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Push sticks for table saws....?

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Davidf

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Hi

Yes, I know it should be possible to make these myself but I wonder if anyone in this country does a line in them?

I ve got a link to possibles in America but uK would be better.

Can anyone help?



TIA


David
 

Jacob

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Yebbut plastic are not good. If they catch they shatter and throw bits all over the place. Better to copy the pattern in 1/2" ply or similar, and a lot cheaper.
 

Davidf

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Jacob":2x8r92lm said:
Yebbut plastic are not good. If they catch they shatter and throw bits all over the place. Better to copy the pattern in 1/2" ply or similar, and a lot cheaper.
8) 8)
 

Stormer1940

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Jacob":14k09ro8 said:
Yebbut plastic are not good. If they catch they shatter and throw bits all over the place. Better to copy the pattern in 1/2" ply or similar, and a lot cheaper.
Thats how I would do it as well. I made a couple from softwood by drawing around an existing and then cutting to shape on bandsaw...
 

Grahamshed

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SWMBO says I spend so long making things for the workshop that I never have time to actually make anything. (hammer)
 

Steve Maskery

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Remember to make them with a comfortable handle. The nicer they are to use, the more you will want to use them and the less likely you are not to bother "just this once".
S
 

Blister

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Jacob":n10r01oq said:
Yebbut plastic are not good. If they catch they shatter and throw bits all over the place. Better to copy the pattern in 1/2" ply or similar, and a lot cheaper.


So you buy a plastic one to use as a plan

Then buy a sheet of 1/2 ply to make a wooden one

And that works out a lot cheaper :? :?:

Give me some time to think about that :mrgreen:
 

Steve Maskery

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Personally I prefer the American "boot" style. With a notch at the front and a heel at the back, I can exert downward pressure on the workpiece as well as push it forward.
S
 

mbartlett99

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Grahamshed":2nadifjy said:
SWMBO says I spend so long making things for the workshop that I never have time to actually make anything. (hammer)


Errrr, isn't that the whole point of all this ... or am I missing something?
 

SurreyHills

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Do a Google search for push stick plans. If you click on the images quite a few have scale drawings you can use as a template. I make a few at a time (using different thicknesses to cater for narrow stock)- cut on the bandsaw and shaped with a rasp/file to make them comfortable to hold. The ones I use are:

http://www.grampasworkshop.net/push stick.PDF - favourtite one and use it all the time
http://media.ptg-online.com/media/dm/OwnersManuals/20031020153937_En912859-10-20-03.pdf - it's a manual for a Delta saw fence with a scale plan for a push stick at the back
 

Steve Maskery

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I should point out that HSE regs state that a push stick should be 450mm long, so that one of Ganpa's is too short. Plus, if you push only with the heel, one's hand is directly over the blade by the end of the cut. A notch at the front solves that.
 

Jacob

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Blister":2lz793s4 said:
Jacob":2lz793s4 said:
Yebbut plastic are not good. If they catch they shatter and throw bits all over the place. Better to copy the pattern in 1/2" ply or similar, and a lot cheaper.


So you buy a plastic one to use as a plan

Then buy a sheet of 1/2 ply to make a wooden one

And that works out a lot cheaper :? :?:

Give me some time to think about that :mrgreen:
:roll: Have you worked it out yet?
OK I'll explain. No need to buy the axi one, or a new sheet of ply, you just draw a rough copy freehand on a piece of scrap ply, piece of pallet wood, or anything. It's not rocket science.
Or if this is beyond you you follow Andy's link to the delta saw book where there is a good example.
 

Jacob

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Steve Maskery":1v18j0ey said:
I should point out that HSE regs state that a push stick should be 450mm long, so that one of Ganpa's is too short. Plus, if you push only with the heel, one's hand is directly over the blade by the end of the cut. A notch at the front solves that.
Yes I wouldn't be happy with that one - too near the cut.
The universal pattern as used by Axminster is much safer IMHO and even better if you have two of them. They become second nature after a bit and you feel uneasy without them.
 

thomvic

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Steve Maskery":1if1dent said:
I should point out that HSE regs state that a push stick should be 450mm long, so that one of Ganpa's is too short. Plus, if you push only with the heel, one's hand is directly over the blade by the end of the cut. A notch at the front solves that.
Undoubtedly good advice Steve but not an "HSE reg." It is only referred to in a Safe Working Practice document therefore adisory not compulsory - even in the workplace. You would though be considered negligent if an accident occurred through not following the advice.

Richard
 

Steve Maskery

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Jacob":1z1vvkb3 said:
Or... you follow Andy's link to the delta saw book where there is a good example.
I disagree, that is a very poor example. Apart from the fact that the grid is very unhelpful indeed as is does not align with the length (and who is going to cut out a long narrow pushstick out of a square piece of board?), the example shown there is far too short. 450mm please.

The idea is that even with a 6" handle, your hand never gets closer than 12". It's no good relying on the Yanks for safety advice.

Richard - yes, OK. How about "Best Practice" then?
S
 

Jacob

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Steve Maskery":3n6m0gz9 said:
Jacob":3n6m0gz9 said:
Or... you follow Andy's link to the delta saw book where there is a good example.
I disagree, that is a very poor example. Apart from the fact that the grid is very unhelpful indeed as is does not align with the length (and who is going to cut out a long narrow pushstick out of a square piece of board?),
I think the grid is to help you draw out the pattern, which you can then lay on the wood however you choose
the example shown there is far too short. 450mm please.

The idea is that even with a 6" handle, your hand never gets closer than 12". It's no good relying on the Yanks for safety advice.

Richard - yes, OK. How about "Best Practice" then?
S
Yes it is a bit short but the shape's OK.
 

Allylearm

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Don't like plastic, they sit on my new supplied machines, and that is where they remain. I have found like everything else in woodworking, you can get as many thoughts on everything you will ever do or want to do, you work out what suits you best or is as hand at the time.

I prefer myself birdsmouth cuts to push the timber, I also like to combine a pusher on the end or flat surface to keep timber against the fence for example. I also use alot of spring fences on my spindle moulder. The important bit is it keeps your hands and fingers away from blades/cutters. Stay in the habit of using sticks when ever you push wood through. Its a habit that will save you a digit and feeling so stupid after it happens.
 

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