Woodbloke66
Which jigs for the proedge do you think are appalling quality? In what respect?
Just curious
Ian
Which jigs for the proedge do you think are appalling quality? In what respect?
Just curious
Ian
Robert Sorby ProEdge Sharpening System
- Thread starter okeydokey
- Start date
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Just made some jigs for my new Pro Edge, might be of common interest. The first one a square edge jig, more or less a copy of the one you can buy. The brown thing on the tool rest is low friction tape. I bought the PESQW when I bought the machine but I found that jig quite bad. Especially since it's made of aluminium it's sliding properties are not super. Also I found shorter things not reaching the belt when used on top of that jig.
The second jig I built is a 12mm bar with attachment that enables "Tormek style" jigs to be used. Especially for wider plane Irons I see this useful since it gives better control. I have placed my 12mm bar above the standard tool rest to not interfere with that. If you want both "belt directions available" you would need a bar below the standard too rest as well, and remove the standard tool rest when using the lower bar.
This is a more or less copy/rip off of the 12mm bar system that you can buy for the Axminster machine.
(Sorry for not perfect pic quality, thought I could upload original photos but needed to be linked so these are taken from pinterest.)
The second jig I built is a 12mm bar with attachment that enables "Tormek style" jigs to be used. Especially for wider plane Irons I see this useful since it gives better control. I have placed my 12mm bar above the standard tool rest to not interfere with that. If you want both "belt directions available" you would need a bar below the standard too rest as well, and remove the standard tool rest when using the lower bar.
This is a more or less copy/rip off of the 12mm bar system that you can buy for the Axminster machine.
(Sorry for not perfect pic quality, thought I could upload original photos but needed to be linked so these are taken from pinterest.)
Very simple, very smart. So obvious no one at Sorby thought of it but the main drawback of the machine if you start to use it outside its basic parameters in lets say an inventive manner. :-" The first adjustable rest (one with the tape) should come as standard. Well done.
If by chance you're selling at the right price I'd be interested in one as I don't have the means of reproducing it myself accurately. Understand if it's just a one off of course and time prohibitive.
Either way, thanks for sharing. Very interesting.
Regards
Chris
If by chance you're selling at the right price I'd be interested in one as I don't have the means of reproducing it myself accurately. Understand if it's just a one off of course and time prohibitive.
Either way, thanks for sharing. Very interesting.
Regards
Chris
Thanks Chris. I have a Tormek as well (which I won't use anymore) and had the round bar idea already from day 1 with the Pro Edge. Then when I saw axminsters version I decided to give it a go.
Sorry but I can't produce and sell these, it wasn't difficult to build but my metal working machine park is kind of sparse so it took me half a day. Main tools used were angle grinder and the Pro Edge itself.
It could be possible to retrofit the axminster round bar but it looks to big in the pics and will interfere with parts on the pro edge. I wanted to keep the standard tool rest on the pro edge (and not take it off and put back on), that will most likely not be possible if retrofitting the axminster bar.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-compound-jig-for-ultimate-edge-103738
Sorry but I can't produce and sell these, it wasn't difficult to build but my metal working machine park is kind of sparse so it took me half a day. Main tools used were angle grinder and the Pro Edge itself.
It could be possible to retrofit the axminster round bar but it looks to big in the pics and will interfere with parts on the pro edge. I wanted to keep the standard tool rest on the pro edge (and not take it off and put back on), that will most likely not be possible if retrofitting the axminster bar.
https://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-compound-jig-for-ultimate-edge-103738
okeydokey
Established Member
Good morning
So about 2 and half years ago I raised this topic and all of the replies were helpful. However I struggled on with the Fox wetstone and its slow but does the job for a diy occasional user. But the thought of getting the Proedge or the Axminster version has come back - they remain hugely expensive (to my mind) for occasional use. Is there a similar but cheapo version out there that I haven't found yet?
So about 2 and half years ago I raised this topic and all of the replies were helpful. However I struggled on with the Fox wetstone and its slow but does the job for a diy occasional user. But the thought of getting the Proedge or the Axminster version has come back - they remain hugely expensive (to my mind) for occasional use. Is there a similar but cheapo version out there that I haven't found yet?
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
An old thread!
The Pro edge sees to suit the jig fans but otherwise it's just an expensive but well made linisher.
My latest preferred option is the 12" ali disc which came with my lathe. Velcro pad means instant grit change. It's fast, quiet, very flat, and runs surprisingly cool. Could do it with a ply disc on a faceplate instead
I sold the Proedge.
The Pro edge sees to suit the jig fans but otherwise it's just an expensive but well made linisher.
My latest preferred option is the 12" ali disc which came with my lathe. Velcro pad means instant grit change. It's fast, quiet, very flat, and runs surprisingly cool. Could do it with a ply disc on a faceplate instead
I sold the Proedge.
Lons
Established Member
The OP doesn't mention having a lathe Jacob and even if he did unless it has an outboard facility for the faceplate it's highly inconvenient IMO (from experience) to remove what you're turning and fit the damn thing to touch up a gouge. Different if you do have outboard or can make a disk sander from an old motor as I agree they can be effective.
Okeydokey
The Pro-edge and Axi version are definitely overpriced but I haven't seen a cheaper version anywhere and it does the job it was designed for very well, I certainly wouldn't sell mine and I have a Tormek T7 as well. The Pro-edge is excellent at re shaping tools and for fast repeatable edges in seconds on turning tools but I certainly wouldn't use it for my bench chisels or carving gouges, the Tormek also works well just slow and messy but whatever you do you'll still need oil. water or diamond stones to hone and followed by a strop if you're inclined to do so, my personal preference is for diamond plates which work for me.
There are loads of sharpening threads on here most of which mention those machines and all the other methods so you'll have to search but there are as many differing opinions as there are woodworkers and most of the threads are very long and argumentative so you'll have to pick the bones out of it all.
Are you anywhere near an Axminster store? Once we're back to normal business they have regular demos of their machines and you could probably get hands on.
Okeydokey
The Pro-edge and Axi version are definitely overpriced but I haven't seen a cheaper version anywhere and it does the job it was designed for very well, I certainly wouldn't sell mine and I have a Tormek T7 as well. The Pro-edge is excellent at re shaping tools and for fast repeatable edges in seconds on turning tools but I certainly wouldn't use it for my bench chisels or carving gouges, the Tormek also works well just slow and messy but whatever you do you'll still need oil. water or diamond stones to hone and followed by a strop if you're inclined to do so, my personal preference is for diamond plates which work for me.
There are loads of sharpening threads on here most of which mention those machines and all the other methods so you'll have to search but there are as many differing opinions as there are woodworkers and most of the threads are very long and argumentative so you'll have to pick the bones out of it all.
Are you anywhere near an Axminster store? Once we're back to normal business they have regular demos of their machines and you could probably get hands on.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Just a suggestion - he might have a lathe for all we know.
My disc is inboard so not much use when turning, but also has a table and is very useful for other woodwork, surprisingly precise - would do for picture frame mitre fine adjustment, small items, boxes etc.
I've bought some velcro for an 8" outboard ply disc sander for turning/sharpening haven't got around to it yet
Lons
Established Member
Reading the posts he made it would suggest not however as you say we don't know either way of course.
I have a largish Axi belt sander with a 250mm disk purpose made for the job so personally wouldn't want one on my lathes but as I said they are useful
okeydokey
Established Member
Thank you all for your thoughts
I do have a lathe - no outboard spindle though, maybe Ill keep my cash in my pocket; a ply disk on a faceplate with velcro adhesive pad/sandpaper/ seems a good way and I could make a table to fit into the banjo.
Trial and error to get the angles about right? or a wooden slope/guide? sitting on the table?
Does this sound sensible?
cheers
I do have a lathe - no outboard spindle though, maybe Ill keep my cash in my pocket; a ply disk on a faceplate with velcro adhesive pad/sandpaper/ seems a good way and I could make a table to fit into the banjo.
Trial and error to get the angles about right? or a wooden slope/guide? sitting on the table?
Does this sound sensible?
cheers
I made a ply disc for my lathe, it warped and was useless. Something less likely to warp?
Could I ask why not, Lons ?
I'm seriously considering buying a ProEdge atm, but it's intended use would be, mainly,
bench chisels and plane irons.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Yep. it's called "freehand" and it was utterly normal until the modern sharpening craze kicked off.
shed9
establiSHED member
If you have a decent grinder with enough grunt, another option would be to get a decent tool rest (or even a Tormek BGM-100) and a CBN wheel. Lower cost but potentially very good and fast results.
Lons
Established Member
I should probably rephrase that Daniel and say that the only reason I would use it is when I needed to reshape the primary bevel, I would then hone the edge to suit my needs, this is in fact what I do whereas with turning tools the edge straight from the po-edge is excellent for the job in hand.
I would never profess to be a sharpening expert, I don't enjoy it at all and want to spend as little time as I need to so I tend to get it right initially then just regular quick hone in between when needed.
With a fine grade belt you can get a polished edge so just my preference.
I probably abuse the pro-edge as well as I hang on to old belts, they can be changed in seconds if you leave the side off, and on many occasions do a bit of metal shaping for which is it very useful.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Thicker ply. It'd need mounting on a face plate.
maybe, mine was 18mm
Robbo3
Established Member
okeydokey said:
I doubt anyone would be putting a cutting edge on their blades with a belt sander but it would quickly allow the primary bevel to be addressed.
I would suggest that it's more of an amateur vs pro thing. The pro is likely to be sharpening several times a day whereas the amateur maybe only once or even less.
In my case, my 3/4" main chisel is just starting to need a little more effort than it used to after about 6 months whilst my 2 hand planes are still taking off full shavings after over a year since they were last sharpened. That's how little they get used. It's quicker for me to use a jig than to correct my mistakes.
Lons
Established Member
i bought my pro-edge specifically because I have a lathe and as I said previously for turning tools it works very well indeed, literally seconds to touch an edge as you're turning. I don't bother with the guides apart from the rest as you soon get used to what's needed, no tool overheating issues unless you're re shaping a profile. I got mine s/h a few years ago from someone I knew had looked after it and I knew I could get my money back if I didn't like it however it's still here and will be for a long time.
I should add that I have 2 lathes so could easily keep one semi permanently fitted with a disk, tried that and though a cheap option it's not for me.
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