Ryobi RT6000 aka Record RPMS-R router table, not very good

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johnelliott

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Anyone else have one of these? I bought one today, spent several hours assembling and setting up, only to find that there are several problems with it. It's made in Taiwan, BTW.
The design is OK, it's the execution that's the problem. The sliding table needs a good hard push and yet still doesn't travel in a perfectly straight line, the two parts of the fence (infeed and outfeed) go out of parallel when they are tightened down, and the router clamping system distorts the base of the router sufficiently to make the router very difficult to move on its plunge bars. I will go and mess with it some more this evening, but I anticipate taking it back tomorrow.
Trouble is, I need a router table with a sliding table because I cut tongues on end grain a lot, and the timber needs to be firmly held while traversing the cutter. I doubt a tenoning jig would be accurate enough

John
 
John, I can see why you think you might need a sliding table but honestly you don't.

A well waxed router table, a decent sled with a proper right angle and if you really want them, bells and whistles:- http://my.ohio.voyager.net/~colemanc/Bin/Sounds/Steam/slsf1522.wav
like a couple of toggle clamps etc. will do the job just fine.

I rout lots of end grain with many different profiles and all I ever use is a piece of square melamine fitted with a handle. OK, occasionally I have used a clamp but not very often.

You do need to have a good fence and I often use a sacrificial insert to make sure I have a zero clearance situation at the bit.
 
Hi John
I also use a router table to cut end grain when I make up scribed and profiled panel frames, such as on a raised panel door. The method for doing this is to make a mitre carriage that rides against the fence - the advantage of this is that there is lower risk of kickback than a sliding carriage that might be out of square with the fence.
Anyway - point is it works really well and if you used this method you could have the router table of your choice and not be limited to ones with sliding carriage.
The jig is really simple - a flat MDF base around 300mm x 400mm with a baton of 3x1 (around 500mm long) screwed in along the long edge at exactly 90° to the short edge to form the crosscut guide. Screw one of those hold down clamps to the baton so that you can secure your workpiece in front of it. The 300mm edge rides along the fence and there you go! You need to raise your router bit up the depth of the MDF, but I not find this to be beyond the plunge range of a normal router.
This is the method recommended by Trend for cutting scribes in endgrain.
 
A mere 15 hours later, the dead respond with: :wink:

I use a certain well-known routing machine for this kind of thing. Never mind sliding carriages; power feed anyone? :lol:

John, sounds like a bit of a citrus fruit :?

Cheers, Alf
 
Alf":yktrssbh said:
I use a certain well-known routing machine for this kind of thing.
Hmm.... What could that be!..... It's getting a bit quiet round here recently - why not mention the name to get a few more posts goin' :!:
 
Hey All,
I bought one of these back in September.
Things I Like-
cast table
good router clamp system (once set up right)
sliding table
Dislikes-
rubbish fence(although it looks good with lots of adjustments)
bloody heavy!

Overall, I am glad I bought it, the cast table really absorbs vibration and makes the router sound quieter ( imagine that!). The sliding table is good, dont use it a lot but when I need it, there it is. Made up my own fence and that solved that problem-the original fence is good looking thing-unfortunately the faces are not parellel!!!! I will shortly be building a rolling base unit to mount the top on. It weighs a hell of a lot and if you need to move it, urgh!
But in hind sight, maybe I would save my money and make Philly router table markIV instead-but then this table does have some good features, so don't count it out if you can get it for a good price!
regards,
Philly
 
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