REPAIRED ======= It was all going so well then OPPS!

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Blister

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Decided to have a go at a tall fluted style vase

Brazilian Mahogany

Run 2 forstner bits down the middle then moved onto manual hollowing with my big home made hollower

IMG_1637-1.jpg


obviously not finished just turned to the rough shape I wanted

Started hollowing , then this happened

IMG_1638-1.jpg


so that was that :lol: OPPS!

IMG_1639.jpg


its FUBAR'd now :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :lol:

dont you just love turning :lol: :lol:
 
C'mon Allen,

This is a design opportunity :D

Just use the splits as a basis for a decorated vase and you have ART.

Go for it

PS: DON'T FORGET TO REMOVE ANY EVIDENCE THAT THIS HAS EVER BEEN NEAR A LATHE :twisted:
 
Hmmm,

Smarter than me, I always do the outside first as I want to finalise the outside shape before anything else. Mind you, I work on a suck it and see basis and very rarely have any idea what the finished result is going to look like. That takes planning and stuff.

It does mean having a VERY light touch on the inside of goblets and the like, so I tend to use a sharp scraper rather than a gouge once I reach 2 or 3mm.

Mind you, my light touch didn't help ten minutes ago when I went through the bottom of a vase when parting it off:shock: I knew I'd gone deep but.....another insert beckons.
 
My method.

Blank on a screw chuck, turn to cylinder abd turn chuck recess in the base, sand and oil/wax or what ever finish.

Reverse and mount on my /o'Donnel jaws. Bore the inside out with the largest flat plate drill bit to the required depth and turn the inside shape starting with a 3/8" spindle gouge followed by a 1/2" spindle gouge if it's a deep un. Sand and finish and then turn the outside to shape, sanded and whatever finish. No parting off needed..
 
I'm with Gordon on this, I don't think I'd really be able to judge the inside shape well enough to do that first. It takes me ages just to achieve a smooth curve without discernable transitions, so I'd be hopeless trying to get a nice curve where I can't see it.
 
Ah, but no matter what shape the outside is you still can't see the inside, can you? Plus, if the inside doesn't want to be the shape you want it to be then you can follow it on the outside and it then becomes an intended shape :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

I work on the principle that the wood tells me what it wants to be. If I have a commision for a particular shape it's always more difficult to make the wood do what I want. Sounds stupid, but that's the way it works for me 8) 8)
 
Ah, but no matter what shape the outside is you still can't see the inside, can you?

I try to follow the outer shape by attempting to maintain a constant thickness. I don't obsess about ultra thin walls though, tapering to a thin rim gives that illusion :oops:
 
I'm going to have to copy one of those! I love it when something I've made actually gets used rather than just dusted/looked at.
 
For personal taste I'd probably skip the folded lip, going for more of a '60s hanging chair look, but I like that cut-away look and the lop-sided opening.
 
That hanging chair look is soooooooooooooooo 60s and past daze fashion #-o #-o

The folded lip look is soooooo chick and a la mode 8) 8)

Lop sided? pas de tout. Not when viewed full on! Totally semi-trickle 8) 8) 8)

Plus, you can note just how precise the wall thickness is, top to bottom 8) 8)

Gaw-on! Face the challenge, you know you can... =D> =D>
 
=D> =D> :lol:

Gaw-on! Face the challenge, you know you can...

Well I can.....
DSCF0146k.jpg

this is an aborted challenge attempt, mahogany, turned from the flat, I just can't do it very well.

When I plagiarise your bowl I think I'll try to make it as a small hollow form then bandsaw the waste off.
 

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monkeybiter":1yye33yo said:
I'm going to have to copy one of those! I love it when something I've made actually gets used rather than just dusted/looked at.

I think I might just have to copy this one as well (if you are ok with that). I can think of at least 10 pieces wallowing in the shed that could do with some of the same treatment.
 
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