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Rexon Slide Mitre Saw SM2500

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SteveB43

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Hi All,
I'd very much appreciate help, opinion and advice from you all re the best way to go about setting up a mitre saw to cut square. I did read some advice that said you need to start with a long plank that you know is square, then take repeated cuts, adjusting the fence each time until you have a square cut. i did that and unfortunately ran out of wood (if you want to know how to turn 8 ft of wood into very small bits, ask, I'm now an expert.... ](*,) )

I checked the fence to blade with a square, that I also know is square and on both sides. The best I could get with the above method was 3mm out over a cut of 150mm. I haven't changed the supplied Rexon blade over from the supplied 80t multi material blade so will start there. Is there any advice anyone has re dismantling the whole thing and rebuilding to try and improve the 0 degree accuracy or is 3mm over 150mm probably about the best I'd get with this saw.

any advice very warmly welcomed..(or it's ebay...)

Cheers!
 

doorframe

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Hi Steve.

Is your machine somewhat similar in style to this....



or this...




If yes, it may be the smaller version of the Scheppach I am ressurecting (also sold as Rexon). It is certainly capable of being much more accurate than 3mm over 150mm!



Is there any slack in the mitre angle adjustment.... ie... are the 'positive stops' positive? Does the table stop in a definate position, or is there any play?

Mine was terrible. Although it stopped, there was still a couple of mm movement, meaning accuracy was a no-no.

When I removed the table I found the 'sprung' ball bearing was moving due to wear in the casting. Some home-made mods sorted this. The bearing runs against a hardened guide which had also worn to excess. There is a spare guide on the opposite side of the table (or at least there was on mine). After that and some more mods and home made bits, and finally adjusting the fence the machine is very very accurate.

A couple of things worth checking are that there is no play in the slide bar bearings, and that the blade does not 'wobble' laterally like on my useless Axi. (OBVIOUSLY do this check with the power disconnected!!)



HTH,

Roy
 

SteveB43

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Hi Roy,
Thanks for the info, yes I think I'm going to have to resort to taking the thing apart and checking for play and that the table is correctly aligned. One of the checks I looked at was how the sets of screw holes either side of the blade for the fence were in alignment, I think these were almost 2 cm out...
Also where the saw mitre angle is zero is clearly not zero, an adjustment of the table should help there. Post doing all of that, I'm going to build a new fence out of MDF that the out side can be adjusted to give you 90 across a piece..
What were the home made mods you had to resort to?


BTW,
Rico is a facebook friend and I've been a fan of his builds for a while. Some here may deride his approach but I think all of his builds utilizing doors and what is essentially scrap wood turned out great. I've found him a real inspiration & You've got to start somewhere...
 

doorframe

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Hi Steve. For the play in the sprung ball I had to replace the casting with a piece of 6mm flat bar drilled to exactly 8mm (ball size). The table / bed had play vertically. A home made plastic washer where it attaches underneath took that up. When turning the table to it's extremes (both left and right) it 'rode' up and distorted due to very poorly designed castings. Some filing sorted that. The table locking knob looked like a truck had run over it so a new one was made. Various other parts were simply missing and have been or are being fabricated. Lots of cleaning (it was ingressed with paint), filing off burrs in the mating surfaces of most of the moving parts, general lubrication and setting up has given me a reasonably accurate machine. It's still work-in-progress but I hope it will replace my Axi soon.

Spares are available from NMA but the prices quoted gave me a major shock. I could have bought a good 2nd hand Makita 1013 if I was going to spend that much. I'm trying to keep this one affordable.

On my Axi there is at least 3mm lateral movement at the blade tip. It starts at 90' to the table but as it's plunged it just leans to 87'. It was poor when I got it and it's just got worse. When the Scheppach is done I'll stripped the Axi and do whatever is needed.

Re Rico... I don't use FB. Didn't know he was on there! I've seen all his shows a thousand times and I'll see them a thousand more!!

Roy
 

SteveB43

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Hi Roy,
Thanks for that info, there is definitely play when on tightening the table locking handle, the blade assembly 'moves' to what I think is then out of square, so some slackness there. It's a case of a take apart and rebuild with customizing as you've had to do.
Really tools should be supplied as a jigsaw, you end up taking them apart to put back together properly. The local power tool sellers are no good either, they just want to return the saw to a repairer and charge you the cost of a new one any way.
Well at least having taking it apart, and hopefully put back together again, will show me more than a manual ever did.
Cheers!
 
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