JanetsBears
Established Member
Hi,
I'm new to this scroll saw stuff so would appreciate any hints and tips that anybody can throw my way, particularly in relation to a few specific questions I have...
1. Beginner's Drift
I've done quite a lot of these since getting my scroll saw as they seem to be pretty good practice and I've left the waste in the picture to make it easier to see the lines and cut. I am improving, but still not too brilliant when it comes to following lines. Most have been cut from a decent quality pine (if there is such a thing!) and it's clear that most of my problems are on the transition between cutting along the grain of the wood and cutting across the grain. I tend to find the project almost pushes itself past the blade as it starts cutting across the grain. I know the blade I was using (Pegas 5 skip/reverse in this case) cuts better across the grain so I try to make an effort to slow down a bit as I turn across the grain but are there any tips anybody can give on techniques to improve my line following? The next photo shows it popped out, tape removed and sat next to a bear made from some of our granddaughter's old baby clothes, all ready for my wife to decorate - she's got a big list of words she wants cutting, so I have plenty of practice ahead of me!
2. Blade Life
How long should a blade last? I realise it's a 'piece of string' type of question, but I was expecting to break more than I have. I broke 3 in the first week but none in the month following, but I do believe I've worn a couple out. I'm guessing that the lack of broken blades is a lot to do with the fact that I'm new to this and cutting at a slow speed while I learn the skills required. I've also been cutting mainly pine and plywood which aren't particularly hard on blades normally, but I've done a few bits with oak. I've found the oak takes a bit more 'pushing' but it doesn't seem to drift as much as softer pine, particularly when cutting along the grain. I put a new blade in when I started cutting the item in the next photo and by the time I'd finished, the blade did seem quite blunt. Blades aren't expensive so I think in future I may just swap the blade out every n minutes when I work out what 'n' should be for the type of wood I'm cutting.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give,
Chris
I'm new to this scroll saw stuff so would appreciate any hints and tips that anybody can throw my way, particularly in relation to a few specific questions I have...
1. Beginner's Drift
I've done quite a lot of these since getting my scroll saw as they seem to be pretty good practice and I've left the waste in the picture to make it easier to see the lines and cut. I am improving, but still not too brilliant when it comes to following lines. Most have been cut from a decent quality pine (if there is such a thing!) and it's clear that most of my problems are on the transition between cutting along the grain of the wood and cutting across the grain. I tend to find the project almost pushes itself past the blade as it starts cutting across the grain. I know the blade I was using (Pegas 5 skip/reverse in this case) cuts better across the grain so I try to make an effort to slow down a bit as I turn across the grain but are there any tips anybody can give on techniques to improve my line following? The next photo shows it popped out, tape removed and sat next to a bear made from some of our granddaughter's old baby clothes, all ready for my wife to decorate - she's got a big list of words she wants cutting, so I have plenty of practice ahead of me!
2. Blade Life
How long should a blade last? I realise it's a 'piece of string' type of question, but I was expecting to break more than I have. I broke 3 in the first week but none in the month following, but I do believe I've worn a couple out. I'm guessing that the lack of broken blades is a lot to do with the fact that I'm new to this and cutting at a slow speed while I learn the skills required. I've also been cutting mainly pine and plywood which aren't particularly hard on blades normally, but I've done a few bits with oak. I've found the oak takes a bit more 'pushing' but it doesn't seem to drift as much as softer pine, particularly when cutting along the grain. I put a new blade in when I started cutting the item in the next photo and by the time I'd finished, the blade did seem quite blunt. Blades aren't expensive so I think in future I may just swap the blade out every n minutes when I work out what 'n' should be for the type of wood I'm cutting.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give,
Chris