Question about bike brakes

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Tris

Tris

What am I doing here?
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Moreton in marsh
As I know there are many keen cyclists here I hope someone can provide some ideas.

Some time ago my wife bought a 1980s Raleigh ladies town bike. I'm giving it a bit of an overhaul but have hit a problem with what we laughingly call the brakes. The original callipers are flimsy pressed steel and flex massively when applied. The reach on the arms is about 95mm and try as I might I cannot find anything with that sort of reach in an alloy fork.

Does anyone know of a brand that might fit? Or a work around that doesn't require permanently removing the mudguards?

Thanks in advance

Tris
 
Tris said:
As I know there are many keen cyclists here I hope someone can provide some ideas.

Some time ago my wife bought a 1980s Raleigh ladies town bike. I'm giving it a bit of an overhaul but have hit a problem with what we laughingly call the brakes. The original callipers are flimsy pressed steel and flex massively when applied. The reach on the arms is about 95mm and try as I might I cannot find anything with that sort of reach in an alloy fork.

Does anyone know of a brand that might fit? Or a work around that doesn't require permanently removing the mudguards?

Thanks in advance

Tris
Click to expand...
Perhaps just some good quality brake blocks will help. Alternatively you could replace the wheels, forks, frame and levers and fit disks as suggested by Rorschach
 
FWIW I don't like disc brakes, yes they are much more effective for braking, and less troubled by mud and wet etc but they are not without their drawbacks compared to simple caliper brakes.

Not that it makes much difference to me at the moment, I can't remember the last time we got the bikes out lol!
 
Perhaps posting a picture of more of the brakes fitted might help

I have various Raleighs over the years and the brakes have always been quite solid so I wonder what type you have
 
What you have is a typical Raleigh leisure / commuter bike of that era... model Wayfarer maybe, or Transit? The brakes are perfectly adequate when set up correctly but can be improved by better brake blocks. I suspect the wheels, if original, have steel rims (26" x 1 3/8") so blocks made for steel rims should really help... some are faced with leather. Alloy forks? As original the forks would be steel. To be honest I do not know if you could fit alloy forks, maybe you could if you get the spec right for head tube etc. My guess is that the bike is worth maybe £40 - £60 maybe more if in excellent condition and with a 3spd hub. Is it worth trying to put alloys on it? ... wheel size could be a problem as well.
Check the brake components; spacing washers can wear, bolt holes can wear but overall these brakes were efficient for what they were designed for.
I do not think trying to put disc brakes on it would be possible or, if possible, economic. You may find a s/h hub with a back pedal brake but doubt if it is worth looking; and if you have 3 speed now, you would lose it.
Cheers, Phil
 
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If it has the standard Raleigh chrome steel brakes of that era then whilst they aren't the greatest they should work ok. You say the calipers themselves flex? I find that hard to believe as they are quite thick steel. I think what you are probably seeing is the two parts of the caliper moving relative to one another, or to the fork This is because the bolt through the middle is incorrectly adjusted. You need to adjust the bolt so it is just loose enough to allow the two parts to move freely, but no more. If it's too loose then under braking you will see the whole thing rock to and fro, which is probably what you are referring to. Properly adjusted and with the correct blocks they should be fine.
 
Thank you for all the replies and advice, I should have typed calliper not fork which some of you have rightly queried.
I will try to get a couple of photos later. The rims are indeed steel, and quite polished. The first thing I did was to put new brake blocks on, rubber not leather, and clean the rim surface. When the brakes are applied the blocks move forward by about 10mm or so. I think the next step will be to strip down the calliper and check the mounting holes for wear.
As was said, the bike isn't worth a lot, if the mounting holes are out or round then it's probably scrap, if not I'm tempted by the textro(?) brakes and some better pads.

Thanks again
Tris
 
I can't remember ever seeing the forks wearing, but wonder if your movement problem is missing or wrong fitted washers/spacers? (on the bolt that passes through the forks)

There is usually a shaped (curved) spacer either side of the forks, if one or other is missing or fitted wrongly it would give the movement you describe

Tris said:
Thank you for all the replies and advice, I should have typed calliper not fork which some of you have rightly queried.
I will try to get a couple of photos later. The rims are indeed steel, and quite polished. The first thing I did was to put new brake blocks on, rubber not leather, and clean the rim surface. When the brakes are applied the blocks move forward by about 10mm or so. I think the next step will be to strip down the calliper and check the mounting holes for wear.
As was said, the bike isn't worth a lot, if the mounting holes are out or round then it's probably scrap, if not I'm tempted by the textro(?) brakes and some better pads.

Thanks again
Tris
Click to expand...
 
I managed to strip down the callipers yesterday and found that two washers were a soft aluminium alloy that had worn through. This meant the arms were able to slide about, giving the movement I had found before. Quick clean and reassemble with new washers. Now they grip with minimal movement but it seems the cable to the rear brake has seen better days. I'll replace the cables and fit some better brake blocks and hopefully it will give an old bike a few more years.
 
If you're at Moreton-in-Marsh you could go into Cotswold Cycles (in the estate oposite the Fire Service College entrance) for some advice (not really their bag but the mechanic is/was a helpful chap - OR call in at the Cyclcists fighting Cancer shop on the A3400 at Alderminster as they refurbish old bikes (with parts harvested from scrap machines) - something like the Tektro brakes or Alhonga dual-pivot if you can find them are a good replacement - and as suggested if you have steel wheels they will provide poor braking when wet compared with alloy.

I used to manage a bike shop - if I can help give me a PM (I'm at Stratford-upon-Avon and still doing some bike repairs and servicing)
 
Thank you, Cotswold cycles have been very helpful on advice in the past, but as you say this wouldn't usually be their thing.
I'd forgotten about the CfC shop, I could drop off a couple of my daughter's outgrown bikes at the same time.
 
artie said:
I bought a bike a few years ago and went for disc brakes. I was really disappointed, they were terrible.
Click to expand...

They have their pro's and con's. They are great for mountain bikes used on rough muddy ground for example.
 

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