Refurbishing kitchen worktops

[Flynnwood]

I have about 11 sq m of worktop in my kitchen that needs updating.

Rather than the expense of totally replacing it, does anyone know of a laminate (or some other method) that I can fix to the existing worktop?

I would prefer to not tile it.

I am OK with moving the electric hob and sink upwards a little.

Thanks for any suggestions that anyone has real world experience with.

 

[Job and Knock]

In the USA they actually repaint worktops.......

You can relaminate laminate providing that it is thoroughly degreased, the surface is well scuffed with something like a P60 belt to provide a mechanical key for the glue and providing the edges of the original worktop are square. If they are post formed, i.e. radius-edged (and most laminate tops are), the effort to square them up will be more than it's worth. With 38mm laminated tops starting at £120 or so for a 4 metre length of a reasonable quality top it makes more sense to replace the tops in situ if you have the time and the skills (something I have done).

My own experience of relaminating has been with commercial/retail sales counters where the cost of replacement of a unit is potentially huge, so sometimes we re-laminate. But in the main they are not post-formed and if they have hardwood lippings it's easy enough to strip off the old ones and re-lip in situ after the new laminate is on. Where units have postformed edges (e.g. vanity units) it's an absolute nightmare trying to square cut them in situ and then re-laminate, even with a Festool saw. Hence my earlier comments

 

[fluffflinger]

I don't think you'll find a solution that is cheaper than replacing and I agree with Job and Knock if it's not already square edged I wouldn't even entertain trying to replace the laminate.

I would suggest Duropal or Prima as very good quality tops, avoid the sheds their tops are total rubbish. They won't break the bank and come in a large range of decors.

 

[bugbear]

I have about 11 sq m of worktop in my kitchen that needs updating.

What IS your existing worktop?

BugBer

 

[Flynnwood]

Thanks for all replies.

What IS your existing worktop?

They have a hardwood edging which (I guess) could be removed and replaced, but not sure of the damage that might cause to the worktop in doing so.

The reason for looking to re-furb was that replacing them will also mean an awful LOT of tiling would need to be re-done. (I'm sure the row of tiles above the worktop will become damaged in the process of removing the worktops and obviously I can't buy the same tile nowadays.)

 

[RobinBHM]

Laminate sheets are usually 3.0m x 1.2m and are likely to cost about £70 each, so prob more expensive than worktops

 

[Job and Knock]

They have a hardwood edging which (I guess) could be removed and replaced, but not sure of the damage that might cause to the worktop in doing so.

There is realistically no way to relaminate with the lippings in situ because the lippings are always applied after the lamination has done. The lippings will need to be sawn off using something like a Festool saw and rail - or even an ordinary saw running on a saw guide - and then the edges cleaned up as far as possible (sharp hand plane) because you'll need a decent edge to run the laminate trimmed against. The sink, hob, etc will obviously have to come out as well before you start on the lamination. The comments I made above re-degreasing and abrading still stand. You will need to relip afterwards. Were a customer to ask me to do this job without being willing to lose the lippings I'd walk away from the job because an unprotected laminate edge in a kitchen is just asking for trouble

The reason for looking to re-furb was that replacing them will also mean an awful LOT of tiling would need to be re-done. (I'm sure the row of tiles above the worktop will become damaged in the process of removing the worktops and obviously I can't buy the same tile nowadays.)

Not necessarily the case. The technique is to cut through the silicone sealing between the worktop and the tiling first and to undercut the joint using a Fein Multtool or similar to weaken the edges of the worktop. The worktop is then cut (across) into segments with a jigsaw and carefully removed in pieces. Works in 95% of cases providing the walls aren't double tiled (i.e. the tiler has tiled over existing tiles without removing them), or that the worktop wasn't sealed to the wall with siliconed first before it was over tiled. In those cases it's almost impossible not to crack or chip at least one tile, no matter how careful you are. The new worktop may need to be rebated along the back edges to get it in underneath the tiles and may require a rather large silicone bead to seal it afterwards (e.g. 5 to 6mm), however this approach only works with straight runs and L-shaped tops where there is no trapping of he worktop. A U-shaped top trapped between two end of run tall cabinets just can't be done without some damage somewhere and two long runs such as a two 3 metre pieces with a corner joint can also be impossible to achieve without some make good being required