Record Power BS300E unable to set tracking

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just can't decide
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Vamos, Crete, GREECE.......
glad ur fixed up.....but it's just not wood machines that are the prob.....
I worked as an engineer in industry and the biggest prob it those so called engineers in the design office.....
most of which havn't picked up a spanner let alone understand stress...
workshop staff were always told the computer designed it and it's strong enough.....
funny that, we had a 4million pound machine destroy itself because nobody at the top would listen to us.....
they did in the end and the refit cost more millions.....
they just relied on insurance if it all goes txt's up.....sound familiar.....?
 

chaoticbob

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Good that the OP has got this sorted. I agree that the accuracy of a poke with index finger shouldn't be underestimated - but you have to get it running right before you can calibrate your pokes of course. Took me ages of trying various 'ultimate bandsaw setup' techniques with various blades before I got my BS350 running true. Then more by luck than anything else I suspect - but the exercise trained my instincts.
A beneficial side effect of this thread, from my point of view, is that it reminded me that I had one of these sitting on a dusty shelf:

Extensionmeter800x600.JPG


I had no idea what it was when I bought it and neither did the seller, I think I may have paid a fiver. It is (of course) a Lindley Extensionmeter - you clamp a piece of metal between anvils behind the black wheels, put tension on the metal and measure the extension between the anvils. Ideal for measuring bandsaw blade tension obviously! With a knowledge of the Young's modulus of the blade material it would be possible to caculate the stress in the blade and hence the beam strength. This could then be correlated with the 'twang' frequency (easily measurable with a smartphone app) of the free length of blade between the wheels. Then I could write the ultimate ultimate definitive bandsaw blade tension guide.
I'm joking about that. But I might actually give it a try.
I'll get me coat.
Bob.
 

broadsman

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3 month update
This machine is now everything I want for my purposes. It has all the power I need and it's now so easy to use and accurate. One thing I don't think I mentioned, I have now replaced ALL those silly hex socket screws, of a variety of sizes, with knurled or star knob screws bought from Berger Home . Taken about 75% off the time to change a blade! The other thing I did was to cut a circular hole in the top door so I can see where the blade is tracking when running. Obviously stuck a window inside!
 

Richard_C

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Thanks for the Berger link, looks excellent and minimum order sensible for hobbyists.

I removed the pointer on my Axminster 1950, seemed a bit misleading. Now I rely on a SHF, standard human finger, a really versatile multi use tool which can push putty into small corners and play subbuteo as well as getting Bandsaw tension right among many other things.

I like the idea of changing screws to make blade swap quicker, why do I need 3 different sizes of hexagon keys? I could fully service my 2CV with just 2 spanners and a flat bladed screwdriver. Modern product designers have a lot to answer for.
 
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