Repairs to putty in timber windows

[Alder]

Can any one please offer some advice and guidance and redoing the putty in old timber windows.
Which putty to use?
If you buy "lumps" does it need kneeding, or have anything mixed with to make it more workable?
Sorry if they are stupid questions.
Thank you in anticipation,
Russell

 

[deema]

Linseed oil putty, it shouldn’t be lumpy, normally it’s too oily. The old trick I was taught was to make it into fat sausages and wrap it in newspaper initially to remove the excess oil. Knead it and apply with your thumb. Plenty of utube how to videos.

 

[HOJ]

May be worth looking at this as an alternative, I have used it on quite a few window projects, you can over paint, usually, after a couple of hours as well.

http://www.repair-care.com/pdf/Dryseal UN_EN.pdf

 

[Jacob]

Softens up in a microwave. If it still stays lumpy then bin it.
Before applying new stuff it's a good idea to prime old putty and the rebates with raw linseed oil brushed on thin. Or knotting if down to bare wood.

 

[ED65]

If the putty has gone dry a little raw linseed can be added and kneaded in, but you should never see this with new stuff. If anything you should find a layer of oil floating on the surface of the putty. If this is what you see when you take the lid off this oil should not be discarded, it should be mixed back in and the putty kneaded to a uniform consistency on a clean, dry, non-absorbent surface. You can use your bare hands if you don't mind the smell of linseed oil.

Hard lumps may soften in the microwave as per Jacob's advice, old advice was to stand the container in a pan of simmering water or something like that, but lots faster in a microwave I bet! Just be careful not to overheat, oily things heat very quickly in a microwave so I'd suggest doing it no more than 10 seconds at a time.

 

[Alder]

Thank you for your replies. I have used very small amounts before which came in tubs.
The last time I saw a large quantity it was handed over in a "lump" wrapped in newspaper. You can imagine that that occurred a very long time ago.
Do I presume that putty today is sold only in tubs of varying sizes?
The part about kneading it I understand. I will seek out a you tube video as suggested.
Once again Thank you,
Russell

 

[Jacob]

Fresh new putty has no surplus oil, won't need kneading and is a pleasure to use. Check the date on the tub. Best bought from a busy trade counter rather than a small DIY shop where it might have been on the shelf too long.
Another useful tip is to wet it after you've finished. Lightly spray with water - it goes off faster and and the putty smears on the glass are easier to clean off.
Another tip - don't use glazing sprigs except as a temporary fixing to be removed as soon as the putty has gone off a bit, then tidy up the marks. Only necessary on larger panes, small panes will stay in place with putty alone. If you leave sprigs in place that's where the putty and/or the glass will fail first.

 

[Alder]

This is more of a Supplementary question than a reply.
The windows in question are timber. Should the bare timber (old) be painted before the putty is applied?
Thank you in anticipation,
Russell

 

[Jacob]

Yes. Best done with knotting solution. Lasts forever and the putty takes really well.

 

[Bod]

Putty, the bane of my life!
Whenever I try to use it, I just get a sticky mess all over what ever it touches.
Others have kneaded, and rolled a lump, put it in my hands, and laughed as it turned to a sticky mess.
I just cannot handle the stuff! Dry or wet hands, no difference. Father was just the same.

Bod

 

[Bm101]

While we're on the subject, I have a more general question on putty and fitting glazing. Wondered what you thought.
Recent work on the house involved merging a box room and the old bathroom. Stud walls etc. No issues there, just rearrangement of internal space (at least for the purpose of this thread). However it did leave me with two windows that used to be in separate rooms now being in the same one. All the windows on my house are wooden and known to me as a windowcleaner in trade lingo as 'stamps'.
See, you're learning stuff already.
Stamps just means the panes are small not the type of window frame.
Soooo.
I ended up with a nasty patterned duff (more window cleaners lingo! Bathroom glass) window and a clear glass one. Rather than reglaze both with frosted, (couldn't reach one from the scaff), the sensible option I thought I'd try to keep costs down by stripping out the old bathroom glass, replacing with clear then adding a sticker type solution to both.
Anyway, are we all still awake?!?
Being a damp environment I noticed the internal putty seals were Kaput.
Hmmmm. Gave me an idea. Bit like Michael Caine at the end of the Italian Job. "Lads. Lads!"
Stripped back the old putty, removed old frosted glass, renewed frames. Painted.
Then (bear in mind I had lots of tubes knocking about so I didn't buy it) I put a thin bead of clear bathroom sealant (anti mould gear) pushed the new panes in. The I put a tiny bead of CT1 on the external faces of panes and frames. All hidden. Then I repaired as normal with putty.

What I aimed for was a tiny bit of squeezeout on the internal beads and panes. Easy enough. Bit of time to cure then a sharp knife/scraper at a slight angle and I think I should have removed the opportunity for moisture to pool along the inside ledges of windows. Once painted internally I'm hopeful this will be a bit of a boon longterm for keeping the paintwork maintenance free a bit longer.

Any opinions? Criticism welcome etc. Just a tryout but it seems to make sense.
Regards
Chris

 

[Jacob]

Time will tell!
Alternative solutions;
1. improve ventilation. We've got "Passivent" extractors in our bathrooms and they work brilliantly.
2 Omit putty entirely from bottom of glass panes and have them sitting on plastic (or anything) spacers , so that there is a gap through which condensation will drain.
3 If it's an opening light make sure that water can drain away on to the cill i.e. no draught seals at the bottom.

 

[Bm101]

Yeh. Cheers Jacob. There was no extractor in the old bathroom. I fitted an expelair in the ensuite. Must say I'm impressed. Quiet and efficient doesn't cover it. Pricey but worth it. Quiet and works like a dream.
I reckon I'll do the same for the main bathroom. Might eliminate the issue altogether.
I'll patent it and put it on Dragons Den either way.