Rasp Advice

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Mikegtr

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I will use a rasp very occasionally. I have a few very old all metal rasps which I have had for many years--put together in a drawer. ('Not knowing then what I know now' syndrome about keeping tools!)

My questions are:
a) Japanese saw rasp vs standard all metal rasp. Which is better? For different uses? Which would you choose?
b) As I use one very occasionally would the cheaper all metal rasp last awhile or to buy a name make rasp?
 
when did japanese saw rasps become japanese? I ask because I have a saw rasp which must be atleast 30 years old made by c.k. from a toolbox that is clearly of the more traditional outfit ie centre brace bits, grannys tooths etc i strongly doubt the guy had a browse on workshop heaven to pick one out.
 
I will use a rasp very occasionally. I have a few very old all metal rasps which I have had for many years--put together in a drawer. ('Not knowing then what I know now' syndrome about keeping tools!)

My questions are:
a) Japanese saw rasp vs standard all metal rasp. Which is better? For different uses? Which would you choose?
b) As I use one very occasionally would the cheaper all metal rasp last awhile or to buy a name make rasp?
The Japanese saw rasp is good for controlled removal of a lot of material, less likely to clog and in some variants they have a better grip (IMO) over standard rasps.

Rasps will last as long relevant to quality over use. You can't really answer that question as its open to too many variables based on the question in this thread, needless to say it's a matter of many years as opposed to a short period in most cases. Also depends on the final work piece, if it's a quality piece of work, don't skimp and buy a good rasp however if it's hogging off work to clean up later then use what works.

I also agree with the above comments in that the Bahco rasps are a good choice, good value and last a long time. If however you want to take it up a notch look at the hand stitched rasps from WSH or perhaps the Auriou or Liogiers of this world.
 
If you only want 1 rasp, then the saw type is the one, fine on one side coarse on the other.
Shinto is the brand I have, there will be others, especially 2nd hand.
Do make a sheath for what ever you buy, it not only protects the rasp, but everything around it!

Bod
 
I think there is a degree of you get what you pay for, but at one end its questionable whether its worth it and at the cheap end be prepared to be disappointed
I have a range of makes and qualities
Auriou. very nice but too expesive
Liogier. Cheaper than Auriou and seem just as good. Havent tried one of teh saphire range but too expensive
Worhshopn heaven rasps. Good value and performance for a hand stritched rasp
Iwasaki . This is fantastic and at a sensible price around £30
Axminster own brand. Cheap and disappointing
Surform. Cheap and works OK but need to change blades as they wear. Better for rough work on soft timber

No experience of Bahco or microplane
 
I like a 4 in 1 rasp, mine is an Auriou, it has paid for itself many times over, it's a very versatile tool
 
The El Cheapo option is something like this set of 4 rasps at £21.99.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tapered-Leather-Plastic-Comfort-Massage/dp/B07JMVPMWM/
I bought a set of three (which look identical to the largest three) a few years ago - they have made half a dozen instrument necks and are still cutting fine.

The smallest rasp produces quite a decent finish, no deep gouges to sand away.

If I were rasping away weekly I'd buy something of higher quality, but for my bi-annual rasping sessions these are rather better than adequate.
 
I will use a rasp very occasionally. I have a few very old all metal rasps which I have had for many years--put together in a drawer. ('Not knowing then what I know now' syndrome about keeping tools!)

My questions are:
a) Japanese saw rasp vs standard all metal rasp. Which is better? For different uses? Which would you choose?
b) As I use one very occasionally would the cheaper all metal rasp last awhile or to buy a name make rasp?

Find some lower cost rasps that are hand stitched, even if their shape is not completely ideal for you. Follow them with files and then scrape or sand.

If you use rasps occasionally, you don't need shinto style rasps and you don't need french rasps.

I use rasps on guitars and tool handles and have never had anything more expensive than $38 or something for a bent saw handle rasp. Most of the rest of my rasps were not more than $15. Double cut coarse metal or wood files do the job of cleaning up before sanding just fine.
 

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by the way, you didn't ask, but I posted pictures of guitar necks elsewhere and someone asked what rasp I was using to get the necks to be straight without any lumpy bits. I don't know if this kind of thing comes up in furniture that's not turned, but establishing a straight line on a curved surface is better done with something like a nicholson super shear (not a vixen and not a rasp) than anything else. A super shear gives you a flat surface to make diagonals - it may not be intuitive, but if you take advantage of a diagonal on a flat file, you can make very straight curved surfaces pretty easily.

I think it gets complicated to make some things on power tools and a guitar neck like that is one of them. And it doesn't take long to make by hand. I can't think of anything that an expensive rasp would do better, but I did use the gramercy sawhandle maker's rasp around the transitions before scraping and sanding.

when auriou started being sold, it was just pounded by bloggers and chris schwartz types as being must buy tools, but an older rasp seller here who sold mostly to pros gave advice before that to do what I mentioned, use a rasp to establish basic shape and then finish up with files for the most part and limit the use of expensive rasps for bulk work. the idea that the average hobby woodworker still struggling to do joinery efficiently should go out and dump $500-$1000 on rasps was really dumb.

Far different thing if you spend out of want and not need - I do that all the time. Pleasure spending. It's nice if someone making things draws the line where that is and tells people, but it didn't happen often back then, and I guess it really doesn't now, either. I just last week saw the blue spruce "butt chisels" for the first time and it has to be one of the more offensive offerings that I've seen in quite some time. I'm sure they'll be flogged by gurus.
 

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