Router table

[Baldhead]

Due to lack of funds I intend to make my own router table, to keep the costs down I will be using some leftover kitchen worktop (38mm), I am thinking of routing out the router base shape just deep enough so that when the rods (the rods that connect the router parallel guide) are connected they just sit on the underside of the table, I will then be able to use these to clamp the router in place with a couple of brackets, has anyone tries this?

Baldhead

Edit - Like this http://www.rockler.com/how-to/easy-to-b ... ter-table/

 

[Mr T]

You would need to recess the bars deeper than in the article else the depth of cut will be much reduced by the thickness of the top. Have you considered an insert ? http://www.axminster.co.uk/ujk-technology-10mm-phenolic-router-table-insert-plate

Chris

 

[andersonec]

As Mr T says, you will lose too much depth of cut using 38mm material and just cutting in deep enough to inset the rods. Look closely at demo in your link and you will see he has used ply which is just thick enough to inset the rods but the router base is flush with the top of the ply. Not too sure about his top because just clamping against the rods is not a very accurate and secure method and could allow movement of the router, fractions would matter. One other problem, you are going to have to remove your router every time you need to change a cutter and how large will the hole be to let the cutter through, you have no means of adjusting the hole size for different cutters. Get yourself an insert.

Andy

 

[Steve Maskery]

+1 for an insert of some kind.

I've had several over the years. The first was a plain piece of 6mm Al. It was OK for a first go.

The second was a black plastic one with grey and red reducing inserts. It was truly awful. It is sold under a variety of brand names, and the manufacturers point out that the inserts are very slightly domed "to improve accuracy". My opinion is that that is bovine colonic waste. They are domed because it is too difficult to make plastic properly flat. It might make it very marginally better for edge moulding, but it completely screws you up for any slotting or complex edge moulding. The insert should be F-L-A-T, flat.

I then bought one from Tilgear. Al, a selection of inserts, not at all bad. The downside was that the inserts were held in by 3 tiny screws, so it was a bit of a chore to change them. Also the biggest aperture was not quite as big as the Rousseau one and there was one panel-raising bit I couldn't use with it. Not a problem any more, I don't have the panel-raising bit...

When I get what's left of my RT into the workshop, I have one of these to fit:
http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/epages ... MLP1613-AL

Yes it is expensive, but it is by far and away the best insert I have ever had. I shall fit it with a Router Raizer and Xtreme Xtension, as before. All three are available from Peter Sefton. I don't expect ever to have to replace this one.

S

 

[Fat ferret]

Struggle to keep up with these threads but here's a simple router table I made, quarter sheet of inch ply, quarter sheet of 1/4" ply and about half an hours work, just get all holes right works a treat.

Pictures explain better.

https://flic.kr/p/pDyTM3

 

[Mike.S]

+1 for an insert of some kind.

When I get what's left of my RT into the workshop, I have one of these to fit:
http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/epages ... MLP1613-AL

+2 for Incra insert

Just fitted one to my home made table (WIP), alongside the Incra fence and positioner, all from Peter Sefton's, and it's an excellent bit of kit.

 

[RogerP]

Due to lack of funds I intend to make my own router table, to keep the costs down I will be using some leftover kitchen worktop (38mm), ............

Depends on the plunge range of your router. If it's a Triton it could work to a degree as having 68mm maximum plunge depth it would still leave you with 30mm above the table. What is the maximum plunge of your router? At maximum extension will it leave enough above the table?

The extra plates/inserts that have been suggested will unfortunately cost quite a bit and I think having to spend that much more is not what you want to do.

 

[Tetsuaiga]

I don't think the idea of clamping the rods down would be all that good, the router bit might wobble off angle if much force were applied.

I've just made a new one with 2x 18mm mdf sheets glued up. Aluminium plate, mine came with grub screws for fine adjustment but I managed to rout out perfectly so it doesn't need them =).

 

[SammyQ]

Take heart, your initial idea is fine. John Lloyd published just such a no-frills router table in a recent British Woodworking issue. Yes, there is a difference between your chipboard and glue top and his ply one, but the concept is sound, just the execution details need consideration.

Sam

 

[Owl]

As Sammy said :

http://woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/WebRoo ... ension.pdf

 

[monkeybiter]

FWIW my router table [on the TS outfeed] is MFC with the router base clamped underneath, I have routed a rebated hole for my largest cutters [~70mm?] such that inserts made from laminate fllooring fit perfectly. There is a collet extension which not only allows full cutter use but also above the table tool change. I have used an old screw jack for the raising mech. It cost the price of the extension, the rest was 'stock'.