restore or bin?

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digitalbot

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This was being thrown out by a junk shop that I was passing over the weekend. Does anyone think it's worth doing any restoring on it and putting it back into service? I have no idea if it's good make or not but it's definitely old. And it's also missing that all important saw nut.
The stamp reads Hunter & Son and what looks like 'talbot works' underneath.

Info anybody?
 

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There are certainly easier saws to restore. By the time you've straightened that tooth line you will have lost a bit more saw depth. Crack in the lambs tongue and the missing saw Nut, I'd give it a miss. As a practice piece it might serve it's purpose and of course it will still cut perfectly well if done to a decent standard. At one time it was a quality saw.
 
I agree with Mignal, especially with it being steel backed not brass.

I'd bung it on fleabay, its a rare make (can't find any Hunter saws listed now or in the last 3 months) and someone might love to get their hands on it.
 
The pitting on the blade is quite bad so restoring it to increase value wouldn't be a good idea. For use? well again the pitting will affect the sharpness or its ability to stay sharp. It's a shame but sometimes some tools deteriorate beyond the state of return.
 
Restore!

According to 'Hand-Saw Makers of Britain' by Schaffer and McConnell, the firm of Michael Hunter and Son of Talbot Works, Wicker, Sheffield were active from about 1855 till 1879.

Apart from the missing saw-screw (small nut and bolt and a couple of washers would make a good reversible temporary fix until a proper solution can be found), that doesn't look too bad. Just a good clean - don't take the handle off. I've seen worse toothlines; a little bit of patience to joint things straight and reshape teeth, followed by a set and sharpen, should give a good many more years of useful life.
 
I've brought back worse.More to prove a point than in expectation of gaining a valuable item in the workshop.Have a crack at it.
 
MIGNAL":3f6jvgoc said:
By the time you've straightened that tooth line you will have lost a bit more saw depth.

I think the toothline isn't too bad - the shadows on the draping are deceptive.

BugBear
 
Mr_P":b6mpthv8 said:
AndyT tackles a complete basket case here:

post938235.html?

Is it worth the bother ? Only you can decide but please don't bin it.

That's just what I was going to say! (And I paid money for mine, though not much...) I've been using it for proper woodworking as well.
 
There are still plenty of good old steel back saws out there you could buy for £10-15 and maybe less if you look hard enough.
The only thing i would say though, owning a good vintage saw will serve you well and once you have a good one use the effort in maintaining it.
Sharpness and maintaining sharpness is important as the saw is supposed to cut under its own weight, leaving you to concentrate on the direction of the cut. I avoid saws with heavy pitting for this reason thus why i recommended to bin it, although i'd salvage the handle first. :wink:
 
It would be a shame for something that has provided 150 odd years of service to end up in the bin just because prices are low at the moment.

I'd be inclined cut the handle back to an open shape, the remaining wounds would be very small and the closed part is no longer adding much in terms of strength.

Replacement saw nuts can be had for a few quid, and with a good clean and sharpen it should be perfectly usable.
 
I'm inclined to agree with Matthew; something that's survived that long is worth the attempt I think.

What's the problem with shortening the blade? You could still cut some damn good dovetails. Failing that, turn what's left of the blade into a scraper or a knife, or save the parts for future use.
 
If you have the time and inclination I'd neither restore nor bin it but transform it instead.

As matthew suggests, cut off the bottom (lambs tongue piece) of the handle - perhaps at the first notch on the tongue - leaving a pistol grip. If you then cut-off the worst end of the blade and back, re-drilling fixing holes if needbe, thus transforming it into, say, a 10" dovetail saw. For the price of a brass screw and maybe a carbide drill, plus plenty of elbow grease that could be a beauty you'd be proud of and a great learning experience (assuming you have an interest in saw restoration). Bearing in mind the modest financial outlay if it all goes pear shaped you can still bin it and recycle the brass parts.
 
I'd replace the blade. The pitting and rust pattern and the handle give me the impression, that the blade has been eaten up inside the handle.

I'd try to fix the break wit hide glue.

I's replace the missing saw and nut.

To have dovetail saw from this, I think it would be the best ti replace the blade, too, because it is typical to thick for having fun sawing dovetails. 0,6-0,8mm.

Cheers
Pedder
 
Well, thanks for the replies.
I am erring on the side of trying out my restoration skills.
As has been mentioned, inside the handle looks quite rusty which is why I would like to remove the handle and clean it up in there.
The tooth line is very straight..it is just the sheet causing the distortion.
Now that its getting a bit warmer i'll get outside and start with the wet and dry. I'll let you all know how I get on..

David
 
Then it will be a saw at least. :lol:
In my world a car isn't a new car, if you change the wheels.

Cheers
Pedder
 
pedder":2tgcq8n7 said:
Then it will be a saw at least. :lol:
In my world a car isn't a new car, if you change the wheels.

Cheers
Pedder

Tyres are a service item and meant to be renewed periodically. Changing the rims is a different matter as far as originality is concerned though not so bad if you keep the originals for use at a later date.

I don't think a saw blade constitutes a service item, clean it up and if it doesn't feel safe at 60 mph then stick to 30 and enjoy the ride.

There are plenty worse saws out there to make a Trigger's broom. :)
 
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