I want to make a quick and simple bench/table for my new (to me) radial arm saw. It is a dewalt powershop DW125 and does not have any legs. Similar model on here http://www.bramer.nl/cms/index.php/nl/g ... aagkapzaag 2nd image down.
My plan is to use something like 4x2 CLS, or 4x2 sawn I suppose, but the cls will be dry at the Arnold Lavers and should be a bit nicer on the hands. I know that I should probably do a traditional M & T joints, but in the interests of time and effort, I am wondering whether either a dowel joint, or a loose tennon joint would do the job just as well. These would be much quicker to produce, either with a forstner bit for the dowels, or a router and template for the latter. I could embed some threaded rod as an alternative and wind the joint up tight with some nuts and washers...
For the top of this stand, I have an old piece of worktop. Then the saw will sit on that, on its metal table/base thing and the ultimate top will be a half sheet lengthways of 18mm mdf, giving a table of 8x2, and probably about a foot either end of this before I hit the garage walls. I am wondering whether to put the saw off centre, so that I have say 6 or 7ft of the table to the left hand side and very little to the right. It would enable me to cross cut longer boards. I have no plans to use the saw for ripping. I will make a couple of supports to take the ends of the mdf that are not supported by the main stand. The manual suggests a maximum crosscut thickness of 70mm at 90 degrees (10” blade). Do I lose 18mm of that because of the top thickness? Do I therefore want to minimise this and use hardboard over the fully supported metal bit for example?
Thanks
Mark
My plan is to use something like 4x2 CLS, or 4x2 sawn I suppose, but the cls will be dry at the Arnold Lavers and should be a bit nicer on the hands. I know that I should probably do a traditional M & T joints, but in the interests of time and effort, I am wondering whether either a dowel joint, or a loose tennon joint would do the job just as well. These would be much quicker to produce, either with a forstner bit for the dowels, or a router and template for the latter. I could embed some threaded rod as an alternative and wind the joint up tight with some nuts and washers...
For the top of this stand, I have an old piece of worktop. Then the saw will sit on that, on its metal table/base thing and the ultimate top will be a half sheet lengthways of 18mm mdf, giving a table of 8x2, and probably about a foot either end of this before I hit the garage walls. I am wondering whether to put the saw off centre, so that I have say 6 or 7ft of the table to the left hand side and very little to the right. It would enable me to cross cut longer boards. I have no plans to use the saw for ripping. I will make a couple of supports to take the ends of the mdf that are not supported by the main stand. The manual suggests a maximum crosscut thickness of 70mm at 90 degrees (10” blade). Do I lose 18mm of that because of the top thickness? Do I therefore want to minimise this and use hardboard over the fully supported metal bit for example?
Thanks
Mark