Replacement on/off switch for Scheppach TS30

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Raymond UK

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My table saw didn't start this afternoon and after that it was intermittent so my first thought was the NVR switch but can I buggery find one online. I know it's not a very liked saw on here but as space is limited I had to buy this a few years back.

Scheppach spares site sends you round in circles and I really could do with a replacement swishy in case it packs in completely.

Any idea where to get one from?
 
FFX, where I bought this from quoted me £111 + VAT for a replacement switch today....

Looking on eBay for no volt release switches I found this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NVR-Stop-Sta ... 1438.l2649

Will that do? I really don't want to be spending too much on this saw as I'd like to upgrade later next year to something with a cast iron top with mitre slots.

Any advice will be appreciated. (On a new saw and the switch above)
 
have you ensured that there is no dust or other in the existing one?
 
A few years ago I owned a TS30. Although the importer NMA of Yorkshire has held a variety of spares. I adapted a Axi switch to overcome my problem. You also need to look at your supply as the machine does need a dedicated 16 amp not via a 13 amp socket, as this can then look like a switch fault.
Good luck
Richard
 
Thanks for the replies.

I have just removed the switch assembly and the saw is definitely 13A. There's a Euro plug to UK plug extension that goes into the bottom of the switch presumably because Scheppach is German?

Will the switch on eBay (link in my earlier post) do? It's says 19A but I'm not clued up on electrical things. The bonus of this switch is that it is enclosed so it should be straight forward mounting it back onto the saw.

This is the switch that's on it at the moment.





Euro to UK plug that slides into the bottom of the switch






 
Read the small print very carefully.
the link to the link to the amazon switch is only 4amp. DO NOT BUY.

The link to ebay that says 19 amp in the top line says 16 amp in the specs underneath.

You can either buy the switch itself and fit it to that box, or buy the whole box with switch included, but it must be at least 13 amp, 16 is better.
 
The amazon link was in the link to another post, dont fret, dont buy it.

Doesnt matter who you buy it from, it will be made in china.
The criteria is 13 amps or more. You can measure yours and try to match exact physical size, which will make it easier to pop one out and one in, but if you buy that self contained box, its no big deal.
 
Cheers Bob,

The current switch is all one part. I've taken the yellow dust boot off and to have a look but it's all one.

I'll go with the 16A one on eBay that's enclosed and stocked in the UK. I can't afford to wait 3 weeks for a switch to arrive from China in case this one packs up completely.

FFX told me I purchased this saw in 2014 so I don't think I can start looking for a new one just yet. :|

Couple more years and I'll pass the idea past misses Ray.... :shock:
 
Well, the switch has given up on me today along with sparks flying out of the bottom.

Pooleworld can get one for £81.00 +VAT which seems steep still and really not wanting to spend that much on a switch.

Charnwood has them priced at 25.00 but none in stock and they don't know when they're coming back in either.

https://www.charnwood.net/products/prod ... athway-232

I can't fit a normal NVR switch as there's 4 wires going to the motor.

Another one here but 20-39 days for delivery.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HCK3-25 ... 16632.html

Really stuck now.
 
What happened? you went from buying the cheap one to buying the stupid price one.
The NVR switch uses 4 wires. If you have more wires inside the box its to do with a capacitor or brake. Take the cover off the box and check the wires carefully. Take a picture and post it here.
 
Hi Bob,

It has more wires than a normal NVR and looks a little more complicated. As you said it does have a capacitor. I think that's for the slow start as it doesn't have an electric brake.

A friend of mine has replaced the coil inside the switch and it's all working again now.

I'm thinking of selling this saw after Christmas and upgrade to a smaller saw with a cast iron top. Looking at a Charnwood W619 or W629 but I'll create a separate thread for that.

Really want something more precise and wider cut.

Picture of the 100 quid switch... :roll:


 
The bit that does the work could be functionally replaced with a KEDU KJD17b NVR switch - they're supposed to be good up to about 18 amps and cost about £15 from axminster and dozens of other sellers. The 17b switch isn't exactly the same size as the one on your Scheppach (my Kity bandsaw had the same as yours) but the function is the same. £7 will buy you a plastic box to stick it in and a couple of cable glands to seal the dust out so if you pay more than £22 for a replacement, you're paying over the odds. KEDU switches are used as original equipment by many manufacturers. There are several models. Just select one that is rated for your size of motor.

Oh, and as Sunnybob recently highlighted in another post, check the diagram on the side of the switch and connect it in properly because in and out matters on these switches.
 
Thanks for that info. If it decides to go again over the next few months I'll get one of those.

At the moment it is fixed and working so hopefully it'll tie me over Christmas so I can upgrade.
 
sunnybob":2ym9ods0 said:
What happened? you went from buying the cheap one to buying the stupid price one.
The NVR switch uses 4 wires. If you have more wires inside the box its to do with a capacitor or brake. Take the cover off the box and check the wires carefully. Take a picture and post it here.

Hi Bob,
Thinking back to my Kity bandsaw that has the same kind of switch socket unit, I wanted to move the switch from the spine of the machine to somewhere else more accessible (i installed the saw inline with a workbench and the original ended up at the back and hard to reach). Rather than butcher the original, I just removed and stored it, then replaced the whole thing with a KEDU switch in a separate box. It works fine, but I remember now that mine also had extra wires into the switch. Wierdly, Kity dragged some connections all the way back to the switch to link them together. They may have been the permanent capacitor connections. They aren't switched at all. The switch just has extra blades that allow certain wires to be joined. I replaced this with local connections in a small box next to the motor as the motor terminal box was actually rather small and tight - and that may be the sole reason for a rather unnecessary wiring arrangement and an expensive switch ...
If you're not familiar with motor wiring, this could all be rather confusing.
 
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