Routing MDF?

[MichaelM]

Hello all,

I want to make up some of TGV and bead panelling as per the profile below and I was wondering if MR MDF would be suitable? It's a material I am relatively unfamiliar with in so far as machining it goes and my cursory research on it does not fill me with hope.



This profile is taken from some existing timber panelling and with the bits I have, I can get close to it. In fact the only real difference is that the pencil bead will not be recessed below the surface, rather being somewhat flush I would imagine.

It would appear that whilst MDF may not be so bad for TGV, the pencil bead might be an issue when it comes to painting given that it is routed on the surface. It would also appear that MDF will knacker my £200 odd quids worth of brand new Wealden cutters in short order. Now, I don't mind sacrificing a few saw blades while dimensioning the stuff but wrecking the more expensive yet essential cutters is anathema to me.

Is this information correct and would I be better off using a different material?

Thanks,

Michael

 

[MattMoore]

you can buy mdf sheets with a very similar bead already machined into it. it will be in 8x4 sheets so will just need dimensioning and will save your cutters. I will try and find out the exact name of the boards for you.

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[Stormer1940]

You might be talking about this stuff from Wickes http://www.wickes.co.uk/mdf-beaded-pane ... vt/190140/

As Matt says you can get larger sheets but you may have to go to a sheet material supplier to get some...

The sheets from James Lathams are 3050mm x 1215mm

https://www.google.co.uk/search?sugexp= ... ofiled+mdf

 

[MichaelM]

Thanks fellas but the boss wants individual tongue and groove boards circa 150mm wide in keeping with the old house. Quality timber would of course be preferable but cost is an issue and it is after all going to be painted anyway so I can salve my conscience somewhat with that. It's a pity thus far I have been unable to identify any fairly local stockists of anything even remotely similar to what I am after.

In the meantime, if push were to come to shove, can anybody tell me what is the expected lifespan of the aforementioned TCT bits when working this material and would the bead really be a pig to paint?

Is there any other cheap, workable, readily available, stable timber that you can recommend? I will admit to thinking of softwood at one point but the thought of sealing all those knots, filling the multitude of inevitable holes, the warping and cupping etc, etc just puts me off.

Thanks,

Michael

 

[MattMoore]

tulip wood/ poplar would be another choice to do it in solid. machines up very nicely and paints extremely well. would need machining up to dimensions before moulding

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[rannndy]

routing mdf is no problem, i have router bits from wealden done a hell of a lot with the cutters no problem at all. the routed area you can treat with a mixture of pva glue and water mix it about 20% glue.
john

 

[Teckel]

Doing that job in a high density mdf will be perfect. It will machine excellent and paint very well. I machine a lot of mdf and it is ok on tooling.

 

[custard]

I'm with Teckel, no problems doing T&G in MDF. If there's acres of it then prepping the edges for painting might get a bit dreary, but carbide router tooling's up to the job. Just get your dust extraction/dust mask sorted and you'll be fine.

 

[xy mosian]

Would it be worth looking in a reclamation yard?
xy

 

[Lee Brubaker]

Iam surprised that nobody has mentioned that when routing MDF you had better have excellent dust extraction PLUS use of facemasks. Breathing in MDF material puts a glaze on lung sacs that is PERMANENT & MDF is famous for generation of excessive dust when machining it.
I simply do not use this product because of the above.

Lee

 

[custard]

Iam surprised that nobody has mentioned that when routing MDF you had better have excellent dust extraction PLUS use of facemasks. Breathing in MDF material puts a glaze on lung sacs that is PERMANENT & MDF is famous for generation of excessive dust when machining it.
I simply do not use this product because of the above.

Lee

Quite agree Lee, which is why I did mention it!

 

[MichaelM]

tulip wood/ poplar would be another choice to do it in solid. machines up very nicely and paints extremely well. would need machining up to dimensions before moulding

Thanks for the advice Matt. That certainly would be an attractive alternative should I find myself having to abandon MDF. It isn't a timber I have come across. Is it expensive?

routing mdf is no problem, i have router bits from wealden done a hell of a lot with the cutters no problem at all. the routed area you can treat with a mixture of pva glue and water mix it about 20% glue.
john

Doing that job in a high density mdf will be perfect. It will machine excellent and paint very well. I machine a lot of mdf and it is ok on tooling.

I'm with Teckel, no problems doing T&G in MDF. If there's acres of it then prepping the edges for painting might get a bit dreary, but carbide router tooling's up to the job. Just get your dust extraction/dust mask sorted and you'll be fine.

It's good to hear my bits will be up to the job. Thanks for the reassurance fellas! As for the routed area, I can't use PVA on it unfortunately as I am pretty sure the paint to be used is water based.

Might I enquire about the high density stuff? Is it expensive and is it easy to obtain in 12mm thickness? The reason I ask is that I recently enquired from the local merchant about 12mm moisture resistant MDF having read here that is considered much better than standard only to be told that I would have to take a pallet of it. That's a little bit more than I need right now.

On that very subject, if the HD stuff is too expensive or unobtainable, would the MR be of any use to me?

Would it be worth looking in a reclamation yard?
xy

The problem is that cost is a major factor hence the reason I thought of MDF as a material. The only salvage yard I considered agreeable has just closed and it's competitors in this area could not be considered cheap for anything unfortunately.

Iam surprised that nobody has mentioned that when routing MDF you had better have excellent dust extraction PLUS use of facemasks. Breathing in MDF material puts a glaze on lung sacs that is PERMANENT & MDF is famous for generation of excessive dust when machining it.
I simply do not use this product because of the above.

Lee

Thanks Lee, and your advice is much appreciated. As I said, I have no real experience of MDF and whilst I know it is nasty stuff, I have not yet had the opportunity to experience the levels of dust associated with it. I have asthma so I can well do without breathing in anything other than air and it is my intention to do the job outside while wearing a decent mask which I have yet to purchase (any advice fellas on that one?). I will also hook my Axminster RDC100H dust extractor up as well just as a belt and braces approach. I have 100 4ft boards to do so it's going to be a dirty job one way or another.

Sorry for the late reply. It has stopped raining briefly here in Ireland and this year above all others, one must quite literally make hay while the sun shines.

Thanks to all,

Michael

 

[adidat]

im pretty sure your cutters can be re sharpened for a very small fee :duno:

adidat

 

[SammyQ]

Duh. Skim reading mistake. Removed. Sam