Renovating an oak table top

[valvebounce]

Hello,I am a retired Bricklayer,and now,with plenty of time on my hands I have the opportunity to do a few of the jobs that I never had time for.
I have perused this site,and it looks just the ticket,so here goes.
I have a round oak table and chairs that I purchased new about 25yrs ago.The table legs and chairs are definately oak,but I am not sure if the table top is veneered.It is not English oak,I suspect it is European.
It has no cup rings,marks etc.but the finish on the table is starting to deteriorate in places.I imagine it was sprayed initially.
The patches showing through seem to have a decent grain on them.
I have been advised to remove the finish with paint remover,then to sand and wipe over with bleach and rinse clean.
Has anyone got any suggestions on how to re-coat with stain and a suitable finish?
Would spirit based stain do the job initially?

 

[custard]

Welcome!

Firstly European Oak is pretty much the same as English Oak, in fact many people argue it's better as France for example still grows Oak as a commercial crop on a 200 year cycle, so it's planted tightly spaced so that it grows straight and true to the sky. English Oak on the other hand is wherever you can find it, often "park" grown so it tends to branch much lower.

The other likely option is American Oak, American White Oak is virtually identical to European Oak, but there's also American Red Oak which has a nasty red tinge and a coarser grain.

Anyhow, the key question is if the top is veneered.

Do the boards run right to the edge so you can see the end grain? If so it's solid and you can get stuck in with 80 grit if you want! On the other hand if there is a lipping or edging all around the edges then it's almost certainly veneered. Commercial veneer is only about 0.6mm thick, and it will have had a sanding when it was made so the veneers will be even thinner now. The bottom line is that sanding a veneered top is a very dodgy undertaking. If you do go that route then try and remove as much of the lacquer finish with thinners (it probably is lacquer, 25 years is about par for the course) and then carefully sand using a hard backing block and a very fine grit.

Osmo Hard wax might be a good replacement finish.

Good luck!

 

[Matt@]

time and again I see advice to sand on these forums. Sanding should be a last resort due to possibility of leaving sanding marks, also bear in mind that wood fades beneath the finish thus when the finish is stripped, the wood still has often, a faded colour which if you sand will sand through to the base colour of the wood - mahogany is a great example of this, even better - Rosewood which will go from light cream colour to dark red/ black when sanded. This is fine if the surface is solid wood and you are happy to take 1mm off with the sanding also fine if you are happy to have the original deep colour of the original wood but be aware that the top surface of the furniture will no longer match the rest of it that is unsanded. Be aware also that sanded surfaces will suck the stain in much better thus create a much darker richer colour than the rest of the furniture. If the surface is veneer, then 1mm sanding will remove the veneer most likely. Sanding introduces a can of worms yet it is the most offered advice as to how to restore a finish. Moral of this post is - stay away from sanding anything unless absolutely necessary! Within furniture restoration circles, sanding is often the kiss of death to a piece......

 

[valvebounce]

Welcome!

Firstly European Oak is pretty much the same as English Oak, in fact many people argue it's better as France for example still grows Oak as a commercial crop on a 200 year cycle, so it's planted tightly spaced so that it grows straight and true to the sky. English Oak on the other hand is wherever you can find it, often "park" grown so it tends to branch much lower.

The other likely option is American Oak, American White Oak is virtually identical to European Oak, but there's also American Red Oak which has a nasty red tinge and a coarser grain.

Anyhow, the key question is if the top is veneered.

Do the boards run right to the edge so you can see the end grain? If so it's solid and you can get stuck in with 80 grit if you want! On the other hand if there is a lipping or edging all around the edges then it's almost certainly veneered. Commercial veneer is only about 0.6mm thick, and it will have had a sanding when it was made so the veneers will be even thinner now. The bottom line is that sanding a veneered top is a very dodgy undertaking. If you do go that route then try and remove as much of the lacquer finish with thinners (it probably is lacquer, 25 years is about par for the course) and then carefully sand using a hard backing block and a very fine grit.

Osmo Hard wax might be a good replacement finish.

Good luck!

Thanks for your reply,and advice.
I had the bright idea of looking at the underside of the table top,it has a fairly straight grain,it has been lacquered 4" in very neatly,the same finish as the top.There is no end grain showing,but I suspect it was a "production line" sprayed finish.
The coating puts me in mind of the coloured "Sikkens laquer" they used to use on external facia boards on houses.
I think I will try the thinners method you suggested,and for any stubborn bits,very fine wire wool.
The colour is slightly lighter than dark oak.
I was thinking of using a polyurathene coloured laquer,and putting it on with a cotton wool and mutton cloth dummy French polish style.I did a set of oak coffee tables for my daughter a few years ago using the same method,they are still in good condition.
Once again,thanks for your advice

 

[valvebounce]

time and again I see advice to sand on these forums. Sanding should be a last resort due to possibility of leaving sanding marks, also bear in mind that wood fades beneath the finish thus when the finish is stripped, the wood still has often, a faded colour which if you sand will sand through to the base colour of the wood - mahogany is a great example of this, even better - Rosewood which will go from light cream colour to dark red/ black when sanded. This is fine if the surface is solid wood and you are happy to take 1mm off with the sanding also fine if you are happy to have the original deep colour of the original wood but be aware that the top surface of the furniture will no longer match the rest of it that is unsanded. Be aware also that sanded surfaces will suck the stain in much better thus create a much darker richer colour than the rest of the furniture. If the surface is veneer, then 1mm sanding will remove the veneer most likely. Sanding introduces a can of worms yet it is the most offered advice as to how to restore a finish. Moral of this post is - stay away from sanding anything unless absolutely necessary! Within furniture restoration circles, sanding is often the kiss of death to a piece......

Thanks for your reply and advice,
I have replied to "Custard"if you would like to have a look.
Do you think using fine wire wool would empty the grain inbetween the hard and soft parts ?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Using wire wool on oak is a no no. Any minute trapped particles will cause a blue black stain.

 

[valvebounce]

Thanks Phil,
You have probably saved me from a catastrophe.