Router table insert

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wizer":25iqofla said:
Is it possible to have steel plate with alu rings? I'm thinking that the rings could have magnets sunk into them to fit into the plate?

Yeah - I think the collective had decided that the rings would be 3mm thick for both the AL plate (8mm) and MS plate (6mm) - that way folk could mix and match.

Standard is steel rings with steel plate & AL rings with AL plate unless otherwise requested (you just have to speak up) - as Sometimewoodworker has pointed out.
 
Updated the spreadsheet - the column marked "checked" indicates that qtys\type have been adjusted.

Hopefully the other names on the list will be getting in touch to confirm one way or the other. Probably send out some PM's.
 
Hi,

I've made other arrangements now, and much though I'd like to I can't stretch for one of these.

Dibs-h":1pshxkvt said:
- 2 types. 1 Aluminum (8mm plate & 3mm rings) and 1 M\S (6mm plate & 3mm rings).
- 3 "rings" to be supplied, 30mm inner hole, 50mm inner hole & 0 hole (referred to as disc).
Just an observation - if the intention of the ring with the 30mm hole is to accept the PC style guide bushes, note that the flange of the guide bush will protrude above the table surface unless a shoulder is added into the ring.
You can just about see the shoulder in this woodpecker product: http://www.woodpeck.com/unilift.html

Given the rings are only 3mm thick I don't know if there's enough room for a shoulder - my Kreg plate has much thicker rings.

rgds all,
graham.
 
Wow, when I started reading this post I was sure I would be too late to join in. Great stuff, although my head is spinning after reading 17 pages!

Please put me down for two plates in mild steel and three sets of rings in aluminium.

I've never tapped a thread into a hole before - how hard is it to get right?

Also feel free to call me Mr Thickie, but am I right in assuming you mount the router by drilling out the appropriate holes, countersinking them from the top of the plate and then screwing through? Those holes should not be threaded, right?

Finally, being the owner of an old Land Rover, I have to mention galvanic corrosion for those intending to mix mild steel and aluminium as I am. Having the rings sit slightly below the level of the plate will be good as it will make room for a layer of paint on the rings before I shim them up to level.

Thanks

Ian
 
ijam":2h3sjwt4 said:
I've never tapped a thread into a hole before - how hard is it to get right?
Not hard just keep the tap vertical

ijam":2h3sjwt4 said:
Also feel free to call me Mr Thickie, but am I right in assuming you mount the router by drilling out the appropriate holes, countersinking them from the top of the plate and then screwing through? Those holes should not be threaded, right?

That is it.
 
I'm sorry if this seems a lazy question now but what's the price like ? I imagine it's buried somewhere in the 17 pages !! :(

Rob
 
Oldwood - We are expecting under £20 per set.

I will be sending drawings back out for re-quoting & to at least 1 other firm (who have quoted me for something else at shockingly low rates).

Tenfingers - the 2 rings with holes (30mm hole & 50mm hole) these have nothing to do with PC or other guide bushes. The choice for teh hole diameters was almost arbitrary choices and if the collective want them changing - no probs.

Spreadsheet adjusted in light of recent posts.
 
Spreadsheet updated. Looks like we'll end up with 25 sets in M\S and 20 in AL.

I'll be doing the drawings this weekend - (I haven't got a deal doing going on with the shop at the mo). Will post them up as soon as they are done - probably Sunday afternoon.
 
Hi,

Do they come with rings as standard? if so mine is correct if not steel plate and rings please.


Pete
 
Hi Dibs - maybe two more sets yet; myself and a friend. But I'm going to have to read through the 17 pages to understand what the difference is between Al and Steel, and why one would want to mix the materials - and actually what the rings are for (don't have any on my present table!)

If someone is kind enough to explain all that before this evenings marathon, you will be saving considerable eye and brain strain ! :D :D

Rob
 
Pete - yes a set is assumed to be 1 plate & 2 rings (one with 30mm hole & other with 50mm hole) and 1 with no hole (referred to as disc).

The only reason there would be an entry in the Notes column is if folk wanted a M\S plate but AL rings\discs, etc. i.e. mix & match. No entry but a number in the M\S or AL column indicates rings\discs of the same material as the plate.

Oldwood - AL - and Steel - not much difference. Probably for the reason some folk prefer shoes and some folk prefer trainers! :lol: It's personal preference. I suspect the reason folk want a Steel plate and AL rings\disc is that they can drill the AL disc easily. Something which might not be the case with a M\S disc (for them anyway). The reason you would use rings is to reduce the gap between the cutting edge and the edge of the hole. A 100mm dia hole in the plate with a 20mm dia cutter - leaves an awfully big gap.

HIH

Dibs

p.s. If folk think the 30mm & 50mm dia holes aren't quite right and feel that 2 other sizes would suit better - speak up. Can't really do different sizes for different folk - we'd have to settle on 2 sizes (probably).
 
Many thanks Dibs - the mud is just that bit clearer; possibly clear enough to proceed with a decision over the weekend.

Cheers and thanks for saving me from a long wade!

Rob
 
I decided that I wanted a mild steel plate because I'm interested in sticking things to it with magnets (like the magswitch stuff, although it's pricey).

On the other hand I chose aluminium rings because they are softer in the (hopefully very unlikely) event of the cutter touching them. I am also planning to plunge a cutter through the centre of the solid disk to make a zero clearence insert, although I might chicken out and make an mdf or plastic disc for that.

Finally, I want to experiment with embedding some rare earth magnets in the rings to hold them in place. Once again I will need to see if that really works... :)
 
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