PVA - Is there really that much of a difference?

[Monkey Mark]

Over the I have used a variety of different pva wood glues. Admittedly I am a novice, but the main difference I have found is setting time and price rather than strength.
For you guys, who will likely use much much more than I do, what are your thoughts on wood glues and which do you prefer?

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Apart from the dishwater supplied with flat pack furniture, which should be discarded immediately, most seem to do the job. I use Everbuild D4 which is 100% waterproof. It's way cheaper than Titebond and Resin W. Just be aware of the difference between "waterproof" and "water resistant" (and weather resistant).

 

[gidon]

I'm sure if you glue something and clamp it - most PVAs work the same. (You'll need to check whether you need the joint water resistant or not).

But open times and "grab" vary. The Titebond stuff is not that expensive and having tried lots of brands I always come back to it! It grabs well - ie doesn't slip and slide all over the place. And it goes off pretty quickly which is generally what I want unless I'm doing a big glue-up.

Cheers

Gidon

 

[custard]

In a commercial workshop the cramping up routines are well rehearsed and time is money...so PVA is very popular. PVA glued pieces can be removed from the cramps in 20 or 30 minutes and not long after that will stand a little light working.

Many hobbyists follow the pros and therefore use PVA, but that's not always the best choice. Titebond for example can be awful "grabby", if a tenon is a touch tight it may well grab before it's properly seated, and you might not then be able to fully close up the joint. Or it might take you a couple of minutes to sort out your cramps and cramping pads if you're working single handed, PVA doesn't really give you that time.

In a lot of cases hobbyists might be better off with something like Cascamite. Okay, it's a faff to mix it up, but once that's done you've got all the open time you could want, it's a gap filling adhesive so it can spare your blushes if you've not served a seven year apprenticeship, and it cleans up perfectly with hot water so you won't have the problem of squeeze out messing up your finish.

Good luck!

 

[Matt@]

interesting thread! I like PVA as it gives when set but it doesnt gap fill. Cascamite sets rock hard and is either stuck or it aint. I hate the fact that cascamite cannot be cleaned off when set as opposed to scotch or PVA. As far as different qualities of PVA are concerned, I've always bought green Resin W, dont like the exterior one. For me it would strength of joint that is upmost importance and would love to know of any PVA stronger than ResinW (evostick)

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Strength wise I wouldn't have thought there was a toss up of difference between any decent brand.

 

[custard]

Strength wise I wouldn't have thought there was a toss up of difference between any decent brand.

+1

Animal hide glue exceeds the "stronger than the wood itself!" test that all the manufacturers bang on about like it's something special. Bond strength is the least important factor in choosing a glue.

 

[Matt@]

Strength wise I wouldn't have thought there was a toss up of difference between any decent brand.

Bond strength is the least important factor in choosing a glue.

I'm confused by this statement - why would it be least important factor?

 

[dzj]

Cramping pressure is also a variable when considering PVA glue.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Strength wise I wouldn't have thought there was a toss up of difference between any decent brand.

Bond strength is the least important factor in choosing a glue.

I'm confused by this statement - why would it be least important factor?

Because any reputable brand (excluding the junk supplied with flat packs, which is the pits) is going to be strong enough - some might be stronger than others, but it's largely irrelevant. Other factors have more influence on choice.

 

[cgarry]

In a commercial workshop the cramping up routines are well rehearsed and time is money...so PVA is very popular. PVA glued pieces can be removed from the cramps in 20 or 30 minutes and not long after that will stand a little light working.

Many hobbyists follow the pros and therefore use PVA, but that's not always the best choice. Titebond for example can be awful "grabby", if a tenon is a touch tight it may well grab before it's properly seated, and you might not then be able to fully close up the joint. Or it might take you a couple of minutes to sort out your cramps and cramping pads if you're working single handed, PVA doesn't really give you that time.

In a lot of cases hobbyists might be better off with something like Cascamite. Okay, it's a faff to mix it up, but once that's done you've got all the open time you could want, it's a gap filling adhesive so it can spare your blushes if you've not served a seven year apprenticeship, and it cleans up perfectly with hot water so you won't have the problem of squeeze out messing up your finish.

Good luck!

That is useful information for me.

I am a bit slow at the assembly and clamping stage and find it is be a bit pointless checking that everything is square because the PVA has started to set and it is impossible to adjust anyway.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

If you mist the surfaces with water (not too heavily) before assembly, you can retard the PVA (or cascamite) by a few minutes. It just stops the moisture being drawn out quite so quickly - handy in the summer or with long assembly times. It's a good idea with PU anyway.