Repairing a bulge on a stag minstrel chest of drawers

[Helen M]

Hi, I have a stag minstrel chest of drawers that has a bulge on the top. It's about 1 by 2 inches. At first I thought it was a bubble in the veneer but it felt solid as if the wood had swollen. I cut a slit along it but there does not appear to be any veneer to lift so perhaps it's solid wood, I'm not sure. I understand the wood to be Makore (African Cherry). It's perhaps an area of swollen wood possibly due to water damage.

Any tips on how to repair? I'm actually painting the item (no views on this please) so all I am looking for is a way of smoothing out the bulge. I've not tried sanding yet because of not being 100% sure whether I am dealing with veneer or a solid wood top? I suppose the first step is to know if I am dealing with solid wood or veneer - does anyone know? Then the best course of action. Thanks.

 

[MikeG.]

.....I'm actually painting the item (no views on this please) so all I am looking for is a way of smoothing out the bulge.........

In the nicest possible way, Helen, you don't get to say what people can and can't comment on in your posts.

If you are painting it, why not just plane or sand away the lump?

 

[dzj]

If the veneer has lifted, the bubble will make a different sound when tapped than surrounding flat surfaces.

 

[Helen M]

Hi Mike, I just didn't want to open up a debate about the virtues of painting furniture on a woodworking site, that is all.

If I was 100% sure it is solid wood I would try to sand down the bulge but I'm not sure. I have investigated how to repair a bubble in veneer but as I started down that route I began to doubt if it is veneer. I wondered if anyone knows for sure with Stag Minstrel being such a common make.

Regards
Helen

 

[Helen M]

Hi dzj, I did try that and there was no noticeable difference in sound. This is when I started to think it was not a bubble but a bulge in the underlying wood.

 

[doctor Bob]

mass produced so I'd imagine it's veneer, solid wood wouldn't create a bulge.
Cut the bubble with a knife, squirt in a bit of glue and flatten with clamps or very heavy item.

 

[dzj]

mass produced so I'd imagine it's veneer, solid wood wouldn't create a bulge.
Cut the bubble with a knife, squirt in a bit of glue and flatten with clamps or very heavy item.

Try a dry run without glue first, just to see if a clamp and caul will flatten the lump.

 

[Steve Maskery]

My guess would be veneer, too; solid wood doesn't usually behave in that way.
You've given the area of the bulge, can you give us an idea of the height of it? Are we talking about half a mil or several?
Is there any other evidence of physical trauma to the piece?

 

[sunnybob]

Youre painting it. Who cares how you make it flat? power sander, power planer, hammer and chisel, doesnt matter. get it flat, use polyfilla to smooth it out, and paint.
You realise you will have to de-wax and scuff the rest of the wood anyway to make the paint stick, so the original value (if any) is gone for good.
Just do it. =D> =D> =D>

 

[Steve Maskery]

power planer,

Really? :shock:

I wouldn't do that.

I imagine that Helen wants to do the least amount of damage to the piece as possible, so that she can make it look how she wants with the minimum amount of unnecessary work.

I would stick a scalpel into it, expecting to find a void under the bulge. I'd then prepare a caul (unless it was close to the edge and I had a clamp that could reach), squirt some glue in with a syringe, clamp it up and then sand and use any filler that was necessary.

Power planers are for barn doors, not furniture of any kind.

 

[MikeG.]

Youre painting it. Who cares how you make it flat?......

Exactly. That was the point I hoped I had made.

 

[sunnybob]

Steve, post 1 said there was a slit cut and it made no difference. later it was said that the bulge did not sound hollow.
Whatever its made of, wood, ply, hardboard or chipboard, its knackered.
Painting it will NOT retain any value to the piece, why fart around with it?.
Smooth it, filler it. paint it, move on.

Save careful restoration for something that deserves it.

 

[Bm101]

No opinion on whether you should or should not paint furniture. Personal choice.
But Bob has a point even if he does go about it a little in the manner of 'Release the Hounds' he's right. If it is going to be painted then what does it matter if you achieve a flat painted uniform surface at the end. Rout it out replace with mdf and epoxy and sand it down if necessary to get rid of any underlying effects that might be there like damp or poor structure. It's not esoteric results you're after it's a stable flat painted surface. Do what needs to be done.
Move on.

 

[sunnybob]

Chris, you seem to be implying I need to restock my tact reservoir?

MOI?
Really?
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:
How about a disclaimer;
No offense was intended in my blunt and to the point but equally pithy messages.
'owzat? 8) 8)

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's not often I meet someone who can out de-tact me, but in this case I bow to a Master

 

[Inspector]

I had to search what Stag Minstrel was. So it seems to be a brand of furniture from the 80's or so and made to look like older furniture. Some adds saying Mahogany but I can't get from that if it was made of solid, veneer, lookalikes, or other wood sprayed with a Mahogany finish. If it was of reasonable quality the top would have had a layer of veneer laid across the show veneer and the bubble may be between it and the substrate. Helen you may have to slit deeper if the show veneer is still bonded to the cross band veneer but it let go from the substrate.

Helen when you tapped the surface did you use your finger or something else? On bonded skins of aircraft (fibreglass) the usual tool was a quarter. Try tapping with the edge of a larger coin and see if that shows a void.

Since you are going to paint you can go with tactless and blunt advice :lol: given so far and chop (hammer) out the bulged area. Then fill and sand the hole flat. Are you painting it a solid colour or going with a distressed look?

Don't stress too much over it and have fun. The worst thing that can happen is you have to remove all the veneer and replace it with thin flat sheet goods. Or have a bonfire. :wink:
Pete

 

[Student]

Some years ago, I was given a couple of Stag Minstrel bedside cabinets which I renovated. I removed all the walnut coloured stain/varnish and restained them in a light brown colour. I don’t have access to my picture library at the moment so can’t post any pictures. However, they seemed to be made out of solid wood, top/drawer fronts/sides. The drawers were dovetailed albeit machine made.

Unlike much of today’s furniture they were well made but are now old fashioned in both style and colour. Ebay seems to have plenty for sale for only £50.

Having said all this, I cannot understand why there is such a lump in the top.

 

[sunnybob]

Why Steve, you charmer.
I admit I can be blunt, but after alls said and done, theres no point whatsoever in applying restoration time on a piece of furniture that will be painted.

And to be fair to Helen (sorry Helen), I'm making no judgement on the decision to paint it. Her property, her choice.

 

[Woody2Shoes]

Hi -
one quick way to help decide whether or not it's veneer on top is to look at the underside (I presume the top drawer or two would need to come out and a bright light brought to bear) - this should give more clues on the construction.

Looking at examples on the web (I had to Google too!) most chests seem to have a wide plain moulding around the edge of the top panel (which may well be made from four pieces of solid wood) with a centre flat panel (which could well be veneered) - I'd be looking for tell-tale joints from the underside.

TBH - looking at the visual quality of some of the examples on the web - painting might well be the kindest thing you could do to it!
Cheers, W2S

PS as others have said - the bubbling does strongly suggest veneer and +1 for the clue/clamp method of fixing if so

 

[Peterm1000]

Youre painting it. Who cares how you make it flat? power sander, power planer, hammer and chisel, doesnt matter. get it flat, use polyfilla to smooth it out, and paint.
You realise you will have to de-wax and scuff the rest of the wood anyway to make the paint stick, so the original value (if any) is gone for good.
Just do it. =D> =D> =D>

I'm not sure that's totally true... with chalk paint you can paint straight onto the old finish. According to my wife (when I suggested it was for bodgers and amateurs) that is the desired look... Like it was painted by a child.