rust inhibitor?
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Hammerite. :wink:
Nah... I'm interested in this too. I know that WD-40 isn't a good solution, that's for sure. I tend to lightly wipe things with 3-in-1 but I'm sure there are much better methods. I want rust protection without having to wipe off the gunge and risk marking the wood.
Nah... I'm interested in this too. I know that WD-40 isn't a good solution, that's for sure. I tend to lightly wipe things with 3-in-1 but I'm sure there are much better methods. I want rust protection without having to wipe off the gunge and risk marking the wood.
Didn't see that one coming! Really? :?:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mothballs
Reading that ^ doesn't exactly turn me on to that idea.
What about this stuff? I just bought a tin for my new bike and it seems like it could be a good solution?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/GT85-Lubricant- ... B000OYFSIG
Loosens rusted parts, prevents squeaking, penetrates and lubricates rusted and inaccessable parts
Contains PTFE which forms the long lasting protective lubricating film
Displaces water: Drives out moisture from electrical systems in cars, boats and starts wet engines and is also ideal for use on bicycles
Ideal for car valeting to provide a lasting shine on interior plastic trim
Probably not the cheapest though...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mothballs
Reading that ^ doesn't exactly turn me on to that idea.
What about this stuff? I just bought a tin for my new bike and it seems like it could be a good solution?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/GT85-Lubricant- ... B000OYFSIG
Loosens rusted parts, prevents squeaking, penetrates and lubricates rusted and inaccessable parts
Contains PTFE which forms the long lasting protective lubricating film
Displaces water: Drives out moisture from electrical systems in cars, boats and starts wet engines and is also ideal for use on bicycles
Ideal for car valeting to provide a lasting shine on interior plastic trim
Probably not the cheapest though...
jimi43
Established Member
If it's expensive...pick it up and move it into the spare room for the winter...if it's not...wipe it with good quality Camelia Oil.
Jim
p.s. save the WD40 for your car or any spacecraft you have knocking about.... :mrgreen:
Jim
p.s. save the WD40 for your car or any spacecraft you have knocking about.... :mrgreen:
I use Camellia Oil, wax polish, Liberon Lubricating Wax depending on the tool/appliance?
I also don't bring anything wet into the shop and use a few low wattage tubular heaters under my tool cabinets.
Been discussed lots in the past - try a search?
Rod
I also don't bring anything wet into the shop and use a few low wattage tubular heaters under my tool cabinets.
Been discussed lots in the past - try a search?
Rod
woodbloke
Established Member
If your 'shop is purpose built and sealed against the elements, then a dehumidifier is the obvious thing to get buy...mine sucks out about a gallon of fresh water a week :shock: in the summer and if it wasn't in the dh then it would be condensing on my metalwork :x In my 'shop I don't need to bother with any sort of external tool protection, but I give all metal sufraces a wipe with some Camilla Oil just to make doubly sure. However, if your 'shop is a converted garage with lots of condensation inducing features, then I'd go for a purpose built cabinet with a few low wattage bulbs installed - Rob
alan2001":ik3ckdge said:Oi... give us a hand up the stairs with this motorbike, please?jimi43":ik3ckdge said:
This Camelia Oil does seem to get mentioned an awful lot. Seems like good stuff.
Charles like it too :mrgreen:
barkwindjammer
Established Member
ACF50 -google it, use it on everything that needs protecting, can even be sprayed into switches and other electrical gear-a little goes a long way.
My mate bought a de humidifier, sung its praises, "cost plenty" he said, "collects buckets of water", my other mate who is an HVAC engineer informed him that unless he was using his 'electrical water collector' in a small building well sealed (nearly hermatic) then he was effectively using his electricity to 'dry out' the atmosphere around and within the Central Scotland area-that convinced me not to spend my hard earned on an "excellent purchase".
My mate bought a de humidifier, sung its praises, "cost plenty" he said, "collects buckets of water", my other mate who is an HVAC engineer informed him that unless he was using his 'electrical water collector' in a small building well sealed (nearly hermatic) then he was effectively using his electricity to 'dry out' the atmosphere around and within the Central Scotland area-that convinced me not to spend my hard earned on an "excellent purchase".
jimi43
Established Member
My dehumidifier almost doubled my electricity bill for the workshop...needless to say...I could go to Japan to get my Camelia Oil and still be in pocket....it's up for sale now! :wink:
Jim
Jim
I'm a bit surprised to see this thread has got this far without any mention of the rust inhibitors sold at Workshop Heaven.
One small pot (£6) is supposed to protect a cupboard or tool box for ages, and there's a bulk deal at £33 if you want ten. I've not used them myself as I'm glad to say my workshop is in a bone-dry basement where nothing ever goes rusty, but I'm sure I've read favourable comments on here before.
One small pot (£6) is supposed to protect a cupboard or tool box for ages, and there's a bulk deal at £33 if you want ten. I've not used them myself as I'm glad to say my workshop is in a bone-dry basement where nothing ever goes rusty, but I'm sure I've read favourable comments on here before.
AES
Established Member
Lots of people "nay say" WD 40, but personally I've never had problems with it all (apart from the price).
But personally the very best I've found (based on several personal recommendations) is "Duck Oil" (by Duchams). That's IF you can get it - it's not here (Switzerland) and last trip to UK I had a helluva job to get it (eventually I got the last tin at a Halfords branch).
BUT I have to say that I'm lucky as I'm in the cellar and that's both dry and heated.
Krgds
AES
But personally the very best I've found (based on several personal recommendations) is "Duck Oil" (by Duchams). That's IF you can get it - it's not here (Switzerland) and last trip to UK I had a helluva job to get it (eventually I got the last tin at a Halfords branch).
BUT I have to say that I'm lucky as I'm in the cellar and that's both dry and heated.
Krgds
AES
jimi43
Established Member
AES":pspo7cnj said:
I think you may have answered your own reasoning?
The biggest problem comes when the metal is cold but the air is both warmer and damper...as this causes condensation on the steel or iron.
As has been said before...you can either barrier this or remove the problem....hence my solution of moving all my infills to my back bedroom for the winter.
Certain steels and iron are more susceptible to corrosion than others...some cannot be moved and so you have to prevent the problem by one of the two solutions. Heating...even slightly above ambient...can prevent "dew" forming...and is excellent...the lightbulb in the cupboard idea is once solution...some have mounted high watt resistors on machines to gently heat them...etc.
The barrier solution can either be inhibitors or oils or both...Matthew does sell excellent products...I was surprised how well the vapour tubs worked...but they were in drawers....
Renaissance wax is used by the British Museum to protect items but they are in a controlled environment....
That being said...it is an excellent product for protecting old tools in my experience.
For longer term storage I use this wax (click pic to go to WSH page):
It looks expensive but a little goes a LONG way...I still have a tub from many moons ago!
Jim
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