Record #050

[Saint Simon]

Help and guidance please. I am trying to use a Record #050 to cut some beading on my current project without any great success. Even with a very light cut it's hard to push through quite soft wood and gives a rough finish. The cutter is sharp.
When I look at the set-up of the plane there is a 1.5mm difference in the distance between the main stock and sliding section skates fore and aft. The skates being further apart at the handle/rear end.
Does anyone have experience of this? is it significant or do my difficulties lie else where? If it is significant, is there a fix?
thanks
Simon

 

[AndyT]

A couple of thoughts:

If it's hard to push with a light cut and sharp iron, you may be going the wrong way of the grain. A bit like stroking a cat the wrong way - the fibres get lifted up, not cut through. This is more of a problem with a metal combi than with a woodie.

Everything should be parallel. The 050 should have a setscrew to push the sliding section against the main body. Clamp the blade in place then fiddle with the screw to get everything straight.

 

[bugbear]

I find a combination square, set to the required distance, is a great help to set the fence parallel.

I am lucky enough to have a 6" combi square which is particularly handy for this.

BugBear

 

[Paul Chapman]

Lots of good information on Alf's website, which might help http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/combihow.html

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Graham Orm]

A couple of thoughts:

If it's hard to push with a light cut and sharp iron, you may be going the wrong way of the grain. A bit like stroking a cat the wrong way - the fibres get lifted up, not cut through. This is more of a problem with a metal combi than with a woodie.

As a matter of interest Andy, why? I know nothing about combi planes but have been looking at them recently.

 

[Racers]

There is no mouth on a combi plane to limit tear out.

Pete

 

[AndyT]

Like Pete said!


Timber selection and orientation are significant skills, easily overlooked.

 

[Vann]

When I look at the set-up of the plane there is a 1.5mm difference in the distance between the main stock and sliding section skates fore and aft. The skates being further apart at the handle/rear end.

My little 043 has this problem, and it seriously effects performance. I now tighten one fence thumbscrew then "wrack" the fence until it's parallel before tightening the other.

HTH.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Saint Simon]

Thanks Vann. The problem is how to "wrack" the sliding section of the #050 to bring it parallel with the main stock. Anyone any ideas?
Simon

 

[AndyT]

Thanks Vann. The problem is how to "wrack" the sliding section of the #050 to bring it parallel with the main stock. Anyone any ideas?
Simon

Use the setscrew! Your 050 does have one, doesn't it?

 

[Saint Simon]

Sorry if I am being dense, but won't the set screw only allow me to force the skates further apart not pull them together? My problem is that the gap between the skates at the back end the plane, where the set screw is, is bigger than the gap at the front. Am I missing something?
Simon

 

[Vann]

...but won't the set screw only allow me to force the skates further apart not pull them together? My problem is that the gap between the skates at the back end the plane, where the set screw is, is bigger than the gap at the front.

I see your point.

With the 043, I can grip with two fingers (one either side of the second rod) and push with my thumb to wrack (and hopefully not wreck :shock: ) the fence - but of course the 050 is of heavier construction.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[DTR]

How about making a wooden fence lining that allows for the wracking? The fence on my 778 is out of square with the sole, so I added a wooden lining that's planed correspondingly out of square. I realise the problem here is on a different axis but the principle's the same

 

[bugbear]

How about making a wooden fence lining that allows for the wracking? The fence on my 778 is out of square with the sole, so I added a wooden lining that's planed correspondingly out of square.

Both simple and clever, =D>

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

Hang on a minute. There are three bits on a no 050 that ideally need to be parallel - the fixed section, the sliding section and the fence. Simon hasn't said he's got any problems with the fence so I don't see a need to modify it.

The sliding section does not have to be as perfectly parallel as the fence does for the plane to work. It just needs to be straight enough to not get in the way. If you are ploughing it will probably all be hidden behind the blade even if it is not straight. But when beading, the sliding section needs to be in line with the narrow fillet at the side of the bead, so there is much less margin for error.

I don't know an easy fix - you don't have any choice on where the sliding section sits on this model as it has to clamp the blade. (Unlike the 405 where it can slide under the blade and be positioned where needed. )

I misread which way round the error was - sorry - so you can't correct it with the screw. Maybe a previous owner adjusted it wrong and bent it?


My only other suggestion is to buy yourself some more planes - wooden beads are common and cheap, or if you want a better combi, the 405 is a cut above the 050.

 

[AndyT]

I've been and looked again at mine and have two more suggestions.

Are your rods straight? Try taking them out and rolling them on a flat surface or just putting one against the other. If they are bent, you can buy stock silver steel rods in the right size - see the one-stop links in the metalwork forum.

If that's not the problem and you still need to spread the front of the sliding section away from the main stock, try putting in a suitably sized wooden spacer block. If you make it slightly wedge shaped that should help. I think there's plenty of room without getting in the way. If that fixes it but you want to do different sizes of beads you could drill and tap for a front setscrew. However, there is not so much metal at the front - so be careful of weakening the plane.

 

[Saint Simon]

Thanks for that. I'll give it a try.
Simon