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devonwoody

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I have in mind doing some 1/4" or 6mm mortices in the near future but cannot seem to locate a supplier for router cutters with at least 1 1/2" length cutters.
Are there such things. Or what is the longest available?
 

Aragorn

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I've never seen any ¼" cutters that long.
I get about 23-25mm depth of cut with my ¼" cutters in the Leigh FMT.
Is there any particular reason you want the extra depth of cut? If you're doing a through mortice, you can cut from both sides (you get the extra depth and also prevent tear-out)
If you just want the strength - you get plenty from a 1" x ¼" tenon. If it's a high-load joint, can you use a double M&T to increase glue-surface area?
 

devonwoody

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Thanks for replies, I had forgotten I could enter from the other side!!!
Also checked out the henderson link , the problem with82mm length is that the bit would most probably protrude below base plate at start of operation, so plunging would not be an option?
 

johnjin

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Hi Devon

The 82 m/m length is the total length of the tool.
At least 45 m/m of that will be shank.
I'm not sure if that helps

Best of luck

John
 

Aragorn

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DW
82mm shouldn't protrude below base plate level. You can always start with the bit chucked in fully, make a few plunges and then lower the bit in the collet for the final depth.
 

Dewy

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I've used HSS end mills for metal cutting in my router. They have a spiral that clears the waste away well. Better in a router table so the waste falls awy. A 1/4" LEM has approx 1 1/2" cutting edge. I have a few 3 flute that I use for cutting a slot for bread board edges. Standard end mills have 4 flutes or slot drills that have 2. They need a smaller hole drilled before plunging into it with the cutter. If you can get any, don't get the ones with a screw on the end. They would mess up the router collet.
 

Chris Knight

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Devon,
I sympathize with your search for longer router bits - however, I have to say that the proportions of your mortice look odd, even for a through mortice. A quarter inch thick tenon one and a half inches long is a structural nonsense. If you wanted the strength the length implies, it would need to be at least three quarters of an inch thick, arguably an inch thick.

If you just want the decorative effect of a through mortice, make it really decorative and glue on an apparent exposed tenon-end on the show side - this is often done in store-bought furniture.
 

Aragorn

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Are you sure about that Chris???
With respect, in the structural tests I've seen, tenon thickness doesn't play that much of a part in their strength for holding a joint together. The cheek surface area of a 1" x ¼" tenon is the same as for a 1" x ½" tenon (or whatever) and so the glue total surface area is about the same.
In the tests I've seen structural integrity was incredibly strong in all well made through-M&Ts regardless of tenon thickness, because there is so much surface area.
Just a thought!
 

Keith Smith

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I regularly make 50mm deep 6mm mortises and it is not uncommon for me to make them anything up to 100mm.

Chris is right though in that a 25mm deep mortise has enough glue area for a strong joint, in fact I have made doors using biscuits and they are still fine years later.

However if you stress a shallow m&t the joint won't necessarily fail but the stile can split down its length, a deep mortise in a thin frame will support the stile and prevent this.

Keith
 

Chris Knight

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Aragorn,

I think my brain was out of gear when I posted - for some reason I was carrying a much longer tenon in my head - would you believe 5 1/2? - despite writing the correct figure. Even then, I was exaggerating with my proposed thicknesses - call it a brainfart or too much wine most likely :oops:

Apologies to all for misleading anyone and thanks to you and Keith for being so polite with my stupidity!
 
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