Safe ripping of bevels

[Lonsdale73]

Example: 40mm x 40mm timber, ripped to produce two (roughly) equal triangular shaped sections of 40mm x 40mm x 57mm. Blade tilts to left.

How do I work out where to position my fence to obtain this without potentially losing my fingers?

OR should I not even be considering such folly, using instead a MUCH wider board with fence on the right 40mm less than total blade width, make first at 45 degrees, place blade back to 90 degrees and make second pass? Also, do r taise the blade to maximum height before setting to 45 degree or only to a height only marginally more than the hypotenuse?

I want to make some old fashioned produce trays with triangular legs / corner posts.

 

[MikeG.]

If you tell me what the kerf is I can draw it in a millisecond and tell you where to locate the fence.

Either that, or turn the blade until the top of a tooth lies exactly at the level of the bed, then offer up an off-cut such that the corner is in the middle of that tooth, and bring the fence up to the off-cut.

 

[custard]

Your workshop, your fingers, so your rules.

In my workshop I wouldn't rip two of those components in one pass, and I'm not exactly a newbie around woodworking machinery! I've seen other guys do something similar with a false wooden fence tight against the blade, fair play to them, but it's not for me.

And it's not even like you need hundreds of these components, so even more reason to play it safe and use two passes for each finished component.

Good luck!

 

[johnnyb]

Ditto. A bandsaw would do that job easy though

 

[MikeG.]

I'd do it on a cradle on the bandsaw.

 

[Ttrees]

It is a dangerous thing to do on the tablesaw from what I've read!
These fillets are prone to harpoon into the operators hand, I have heard of a seasoned pro's fingers getting amputated
by this.
I won't attempt to have an opinion as I'm a complete novice on machines.
Good luck

 

[johnnyb]

The fillet between the fence and the blade would be resting on the blade. Basically around the upcoming teeth.

 

[custard]

I mentioned before a false wooden fence, I should have pointed out that fence is bevelled at 45 degrees, so the blade is vertical, and the components (in theory) fall away to each side. That's the way I've seen it done.

Still not for me though.

 

[Lonsdale73]

1.8mm - stopwatch starts .....now! Where's my answer?

 

[MikeG.]

38.7mm

ETA.......38.727mm from the point where the blade (or at least, the notional cut line) meets the table, to the fence.

 

[MikeG.]

But do it on a bandsaw, please.

 

[Lonsdale73]

38.7mm

ETA.......38.727mm from the point where the blade (or at least, the notional cut line) meets the table, to the fence.

Brilliant. Is there a formula for working out different widths?

 

[MikeG.]

Well, I'm sure there probably is, but I just draw it.

 

[Jacob]

....
How do I work out where to position my fence to obtain this without potentially losing my fingers?
.......

Just noticed this thread.
The answer is to use two push sticks. Then your fingers never go anywhere near the blade and you have longer reach and better control of the workpiece.
Fence position is another issue - main prob is to avoid the off-cut getting jammed and slung out. Usual answer is a false fence with a drop out space for the off-cut. And use riving knife/crown guard of course.