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Ryobi heavy duty router table

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Philly

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Roger
It's the same as the Record one, also badged under various names.
Not a bad table, very heavy with the cast section. Sliding table is huge and very useful. Fence needed a bit of fettling on mine but apart from that very good.
Hope this helps
Philly :D
 

Majorlarf

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The record table has an offer with free 1/2" collet extension in there spring offers
 

RogerS

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Thanks guys..didn't realise that. Ho Hum...decisions, decisions again. Was going to build my router table into the top of my workbench along with an Incra twin Linear..lots of real estate ..especially for easily supporting long pieces...at least that was the main rationale.

But now I'm thinking ditch the Incra (on back order), get the record..mill as per Ike's mod...sell the collet extension and the router table insert. I am so taken by that sliding table.

Mmmm...
 

andycktm

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Hi I
If you go on the ebay part of baron bros.ltd (Buyatool) they've got the ryobi for £250-00 bid starts at £220-00 so if you rung them,i think you would get one for £220-00.They've also got the table with router rE-601 for a buy now of £400 with a summit best offer!.I would imagine the combo is as good as anything.If you like bargain's get yourself one.
 

gardenshed

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I bought one of these a year ago, and it was the sliding table that clinched it.
The main problem I found was the fences & dust hood are all seperate and you bolt them together which created alignment issues which took an age to solve.

And even though I had the Ryobi router it was still not easy fitting the router on the adjustable mounting mainly due to the weight of the router in one hand while fiddling around with the brackets in the other hand to get it aligned properly even with the table tilted

The sliding table was OK, but the mitre & clamping arrangment IMHO was poor.

I sold it after 3 months of sheer frustration and made my own using much the same parts as your thinking of doing.

IMHO You'll be happier with making your own.
 

ike

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Yup, "out of the box" the tables' got it's faults, i'll be the first to agree. But it can be "tweaked" without much cost, into a very competent bit of kit, and yes, apart from the super solid cast iron table, the sliding table is the clincher.

Ike
 

Woody Alan

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Gardenshed

I'd be interested to see some pics and/or details of your solution to making your own table.

Cheers Alan
 

johnelliott

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I had one of these and returned it after a couple of days.Two main reasons- the two parts of the fence (infeed side and outfeed side) didn't line up, and the sliding table became unreliable at each end of its stroke due to the fact that it doesn't have proper bearings, just the profile sliding in, IIRC, plastic tracks.

I made my own router table and incorporated the sliding table from, again IIRC, one of the less expensive Kity table saws. It cost about £140 from Axminster and unlike the Ryobi, does have proper roller bearings.

John
 

Dicky

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I have RPMS-R table and modified it similar to Philly's with a little inspiration from big NORM! I have kept the sliding table though and added 2 estate car boot lid gas struts (free from a scrap car) to ease the raising of the table, heavy bxxxxr that it is. I found the foot print with a wheel base on the standard frame was a little too big for my work shop. If I knew how to post pictures, I would show you what I've done. All in all a good bit of kit which enabled me to make all my rail and stile panelling for our newly refubished living room.

Dicky
 

ike

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If anyone is interested, here are the mods I did to my Woodcut (Ryobi/Record) table.

I machined a recess in the underside to fit the M12V (180 diameter). This makes mounting very easy and exactly repeatable every time.





Fully adjustable clamps make the job easier too.



The router base is moved up much closer to the topside. I don't need a router extension even for my shortest bits which is good - very good.



Next step was to improve the hold downs starting with the top ones.



and side fence.



I made a rather crude but effective full height adjuster for the router.



A Router Raizer would be the ideal solution but as you can see, the sliding table still allows easy access for height adjustment and bit changes.





I made featherboards from 8mm PVC (scrap from local plastics engeering company). Very easy to make starting with stickyback paper template from DXF file (I used Autocad on that occasion) and cut using bandsaw, drillpress and a bit of filing.





I drilled and tapped the throat plate for a stop pin (M6 Socket Caphead screw). This is absolutely essential for edge profiling particularly with a large diameter cutter. I use a 2" x 1-1/2" dia bearing-guided cutter as shown for all sorts of frames - in this case circular oak frames for stained glass lights.





The table is good for larger stuff too.



I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't had time to make make a guard for this setup. Yes, it was erm - "interesting". I strongly advise don't try it - I won't do it unguarded again!

Here's my mod for the 4" dust extractor pipe.



Another tuit is a decent angle fence for the sliding table.

cheers,

Ike
 

ike

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I don't know guys - I gave up with the blasted webspace thing and tried Imagestation. It seems very very slow. The pictures uploaded last night at only 29kb/s and this morning I can read them at less than snail pace. Is there another site that's quicker. I thinks it's why the pictures aren't showing.

Ike
 

RogerS

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Ike

If you want to email them to me I can host them on my webpage if you like? I'll pm you my email address.

I've seen most of them to appreciate that they're really helpful

Roger
 

ike

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Roger,

I got some professional advice just now so I'm going to try again.

<At last - success!>

Ike
 

ATC

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ike":35y37qck said:
If anyone is interested, here are the mods I did to my Woodcut (Ryobi/Record) table.

I machined a recess in the underside to fit the M12V (180 diameter). This makes mounting very easy and exactly repeatable every time.

[/img]

[/img]

Fully adjustable clamps make the job easier too.

[/img]

The router base is moved up much closer to the topside. I don't need a router extension even for my shortest bits which is good - very good.

[/img]

Next step was to improve the hold downs starting with the top ones.

[/img]

and side fence.

[/img]

I made a rather crude but effective full height adjuster for the router.

[/img]

A Router Raizer would be the ideal solution but as you can see, the sliding table still allows easy access for height adjustment and bit changes.

[/img]

[/img]

I made featherboards from 8mm PVC (scrap from local plastics engeering company). Very easy to make starting with stickyback paper template from DXF file (I used Autocad on that occasion) and cut using bandsaw, drillpress and a bit of filing.

[/img]

[/img]

I drilled and tapped the throat plate for a stop pin (M6 Socket Caphead screw). This is absolutely essential for edge profiling particularly with a large diameter cutter. I use a 2" x 1-1/2" dia bearing-guided cutter as shown for all sorts of frames - in this case circular oak frames for stained glass lights.

[/img]

[/img]

The table is good for larger stuff too.

[/img]

I'm ashamed to admit that I haven't had time to make make a guard for this setup. Yes, it was erm - "interesting". I strongly advise don't try it - I won't do it unguarded again!

Here's my mod for the 4" dust extractor pipe.

[/img]

Another tuit is a decent angle fence for the sliding table.

cheers,

Ike

Hi, I would very much like to see the pictures in your build. Could you make them available again?
The links to pics were only visible when answering your post, but they turned out to be broken. I am unable to post them here, due to restriction.

Thanks :)
/Jonatan
 

Trevanion

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ScaredyCat":2sf25qhd said:
I wonder if the OP is still here after 12 years... :shock:



.
The last message on his account was June 2018 so fairly recent.
 
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