Rebate depth for interior 35mm doors

[The Wood Butcher]

I've had my hall dry lined and now I have to make good the trim. Obviously the drywall is about 10mm further out from the existing door frame, so I've decided to plant boards on the jambs and heads, which I'll scribe to the new wall level. This is fine as I like the look of rebated door frames rather than stop lats

My question is what is the correct depth of rebate for 35mm doors? The only reference I could find on the web is 38mm, but that sounds a bit deep to me?

Any one have an opinion?

 

[RobinBHM]

I dont suppose it is a detail that is likely to appear on the net. The vast majority of modern internal doors will be fitted into a door liner with loose stops. The stops are fitted as the last item and position is set by pushing the stop up against the closed door. Ideally the door wants to close against the stop without forcing but also a slight amount of pressure on the latch so the door wont rattle.

I assume you have the doors in place so you should be able to measure the gap, I would guess you want about 1mm less than the biggest size. The problem you may face is that the doors could be twisted, or the gap different on each jamb and head too. I suppose you could make to the biggest and plane down to suit.

 

[blackrodd]

Why not rebate the architraves, and just treat as normal and save a load of work.
Rodders

 

[lincs1963]

On a modern torus arc there isn't enough thickness in the moulding to rebate 10mm.

 

[blackrodd]

On a modern torus arc there isn't enough thickness in the moulding to rebate 10mm.

I didn't see torus architrave mentioned.
Should the OP want torus architrave then cut the plasterboard back 25, or 30 mm from the lining edge.
Rebate the rest.
Regards Rodders

 

[The Wood Butcher]

New doors going on, the ones that are on are bent and twisted, and hung by a blind man. Distance between the old frames and the new plasterboard is too large to allow me to rebate the architrave unless I use some seriously chunky trim

 

[blackrodd]

Thanks for the reply.
In that case the usual rebate into the door lining or door frame is 12mm deep A fire door was 25mm deep rebate,
This may have changed, so 36 mm x 12mm
When you do hang the new doors, make sure there IS a rattle of around 1mm to allow for paint.
It's surprising should the door and frame be both painted, how thick that adds up to, primer, undercoat and top coat.
Personally, I would advise you to fit loose door stops, after hanging, again keeping things simpler.
HTH, Regards Rodders

 

[DTR]

New doors going on, the ones that are on are bent and twisted, and hung by a blind man.

It's a small world, I think the same chap did my house....

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I push the architrave dead against the door with a cardboard sleeve from a hardpoint saw between them, this gives about the right gap for primer, undercoat and gloss. Just a few pins will do, the paint will hold it once the jobs done and you won't wreck it should you ever wish to move it again.

 

[lincs1963]

On a modern torus arc there isn't enough thickness in the moulding to rebate 10mm.

I didn't see torus architrave mentioned.
Should the OP want torus architrave then cut the plasterboard back 25, or 30 mm from the lining edge.
Rebate the rest.
Regards Rodders

I didn't see torus mentioned either, just using as an example. I could have used ogee or probably any moulding as an example, there still isn't 10mm available to rebate.
The usual fix is to plant on laths to bring the casing out to the plaster, leaving a quirk as you do with your arcs, then put the arcs on as normal. You end up with a double quirk but it looks better than trying to hide the problem.
If you let the arcs into the plasterboard itlooks a dogs breakfast, the arcs end up looking too thin and your skirtings dont fit properly.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've planted pieces on before - just make sure they are just proud of the original lining and run a half sheet sander over them. It's usually a good idea anyway (on a lining, not a frame) as it gets shot of the scars in the paintwork where the old stops were removed.

 

[blackrodd]

On a modern torus arc there isn't enough thickness in the moulding to rebate 10mm.

I didn't see torus architrave mentioned.
Should the OP want torus architrave then cut the plasterboard back 25, or 30 mm from the lining edge.
Rebate the rest.
Regards Rodders

I didn't see torus mentioned either, just using as an example. I could have used ogee or probably any moulding as an example, there still isn't 10mm available to rebate.
The usual fix is to plant on laths to bring the casing out to the plaster, leaving a quirk as you do with your arcs, then put the arcs on as normal. You end up with a double quirk but it looks better than trying to hide the problem.
If you let the arcs into the plasterboard itlooks a dogs breakfast, the arcs end up looking too thin and your skirtings dont fit properly.

Yep! that's another way of getting over it!
But TBH, far better to have identified the door and door lining replacing earlier and fixed new plumb linings,
and had the dry liner work to the new and plumb door linings, simples!
Regards Rodders