. I would then choose the weatherseal based on what will fit. Dont assume the weather seal will just squeeze in -it wont, too tight and your sashes wont slide at all! The correct tolerances for weatherseals must be allowed for.

Staff bead with a weather seal is straightforward that can be pushed up to the sash and pinned on, at worse it may overhang the box a bit more than the original. The parting bead is not so easy -the sashes cant be altered to accommodate greater thickness here.

reddiseals have a download page which has a pdf with box sectional details.

I've always bought reddiseals brush pile for new box sashes and use in the edges of the sash stiles. I use parting bead and staff bead with the carrier in it for the brush pile. Also I groove out the outer facing for weather brush as well.

Ive bought from both Reddiseals and Mighton, both excellent companies and both deliver next day, I wouldnt be concerned about ordering online and you wont find any other companies with such a wide product range for the sliding sash market.

 

[StevieB]

I also used Reddiseals when doing the sash windows in my house. No problems with the quality of materials but you do need to know what you want.

As for brush or rubber, I went with brush and haven't regretted it. Don't fit the beading too tight to the sash frames however, as this will cause the pile to force its way out of the beading as the sash's slide. One other point to note - the staff and parting beads are metric and not 100% equivalent to my 1850 Georgian sash windows. As a consequence I had to thin down the parting bead to fit the channel in the box frame - not a problem as I had a router table but would be a nightmare by hand. The staff bead is also a different size to the original but as I replaced this all round the window it wasn't a problem. If you are repairing rather than fully replacing however this could also be a problem for you. Finally - the external of my box sash looks like it has a staff bead on the outside - it doesn't this is actually part of the box frame presumably shaped with a moulding plane - it therefore will not come off and need replacing! All my sashes therefore are removed by taking them into the house, so if you want the top sash out you have to remove the central bead first, which has implications for the order of replacing the sashes and painting the centre bead.

Steve

 

[MrYorke]

Reddiseals all the way. I do lots of sashes every year.

I use the SoF seal parting bead and staff bead. Reason being, if you want to top up the paintwork down the line you don't have to worry about getting paint on the draught strips like you will the brush strips - these clog-up with paint very easily and once dry won't be doing their job very well and will stick.

I also add the flipper seal at the meeting rails and above the top rail on the top sash and below the bottom rail on the bottom sash.

You will find that this provides great draught proofing - I've never had a customer complain.......yet!

Good luck. Hope it goes well