Retrofit AQ21 weatherseal into existing wooden windows

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will_brum

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Hi, I have 100 year old oak windows and frames, they are in generally good nick but starting to let draughts through in places. I have tried the stick on draught excluders but the gaps are not uniform around the frames so they don't work/fit well. Looking around the AQ21 range looks good as it sits within a groove and pushes out into any gaps. The issue is that I need to create the right channel for them to fit in, a deeper 3mm gap within a shallow 11mm gap. As these windows are in place it's impossible to get a router into position, either with a custom bit or using a couple of standard bits. Has anyone had any experience of retrofitting these and/or got any other ideas on draught proofing the windows. One thought I had was to install them into the casements themselves rather than the frame, would this cause any other issues?
 

Doug71

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There is a tool available for retrofitting draught strip but it's not cheap and I'm not sure which strip works best with it


I have fitted AQ21 into the casements before and it worked fine 👍
 

RobinBHM

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Hi, I have 100 year old oak windows and frames, they are in generally good nick but starting to let draughts through in places. I have tried the stick on draught excluders but the gaps are not uniform around the frames so they don't work/fit well. Looking around the AQ21 range looks good as it sits within a groove and pushes out into any gaps. The issue is that I need to create the right channel for them to fit in, a deeper 3mm gap within a shallow 11mm gap. As these windows are in place it's impossible to get a router into position, either with a custom bit or using a couple of standard bits. Has anyone had any experience of retrofitting these and/or got any other ideas on draught proofing the windows. One thought I had was to install them into the casements themselves rather than the frame, would this cause any other issues?

I have in the past retrofitted Aquamac 21 to doors and windows by making up a small stop bead about 24mm x 10mm with a 2.6mm x 8mm rebate.

I then mitred it around the frame with the rebate down to the frame, set back enough to allow for the weatherseal thickness (about 6mm)

once the stop bead is on, the rebate becomes a groove and the aquamac is pushed into it

as a detail the back of the bead can have a chamfer.


obviously it only works on windows where there is sufficient flat on the on the frame

I know its a compromise as its adding a detail to old windows, but it has the advantage of being easy to fit + where windows are twisted, the bead can be adjusted so the weatherseal pressurizes on all 4 sides
 

Jacob

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My experience of trying to service old doors and windows says draught excluders are problematic (except for brush seals at the bottom) and the best way is to refit them, offering up and adjusting so that gaps are closed and if necessary take the hinges in a touch, making sure catches keep them tight shut etc. Similarly with sashes - make sure all meeting surfaces are flat and will sit tight etc. That may be enough to make them less draughty but you can always add the stick-on stuff for a little extra.
Machining slots for draught strips is too drastic and leads to complications - not necessary if you set them up properly in the first place
 

niall Y

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Another way of doing it - if you have enough meat on the casements - is to fit an additional stop on top of the existing ones, into which you have routed the required channel, I tend to favour AQ63 for windows. And if you're starting from scratch you'll need a special router cutter which is quite expensive.
I too have fitted the seal into the casements, but if you do this you'll have to look out for any nails and pins that might have found their way into the wood over the years, so that you don;t damage the new cutter!
 

will_brum

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Thanks for all the suggestions, a lot to consider. Another approach I saw online is to route a brush type seal into the staff beads, most of which are screwed in so could easily remove and fit. Any thoughts on that method?
 

niall Y

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Thanks for all the suggestions, a lot to consider. Another approach I saw online is to route a brush type seal into the staff beads, most of which are screwed in so could easily remove and fit. Any thoughts on that method?
Staff bead? I take it that these windows are not sliding sashes and that the staff bead in question is a screwed on door/window stop.
If this is removable then it should be easy enough to rout out a channel for a draft excluder . Brush type seals are usually more suited to where things sweep into position, like the bottom of closing door, or where things slide into position e.g. a sliding sash..Though it does all depend on the stiffness of the bristles.
 

will_brum

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Staff bead? I take it that these windows are not sliding sashes and that the staff bead in question is a screwed on door/window stop.
If this is removable then it should be easy enough to rout out a channel for a draft excluder . Brush type seals are usually more suited to where things sweep into position, like the bottom of closing door, or where things slide into position e.g. a sliding sash..Though it does all depend on the stiffness of the bristles.
Thanks Niall, that helps a lot, I'll give it a go
 

mr rusty

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have a look at AQ109 (QL3011) which is what I use. It only needs a 3mm groove - no recess.
 
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