Removing drill bit

[byyt]

I bought a Kerrys pillar drill with a cardinal self locking chuck. The problem is that even when I hold the drive belt, I cannot get the chuck to release the bit that is in situ. Any ideas?

 

[blackrodd]

Sorry, afraid I can't help you, I'm not familiar with the chuck in question, but someone will know and hopefully be along soon!
Regards Rodders.

 

[Hemsby]

Might be an :idea: first to gently tap around the side of the chuck several times with a copper mallet the shock may just release the mechanism. A wooden mallet or a hammer with a piece of wood in between will NOT have the desired effect. If you do not have a copper mallet a normal hammer with a piece of aluminium or similar to protect the chuck will do.

If that fails you may need to disassemble the chuck. If there is no obvious “split” visible in the body look down from where the chuck fits the M/T shank, are there any holes in the top plate of the chuck :?: If so you may have to remove the chuck from the drill and use a peg spanner disassemble the chuck. It may just need a good clean out.

Unlikely, but possible that the chuck has been assembled with a screw fitted from inside where the M/T is inserted. Not the easiest thing to separate the chuck from the M/T, also possible that there could be a screw fitted inside through the chuck jaws, if so you are in a bit of trouble if the drill is still in place #-o

Forgot #-o Place a piece of wood on the table and lift the table up fairly close to the chuck as the taping the chuck may separate it from the M/T. (Easy to put back)

Good luck

 

[byyt]

Thanks Hemsby. I tried the first suggestion, tapping with an aluminium wrapped hammer and the chuck and MT dislodged from the drill!. That was more action than I had managed in 2 hours! Now to dislodge the MT from the chuck. Hammer time?

 

[Hemsby]

Hi,

(hammer) Depends.

I assume there are no signs of any holes in the top of the chuck?

If there is a “tang” at the end of the M/T grip that in a vice and using a strap wrench try to undo the chuck to release the drill.

Would it be possible for you to post a couple of close up pictures so we can see the chuck also where the chuck meets the M/T

This may help with further suggestions.

Regards,

Keith

 

[byyt]

Hi Keith. Here are a couple of pics. The bit snapped and I cut into the stump to give a flat edge so the vice could grip it. Unfortunately my vice is portable and cannot get sufficient grip.

 

[Hemsby]

Hi,

I have not seen this type of old shank is it parallel :?: if so it looks like it is held in the drill spindle by a clamp on the shank body with the small end of the shank used as the drive. Have you looked to see how the shank is held in the drill spindle :?:

As I thought the holes secure the plate to the chuck holding in the jaws etc. You can see a tool of some sort has been used to remove & replace the plate previously.

Whatever you are going to do you need a vice fitted securely to a bench, once that is done you could either

Hold the end of the shank in the vice and use a belt wrench on the chuck body, making sure you do not twist this section as it may be used to secure the assembly in to the drill.

Hold the chuck body vertical in the vice using soft jaws and to stop it twisting in the vice you could insert a piece of bar in the chuck key hole then use either a peg spanner or hammer & punch to unscrew the top plate a little, hopefully this will release the jaws grip on the drill shank. If this works and you are feeling confident you could completely remove the plate and clean the assembly :-k .

Regards,

Keith

 

[byyt]

Hi Keith. Yes you are right. It is held in place with a screw type clamp.

I can think of a few ways to secure the vice. Its the only workshop one I have. I thought about using a woodworking one and gave up on that. I can hold the piece steady using the botched reshaped drill bit.

I'll have a go at getting the top of the chuck off. Useful to know they are on a screw thread. My other concern is if this has happened once, whats stopping it happening again? Nice way to spend new years day!

 

[blackrodd]

If, after doing what Hemsby has suggested does not work.
I suggest you get a spanner, the type that you use to change the disc on an angle grinder, and see if it will fit the top of the chuck, on any or one hole, or lock the "drive".
Put the chuck back in place in the drill, and if you have a tommy bar, get one that fits the hole in the chuck snugly as possible, and pull both spanners in the "undoing" direction against each other, (mind yer knuckles just in case). I may be perfectly wrong , but, so far this year.............
Regards Rodders

 

[Hemsby]

Unfortunately there s no guarantee that this will not happen again but if you manage to get the drill shank out, a good flush out and light oiling will help, the chuck of course

I think because of the age of your drill it may prove expensive if not impossible to replace the chuck/shank so will be worth while spending a bit of time on attempting a repair.

Unlike a normal keyed chuck self tightening chucks (especially modern ones) do not take kindly to damaged drill shanks.

Rodders suggestion of putting the chuck back in the drill will probably be the most stable way of holding while you try a peg spanner or use a hammer & punch if there is enough space between the top of the chuck and the spindle casting. You may need an extra pair of hand to help with holding a bar in the chuck & stopping the spindle turning while you attempt the unscrewing.

Regards,

Keith

 

[ColeyS1]

I've had similar happen and have managed to undo it by putting some sash clamps onto the chuck. Then it's just a case of squeezing the clamps until it free's up.... if it free's up :lol:

 

[byyt]

Thanks for the suggestions. I am concerned about hearing that getting a replacement chuck and stem would be difficult as I had assumed it was just a 2 MT and the chuck would fit fine.

I've spent the afternoon trying different things including a self made steel prying bar but have so far resisted the urge to put tr back on the machine as I am worried about breaking that as well?!

My next idea is to try and cut out enough of the drill bit using a combo of angle grinder, multitool and mini tool. Please feel free to tell me why that is a bad idea!

 

[ColeyS1]

Have you got a couple sash clamps you can try ?

 

[byyt]

Hi Coley. Yes I have a couple but I can't figure out how you did it?

 

[ColeyS1]

I'll flip over and take a pic

 

[ColeyS1]

I might be thinking of a different type chuck :lol:

 

[byyt]

Thanks. I can see the leverage you will get is far greater than what I have done so far. What did you use to stop the clamps slipping?

 

[ColeyS1]

The chucks knurled so they dont slip I'd be tempted to push it back in the drill and pinch the bed up so it doesn't fall all over the shop then have a go.

 

[Hemsby]

Just a thought :idea: . If you know anybody with a centre lathe it would be easy to hold the shank of your chuck in the lathe and using a slightly smaller drill (to avoid touching the lathe chuck jaws) the broken drill should collapse and release from your drill chuck. The shanks of even HSS drills are not hardened

 

[byyt]

The chucks knurled so they dont slip I'd be tempted to push it back in the drill and pinch the bed up so it doesn't fall all over the shop then have a go.

The pragmatist in me says, have a go. The devil on my shoulder says get the grinder out!