Resin/pitch blade cleaner?

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Lightning bolt

Stopped, splayed & wedged scarf joint
Joined
20 Jul 2020
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Location
Cork, Ireland
I've got a barn full of 'old growth' (naturally grown) Scott's pine boards air dried for a no. Of yrs which have come of age. I'm going to make a floor for the house i'm building (traditional timber frame with beams from same trees) over the coming winter. V.excited about it! Thing is the pine is oooozing resin/liquid amber which is going to get all over my blades/machines...can anyone recommend a v.good non toxic resin blade cleaner & where to purchase? Muchos gracias
 
I can recommendd the CMT cleaner - I have found it to be very effective and it doesn't evaporate away quickly like solvents such as meths.

Jim
 
How are you going to deal with all the pitch oozing out of the wood when it is laid? I know kiln drying will set the resin but wonder about air drying.

Pete
 
Oven cleaner spray. No idea about toxicity other than the warning about inhaling the fumes on some makes.
Currently Mr Muscle brand but what ever is available in the £1 shop.
 
I just cleaned my saw blades having sawn (that looks wrong!) a lot of pine. I put them, one at a time, in the top of a lid from a 10 litre paint pot and sprayed them with kitchen degreaser. Left for a few minutes the resin came off easily scrubbing with a nylon brush.
 
Mr Muscle window and glass cleaner and a brass brush.

Pete
 
I vaguely recall reading that oven cleaner can damage the brazing on TC tipped tools - principally saw blades.
I use Ballistol Harzlöser on bandsaw blades and it does the job well enough.
Duncan
 
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Cellulose thinners will present real hazards inside the workshop. I have used it in the fresh air in the past but much prefer soaking the blades in a little white spirit overnight. I must give the oven cleaner a go!
 
How are you going to deal with all the pitch oozing out of the wood when it is laid? I know kiln drying will set the resin but wonder about air drying.

Pete

I guess i'll use it as reminder that I have the privalage to be walking around on one of nature's greatest creations everyday, a tree! Could be difficult to convince missus of this though...I think once it's machined it should be ok, all resin pockets will either be exposed or encased, I hope.
 
Thanks for all the great replies people!
I was wondering why no one has been replying to my posts since I joined & only just found where my posts are stored this am. doh! Forgive me, i'm a traditional timber framer dealing with medieval style carpentry, these web forums are a new thing to me...
 
I have some stuff from trend, its Ok but needs to be left to dwell for a good while before it loosens the pitch. I wouldn`t buy it again.
"Non toxic" is your problem here, it often means much less effective than the toxic stuff that works brilliantly.
What about petrol thats normally a pretty good solvent.
 
After some googling, I'm giving washing machine detergent a go.

Results later today!

20201229_151633.jpg20201229_151643.jpg20201229_151633.jpg20201229_151643.jpg20201229_151650.jpg20201229_151704.jpg20201229_151811.jpg20201229_151927.jpg
 
Well, the teeth came out very clean, as did the blade body.
Those orange looking bits have not come off, they have stayed the same, even with some brushing with a plastic brush.

Strangely, this is only on the teeth on one half of the blade both sides.

Does anybody know what they are? Could be rust, hopefully whatever it is, it's superficial and not going to compromise the attachment of the teeth to the blade.20201229_161342.jpg20201229_161349.jpg20201229_161421.jpg20201229_161436.jpg20201229_161342.jpg20201229_161349.jpg20201229_161421.jpg20201229_161436.jpg
 

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