Problems with my Ferm lathe

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Anonymous

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Hi
I bought my ferm lathe about a year ago but have only just set it up. I have a couple of problems with it and would be grateful for any advice.
I cant get the drive centre to release from the head stock, I've followed the manufacturers instructions and tapped it from behind using a 6mm bit of dowel but all it did was split the dowel.
Also I think the on/off switch is duff. It was working well then switched itself off, and now it will only run if the on switch is held in which is a bit frustrating. Does anyone know where I can buy a new switch other than from Ferm themselves as that is proving to be a challenge
Cheers
 
Hi Rach Dry,

Welcome to the forum. :D

I don't have a wood turning lathe but if the headstock centre is like on the metal turning lathes I have had its on a morse taper, try using a metal bar instead of a dowel, it may need a thump with quite a large hammer, I would wrap a large rag over the centre so it does not fly out and spike something. :shock:

It sounds like the switch is a nought volt release (NVR) switch, these drop out if the power is removed to stop the machine starting if it is just unpluged and then pluged in again. I would check to see if the switch box has started to fill with saw dust, it uses a second set of contacts to power a coil that holds the switch in the on position, saw dust in these stops it staying on. :( If you have a compressor, carefully blow any dust out.
 
Welcome to the forum Rach Dry, regarding the headstock centre, when you do manage to release it ensure that any rust marks are removed with fine abrasive and keep it and the bore wiped with an oily rag. Morse taper components can 'rust together' if left in situ due to hand perspiration (acidic) and if damp timber is worked then a wipe of the bore of the headstock and tailstock with a lightly oiled rag on a dowel is a wise precaution.
 
CHJ":rjdfal0c said:
Welcome to the forum Rach Dry, regarding the headstock centre, when you do manage to release it ensure that any rust marks are removed with fine abrasive and keep it and the bore wiped with an oily rag. Morse taper components can 'rust together' if left in situ due to hand perspiration (acidic) and if damp timber is worked then a wipe of the bore of the headstock and tailstock with a lightly oiled rag on a dowel is a wise precaution.
Thanks for the tips, I will defiantly follow them once i've managed to get the pipper out. Very impressed by your bowls!! Cheers
 
Hi Rach dry

Check out Axminster's website / catalogue they have nvr switches

Brute force and ignorance can often free stuck morse tapers :lol:
 
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