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pedder

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One of the question I'm asked very often is how I set saws. Funily setting is the first thing people mention when I tell them I make saws.

"Yes, I make saws."
"Really? You have to set the teeth then?"

I do most of my setting with old eclipse 77 or a new Somax for fine teeth. For fine teeth, you can file or grind the hammer part smaller, but that is not the theme of this entry.

The main problem with the somax and the Eclips is the helical anvil. My somax anvil was to soft, too:



So I asked Gerd Fritsche to make me new anvils of hardened steel:



File a little flat is all you need.



Ready to go. Now I can set 0.03mm per side.



Cheers
Pedder
 

LuptonM

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I heard if you over bent the teeth and placed paper either side of saw blade in a vice you could get an even set. Think this is a Mike Wensloff (or whatever he's called) trick
 

Paul Chapman

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Harbo":3ltn0mix said:
Thanks Paul, that's one powerful vice he has there?
Yes, I think that particular vice is well suited to the job. I don't think any old vice would necessarily do.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 

pedder

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I didn't try that, because i don't have such a nice big mechanical vise and I don't get the theorie behind. If paper doesn't compress, I have three layers in the vise paper - saw blade - paper. Where is the room for the set?

I believe it works, because Mike won't do it otherwise, but I don't understand how.

Cheers Pedder
 

LuptonM

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The teeth are supposed to rip through the paper so the teeth are pushed inwards till they stick out the same thickness of the paper
 

Paul Chapman

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pedder":2z14qkvi said:
I don't get the theorie behind. If paper doesn't compress, I have three layers in the vise paper - saw blade - paper. Where is the room for the set?
The set is equal to the thickness of the paper and can be varied by using different thickness paper (or several sheets). The teeth break through the paper, giving room for the set.

Cheers :wink:

Paul
 

xy mosian

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I had a look at the video and it is certainly impressively quick. However it must rely on their being a greater than required set to start with. If this set is a direct result of filing then this, filing, must take place from alternate sides of the blade. If this extra set is gained by the use of a saw set, then surely it would make sense to set it correctly in the first place.

Pedder, that is a very nice solution, thanks. As I don't have access to anyone with machining facilities I think I'll turn the anvil around.

xy
 

pedder

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Hi XY,

you're the second who has this idea. Now I feel like an silly person. But I can allways say, the anvils are just to replace the soft metal on the Somax. :oops:

Regarding the recompressing method, I've still some doubts about the rationale, but it sure works.

Cheers
Pedder
 

xy mosian

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Pedder, with the number of saws you sharpen, you will surely need the hardened anvils. For me I probably sharpen less than five, or six, saws a year so I think the softer anvils will work for some time. Now how to file a small chamfer, or more exactly how to measure the amount of set it will give? Perhaps use it on a saw and measure the result :oops: ?

xy
 

pedder

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xy mosian":321iut4m said:
use it on a saw and measure the result :oops: ?

xy
That's what I did. I counted the filestroke with the diamond file and the strokes on the sand paper and took the set it gave. I will add a few more flats to this anvill with more file strokes.

My Goal was to have a reliable saw set for the small saw teeth like 19 tpi.

Cheers
Pedder
 

xy mosian

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Thanks pedder. May I assume that you just eyeballed the angle? No, silly me, the chamfer break from the flat of the anvil is determined by the position the saw set places the root of the saw tooth. That's how some saw sets achieve adjustability, move the saw with respect to the edge of the anvil. I think it's all becoming less foggy. :)

xy
 
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