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Matt Estlea

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22 Jul 2019
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Hi all,

I'm new to this forum and metalworking in general so great to meet you all. Been flicking through the past couple of days and found a lot of valuable information on all sorts of things so cheers for that.

I'm currently in the process of prototyping some parts but having trouble working out the order in which to do things. If anyone has any pointers for an absolute newbie it would be greatly appreciated!

These are the parts I'm making. On the left is the main component which will be glued into a wood blank on the 6mm end. The other end will have a ferrule (Pictured right) glued on top. The ferrule is slightly longer than the shaft and will be flush at the front resulting in a overhang at the back thus creating an undercut that will sit tight against the wood blank.

There is also a 0.6mm slot cut through the centre and a hole drilled through at 90 degrees to the slot. This goes through one side of the ferrule and all the way through the internal shaft. You may be lost by now so here is a render of the assembled component.

I have since added some grooves to aid the bond of the epoxy I'm using as I had a few that slipped after assembly.

As I said, the problem I'm having is the order of operations. The main issue is breakout within the slot when I drill through. This slot is cut to a very tight tolerance to the blade that is due to be inserted. So any swarf left inside will prevent it from bottoming out.

Drilling Hole After Assembly
To ensure the hole on the ferrule and shaft line up, I have been drilling the hole after assembly. This however creates breakout within the slot and I am unable to clean it out due to the ferrule being glued in place.

Drilling Hole Before Slitting
Drilling the hole before slitting and assembly is an option. I could drill the shaft and the ferrule independently and then try to align them when gluing. The problems I see with this is getting that alignment spot on and also preventing glue seeping into the hole.

This hole is made to fit an M5 grub screw which will clamp the blade in place. The other problem I'm having with debris in the slot is not only breakout from the drill, but swarf from the tap when cutting this thread.

I'm currently using 303 stainless steel for the internal shaft with a variety of materials for the ferrule (Copper, Brass, 303, Bronze etc) and using Araldyte Rapid as the adhesive.

Like I said, complete newbie at this whole thing so if anyone has any guidance on the process they would take when making these components, the glue they would use, and if they would adapt the design, please let me know. I'll obviously be adding to this thread over time and keeping you updated with how I'm getting on.

(I've attached an file of all 3 images in case the ones within this post don't load.


  • Overview.jpg
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Camberwell Carrot
11 Dec 2017
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Hi Matt, welcome to the forum.

Hey everyone, it's Matt Estlea off of the youtube!

I'm following your dovetail box videos, very good so far.


Greatest Of All Time
29 Jul 2018
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Put a 0.6mm sheet in there when you drill it, should eliminate the burr build up much like how when putting a piece of wood behind the one you're drilling eliminates blow-out/spelching. Once the hole is drilled and tapped you should be able to pull out the piece of sheet by putting it in a vice and tugging on it which will pull out any burrs that are present.

Unless the ferrule has to be removable, try for a press/interference fit, it would be far better than a loosely glued ferrule. Araldite is about the best glue you can get for that kind of job though, unless you count soldering as gluing :lol:

Keep up with the videos, they're good! :wink:

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