Record 050 rusted blades

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mu

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Hi everybody, start apologizing for my english, hope I can well explain and also hope to understand your answers :oops:

I've bought a Record 050 old but not antique (around 1960?) with its blades with some rust on it. Usually I put in vinegar for a day, but this blade have on a print with brand and measure. I am interested in using the plane and I don't think it's so old as to have a high value, but I'd like to keep the fake labels.

Now, what would you do?

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Thankyou very much! :lol:
 
If they were mine, I'd soak them and lose the labels, but... :)

Without some form of chemical rust remover I think you're looking at physical abrasives. Work up through the grits of sandpaper, emery cloth or automotive wet-and-dry. If you have a minitool (like a Dremel) you could use a small wire brush or similar to work away from the labels and get the worst of the rust off. Abrasive paper glued to small wood offcuts will give you the control to get right up against the labels. Finish off with some form of metal polish (Autosol is often recommended).

Your English was fine - hope you can understand mine :)
 
I don't think the acid will destroy the labels - you could try it on just one as an experiment.
If you really want to keep the labels, just work around them carefully with some emery paper and some light oil. Then sharpen in your usual way.
A little bit of rust away from the cutting edge won't matter in use - the wood can't see if a tool is shiny or not! In fact, a slightly rough surface can help a combination plane blade stay in the proper position. So you could just clean up the lower parts and stop at the labels.
 
You could try soaking off the labels and dry them off on some tissue paper?
Then de-rust the blades - I use Phosphoric Acid from an Agricultural Supplier (Milk Stone Remover).

Rod
 
Jenolite rust-remover is a gel, so you could coat just the working portion of a blade with it, leaving the label untouched. It washes off with water after use.

Edit: it occurs to me that I haven't actually used any Jenolite for some years, but I assume it's still a gel.
 
Scan the labels, edit the images and print fresh copies of the originals. This will allow you to clean the blades properly and fix new labels onto the blades. :ho2
 
Just to clarify - what we've been calling labels are not paper labels stuck on - they are printed (screen-printed?) onto the blades, so are fairly robust unless attacked directly with abrasives.
 
Virtually brand new sets of No.50 blades come up on Ebay quite often and being fairly light they should not cost much to ship to Italy.

I can't see very clearly but it looks that some of the cutters are quite badly rusted near the cutting edge which would mean pitting and render the cutter virtually useless no matter how much you try cleaning the surface...unless they are ground back to good steel.

Jim
 
I'd wipe them with thinned raw linseed oil, labels and all. This stops anything getting any worse. Then rub up the rusty bits with wire wool etc. Or just leave them - if they get used they get cleaned up in the process.
 
AndyT":xbpzgizp said:
Just to clarify - what we've been calling labels are not paper labels stuck on - they are printed (screen-printed?) onto the blades, so are fairly robust unless attacked directly with abrasives.


I've a set of #050 blades with paper labels.
 
Thanks all for the answers. :D

Yes, the print is applied on the iron, no paper or plastic support. Me too thought were labels, when I scratched whith fingernail to detach I realized weren't thick.
I've bought last year citric acid, but never used because I didn't had any idea of concentration for derusting, thanks for your document is really complete, I'll study.
I think I'will try one blade with vinegar and one with citric acid and let see what happen, positive thing is this kind of plane have many blade :lol:

Ciao, Leo.
 
Hi,

I use citric acid too. It's efficient.

What you could try is experiment with one blade before doing them all.
Try to clean up the print, as much as you can without damaging. Then put on 1 or 2 coats of varnish. When it's dry, then get the blade into a citric bath. The varnish should prevent the water + acid to peal or damage the print/label.

An other option, would be soak only the part of the blade that you use, letting the part with the print out of the citric bath. Just attach the blade to something. Then clean up as you can where the blade has the print.

Hope it helps.
 
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Ok, learned yesterday a good product for erase printed label from the blade, 24h vinegar :oops: Not a big problem, next attempt citric acid.
Two question about it: what percent of solution for rusted tools? Can I touch solution with hand or must use gloves?

Unfortunately I've not much time for the hobby and I'm very slow :oops:
 
I don't measure how much citric acid I put in the container - I suppose about 1 or 1.5 heaped tablespoons per litre. And it's safe to put your hands in. This is only food-grade citric acid - nothing that will maim you or dissolve the flesh :shock: I do find my hand has a distinctive smell afterwards (no, not melting flesh smell #-o )

I would not immerse the labels if I wanted to keep them, just immerse the cutting end to maybe within 10mm of the label.

I would use warm to hot water, and I would heat the cutter under running hot water immediately before I put it in the citric acid bath (just to keep the water warm a little longer). Also, I wouldn't leave a cutter in 24 hours. Just 2 or 3 hours, take it out, scrub with scouring pad; immerse in the acid another 2 - 3 hours and scrub again. Dry very well and coat with your favourite rust protective oil.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Vann.
 
Vann, I think you give me the last steps for start, thankyou very much.
 
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That is the result, two weeks for rust treating, how long will put for sharpening? :lol:

Not a good result, probably without labels it looks better, but I can always remove them in future now that I know how to do it!

Thanks to all of you, believe me, you are really precious :D
 
Ciao Leo

Would be grateful for any links to Italian woodwork sites. I have started learning Italian (yesterday) and could kill two birds with the one stone!
I spotted your http://www.legnofilia.it/ for a start.
Visiting Venice next week (floods?). Plenty to see - but any particular woodworky items to visit?
This time next year I am expecting to able to write posts like this in Italian!
 
Jacob":3rvkmuao said:
Visiting Venice next week (floods?). Plenty to see - but any particular woodworky items to visit?

Lucky you. I spent 3 months working in Italy, based in Bologna, and once it became apparent that the project deadline was assured, I spent the weekends visiting many of the local towns and cities.

Venice is marvellous - for Art and Architecture. At this time of year, the famous smell should be reduced, and the throng of tourists slightly lessened, although it never stops.

But - Venice is fully aware it's wonderful, and it knows the visitors are captive on the island. And by $DEITY, they know how to charge for everything. :(

Especially the cafés on St Marks square. Back in the days of the lire, it was easy to convince yourself you'd simply misinterpreted the number of zeros in your currency conversion - until the bill halved your wallet!

You mention floods and learning Italian - on this site they form a good combination (or use google)

It's the local tide forecast. :D

http://www.comune.venezia.it/flex/cm/pa ... agina/2104

BugBear
 
Jacob":2thdv1lp said:
Visiting Venice next week (floods?). Plenty to see - but any particular woodworky items to visit?
This time next year I am expecting to able to write posts like this in Italian!

Jacob - a few ideas - Most of the churches (many of which are free) will have some fittings worth a look. For instance, St Georgio Maggiore (which I think is one of Venice's most beautiful) has these choirstalls, which must have taken a good few hours to make:

IMG_1444.jpg


Near the Accademia, at Squero di San Trovaso, is this gondala boatyard:

IMG_1461.jpg


And near there, I spotted this tempting selection for sale!

IMG_1462.jpg


but we all have enough tools....
 

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