Routing straight lines

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Some people seem to like complicating straight forward stuff!!!
Load of rubbish.
 
doctor Bob":2big3shp said:
Some people seem to like complicating straight forward stuff!!!
Load of rubbish.

How is the best way to router a straight line in the middle of some wood if the side fence is not big enough?
 
And watch the direction of travel in relation to the fence; so the cutter is pulling the router in towards the fence and not trying to pull away from it e.g. fence behind the router as you face it and cutting left to right.
 
I think I am going to take the middle ground - yes it is a simple, easy to use jig, and easy to make as well. I probably won't be making one though, as I don't do enough routing to make it worthwhile. I also have my trusty router table (scrap ply) with super dooper fence (scrap wood), which will probably do the job too.

I wrote "scrap ply" above,but is there actually such a thing? Scrap to me is just wood doesn't have a use yet, unless the termites have eaten too much of it. Then it's probably firewood.
 
It seems pointless to me when a straight edge and ruler will do the same job but both can also be used for other purposes. I dont think its worth giving the thing shop space when its finished. All right for you factory unit guys, but when every woodworking thing I own has to fit into a 3 x 5 metre garage, alongside all the paint cans and the dust sheets and the tile adhesives and the, and the, ....multi purpose is the name of the game and I dont have the space to store something that dedicated.

Scrap wood, is just offcut wood that is waiting to be used again. Once its too small to be used again, then its firewood and my neighbours get it delivered for free. 8)
 
While any old straight edge will do the job, I do prefer being able to mark a line and just cut to it like that rather than then measuring back from that line to mark another line.

But I'd probably just make 2 spacer blocks the right width. And then lose them.
 
sunnybob":3k07negr said:
It seems pointless to me when a straight edge and ruler will do the same job but both can also be used for other purposes. I dont think its worth giving the thing shop space when its finished. All right for you factory unit guys, but when every woodworking thing I own has to fit into a 3 x 5 metre garage, alongside all the paint cans and the dust sheets and the tile adhesives and the, and the, ....multi purpose is the name of the game and I dont have the space to store something that dedicated.

Scrap wood, is just offcut wood that is waiting to be used again. Once its too small to be used again, then its firewood and my neighbours get it delivered for free. 8)

How will a straight edge and ruler do the same job? (without a lot of manual measuring and farting about) her jig basically works like a track saw, where you place the track against your cut line. Simple.

i.e there needs to be an offset that takes into account the router base and router bit involved.

I almost never have scrap plywood as it's so damn expensive. So if I am going to make a jig, I'll make one that is somewhat adjustable.

I don't really see the problem with her jig though? yes it can be as simple as a bit of ply and an offset fence, but then you lose depth of cut, where as with hers you keep the full depth of cut. Maybe an issue, maybe not.

Also - it's a jig. It's supposed to make work that little bit more easier, accurate and repeatable.

Whatever works!
 
As I said, space.
I can measure with a ruler which is being used all day long. I can use a straight edge, which is used constantly used for many other things.
Or I can make a jig that will cost some money (piano hinges aint cheap) that is only fir for one purpose, and even then, only for one router. I have five routers. Would I make 5 of those and store them somewhere? :roll: :roll: :roll:
Especially as I have a router table with a fence. :lol: 8)
 
sunnybob":1tq6grc0 said:
As I said, space.
I can measure with a ruler which is being used all day long. I can use a straight edge, which is used constantly used for many other things.
Or I can make a jig that will cost some money (piano hinges aint cheap) that is only fir for one purpose, and even then, only for one router. I have five routers. Would I make 5 of those and store them somewhere? :roll: :roll: :roll:
Especially as I have a router table with a fence. :lol: 8)

You're taking the router to the workpiece (instead of the workpiece to the router table) for a reason. Size.

If you're really going to measure that out by hand. Go for it.
I still think you missed the intention of the jig, but hey ho.
 
The jig would require me to re-think the way I use the router. It works to the centre of the cutter, not the edge, which is how I would lay stuff out. Think I'll pass.
 
sunnybob":2ci4b4vm said:
As I said, space.
I can measure with a ruler which is being used all day long. I can use a straight edge, which is used constantly used for many other things.
Or I can make a jig that will cost some money (piano hinges aint cheap) that is only fir for one purpose, and even then, only for one router. I have five routers. Would I make 5 of those and store them somewhere? :roll: :roll: :roll:
Especially as I have a router table with a fence. :lol: 8)

Bob maybe you need to have a few less routers, you'd have more room then :p

I only have 1. Well 2. No actually its 3. 4 with the Stanley 71. That my last offer.
 
Are you old enough to remember the Boby Darin song "multiplication"? :roll: :lol:

I've just realised theres 6 of the beggars.
To be fair, 2 are surplus to requirements 8)
 
This jig is actually nice for (as she says) routing inside a board. If one had a lot of such slots to do it would be worth setting it up. Of course it won't help you set up for trimming an edge. I think it would speed up doing a lot of housing joints, such as for a bookcase.

I have spacer pieces (made quite well out of Tufnol, so they are distinct enough not to lose) set at the cutting width for a particular router and particular cutter (actually I make one spacer serve for two or three routers by cutting slots and steps). My method is to draw the line where I want the edge, push the tips of two knives (eg scalpels) into the line, set the spacers against them then set the straight edge against the spacers. These have saved me quite a bit of time over the years, and they are always precise.

As always, it depends on the work and the way you like to work.
 
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